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Sheelba
Trad climber
Bristol
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Me and my partner are both British climbers and are thinking of going travelling next year and I'd like to go back to patagonia. I've only done trekking their though previously and this time would like to do some climbing. I'm aware of all the very hard climbing there but was wondering if there were easier routes to go at. Looking for:
Trad routes up to about 5.10
Sport up to about 6b
Alpine routes up to about AD
mixed or ice up to about grade 4
or more technical trekking routes
Probably thinking more northern Patagonia, looking at Cochomo in particular, but open to suggestions.
Thanks
Sam
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 24, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
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Frey is probably a better choice for you than Cochomo.. Shorter climbs with lot's in your range and better weather. Cochomo has salt water at it's door which doesn't bode well for dry conditions.
Northern Patagonia.....read Aysen has numerous moderate still unclimbed peaks. IF you can find out how to get to them.
Chamonix Patagonia.....the Fitzroy Massif and the Torres del Paine have super technical climbing with well groomed approaches.
Undiscovered Patagonia.....Aysen has lesser peaks but you're man/womanhood will be sorely tested getting to them.
Most on this forum, I fear, will travel the sanitized path.
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Sheelba
Trad climber
Bristol
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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Thanks, is that the patagonia vertical guidebook mentioned above or a different one?
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Feb 25, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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The guidebook I linked is Rolo's new guide to Frey. He has another guide "Macizo de El Chalten". You can buy them in Argentina (there is a list of places on the link) or buy them on line and he will mail them to you.
Cheers
Tim
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Michael Fascinan
climber
Chamonix, france
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Feb 25, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
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seriously comparing Patagonia to Chamonix is a stretch by even the most liberal of poetic licenses.....it rather comes off sounding as a cry for attention...sorta like that adorable american singer girl Miley Cyrus.
Rolo's guides are quite excellent resources.
Good luck, very magical place in any event.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
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Patagonia and Chamonix have opposite seasons, so if you like climbing in the summer and have time, you can do both....
If only one trip/season per year, then the weather factor is big.
Especially if you are not ready for Fitzroy / Cerro Torre / Torres del Paine.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 25, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
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Michael....don't need attention.....do you look like Miley? It's all relative....compared to the way it used to be and compared to more remote regions El Chalten and the Torres del Paine are moving in that direction although, admittedly, they have a lot of catching up to do.
Didn't say the climbing isn't great....I have a few FA's there that would indicate I like the climbing.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Feb 25, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
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Sewellymon:
I have a number of friends who I think are guiding in El Chalten right now. I can try to get hold of someone on FB tomorrow and see what they say. There are some nice and easy 5th class routes to do in the area. If your newphew was more interested in climbing lots of quality technical rock in a pretty mountain setting, then Frey is great (except I see he's climbing alpine 5.8 so maybe that's not what he's looking for). If he wants to experience a very unique and historic mountain zone and maybe summit an easy peak with a guide, El Chalten might be the place to go.
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Feb 25, 2015 - 06:41pm PT
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This thread may be the greatest thing I've seen all day. It's climbing related and someone compared Donini to Miley Cyrus with a straight face. What more could someone ask for? Maybe Bridwell can be Taylor Swift and they can have a spat on twitter?
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Michael Fascinan
climber
Chamonix, france
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Feb 27, 2015 - 04:46am PT
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Salut Jim-
Michael....don't need attention....
Ah, pardon- I guess there is a different reason then for the comparison?
.do you look like Miley?
You are a fan yes..?
Well no one before has ever told me that I do....but no one told me before they thought chamonix and patagonia seemed the same either, so maybe for you I do...!!!
It's all relative....compared to the way it used to be and compared to more remote regions El Chalten and the Torres del Paine are moving in that direction although, admittedly, they have a lot of catching up to do.
A lot being a bit of understatement..... Change is constant and inevitable.
What part of climbing or humans doesn't evolve and change..? Pretty sad if time was frozen into a random decade regardless how much one delighted in it.
Didn't say the climbing isn't great....I have a few FA's there that would indicate I like the climbing.
And surely you don't like them less because the area has changed....but this was about your observation that patagonia was like Chamonix.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:04am PT
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Michael....just back in Ouray from my summer in Patagonia. Lot's of fresh snow but my mind is set on the warm sandstone of Indian Creek.
Yes....change is constant and inevitable. I've seen a lot of it in my half century of climbing. When I speak of changes in areas I am familiar with I'm not bemoaning the facts I'm just commenting on them from a historical perspective.
Change brings different things to the table for different people. Sometimes I find that change suits me and I embrace it, other times I find myself moving on to other pastures.
I'm currently completely entertaining myself poking around in previously unexplored corners of Aysen, Patagonia.
Ciao!
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