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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 20, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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Leave as a sketchfest or make it a sport climb. It's quite good though I've already led it twice! Won't again but toproped it the other day and it was so good!! (Chossy mixed ice)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 20, 2015 - 09:57pm PT
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Sometimes during a first ascent'..things don't go as planned...and then it bugs you for years to come, when you wanted a first ascent to ...well;.....turn out differently......but it didn't go quite like you planned it.....
So;....years later;..you go back and "fix" the route up..so to speak;..the way you wanted it to go in the first place.
Poor decisions were made....wrong decisions were made. Things turned out jacked up or just plain wrong;..they don't have to stay that way forever.
If your FA is sukwad and not the way you wanted it to be..and you can "make it right".....go for it!....it doesn't have to stay jacked up forever;......complete the vision!!......don't let others bully you to "leave it the way it is..."......especially if it SUCKs!,..and you don't dig it the way it turned out.
It's a good feeling to "take care of business"...and complete the "vision" that was the genesis for the FA in the first place.
I do agree with "leave well enough alone'...but I Don't agree with "leave crap as crap when it can be golden".....just because it went down that way on the FA......
(but don't mess with other people's FAs.......that is THEIR business....go mess with your own....)..
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Feb 20, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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leave well enough alone.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
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Wowsa!!!!!
Advice from tami, todd, and perry!!!!!!
Feel supa lucky to have such sage guidance
Might just add a couple fixed
Pieces... That way I can lead it again!!!
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 11:00pm PT
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My bad "the chief"
Just wondering if anyone had similar quandaries, proud of it but pride can be a shameful thing! Something to regret?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 20, 2015 - 11:01pm PT
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Pink hangers only. Then subsequent teams can know which was which.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2015 - 05:34am PT
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Its your route. do as you please. personaly i like to put up routs that I enjoy climbing. I like to leave behind climbs that people (myself included) enjoy. Not some bag of crap that no one ever does.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 21, 2015 - 06:55am PT
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Tidy up the loose ends, make it sporty but dont make it sport.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2015 - 07:52am PT
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because leading is more fun than top ropeing. I can never quite understand the so called purest faction that claims top ropeing somehow is better than leading.. old fuddy duddys stuck in some delusion that bolts are evil....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:02am PT
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it ain't true. top ropeing is practice for climbing like masturbation is practice for sex..
I hate the label tradclimber/tradman. In my experience most(not all) people who describe themselfs as trad climbers are not very good climbers and have all sorts of superiority issues not warented by their actual abilitys. I prefer to climb with Climbers not trad wankers;)
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:12am PT
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What if, after getting the route wired... you decide there's too many bolts, and remove a few? Since, "you own it"...right?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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Good to see you posting Randisi.
I agree with tradman that leading is better and a totally different experience.
You obviously don't own the route, but you have every right to add or take away from what you've done. If it's a worthy climb, make it as best as you can. If what makes it fun is the sporty lead, then don't water it down.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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Sport climbing...as someone once said, it is an "invisible top rope".
Doesn't make it any less fun, but there is some truth to that view I think.
A little, especially if it is done right. Best thing about a good sport vs top rope climb is I don't have to walk to the top and rap down before climbing. Which would be a real pain some places.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:15am PT
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BTW I agree that not everything needs to be bolted. there are many climbs simply not worth the effort, many climbs that are squeeze jobs or not esthetic enough or in a place that may cause access issues that are best left alone. On the other hand if it is a significant climb, a strikeing feature, a line that begs to be climbed yet lacks cracks for protection then hell yes I want to lead that climb and top ropeing will not satisfy that need.
And yes claiming an FA after a top rope is one of the lamest things ever done in climbing. top rope FA's have made it into a few guide books but I look at them as a poor decision and huge mistake by the author. Typcaly I describe those types of climbs as previously top roped but still awaiting an FA
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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For me I actually climb worse and don't use my full potential when top roping. Not saying top ropes aren't fun, I just like the fear of falling, even if it's a sport climb;-)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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I am tradmanclimbs because I used to be a weak tradwanker;) I am not praticularly strong now but i am much more well rounded climber.
Leading a sport climb top ropeing? not most of the spurt climbs i have been on.. In fact I would venture that your average sport climb is way f*#king scarier than your average trad climb. You can't sew up a sport climb. you have to actually climb to the next bolt.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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Of course, you know, given that logic, you should solo.
Shit! I believe you have won that argument. Maybe I'll just boulder, haha.
Good hearing from you, I'm going top roping now!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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What about allowing someone else fix a route for you?
I doubt I will ever go back and add the bolts I think would be good for a route...
So go ahead and fix the routes for me!!!
Is that an invitation for abuse?, maybe
maybe not, most folks will only add the bolts that are really needed, and not add bolts willy nilly just to be a jerk
my extra 2 cents
Some of the best climbable rock has been taken off the table of being super classic routes because the FA climber couldn't stop to put bolts in because it was TOO HARD.
Of course I've had this discussion before, few agree with me, it's just too liberal for general acceptance,
our Top Down Authoritarian Rock Climbing Ethics Police have dictated that it's unacceptable to add gear to an existing route no matter how f*#ked up it is.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Actually I am correct. Your average sport and trad climbs are G rated. the vast majority of trad wankers who slag on sport climbers do not climb the run out climbs they like to idolize.
On your average trad climb if you get scared you plug in a piece in front of your nose while you still have a piece at your bellybutton. heck sometimes you can do the entire route by placeing gear above your head for every hard move. On your average spurt climb you have to actually climb above the bolt to make your next clip. Heck i even know a few anti sport climbers who go sport climbing with a light trad rack and add gear in between the bolts because they are too scared to climb to the next bolt without adding the chicken gear;)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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Tami. it is commonly accepted that the FA party has the say on what fixed gear is allowed on a climb. the FA party can make a big stink if someone adds fixed gear to their climb or they can go ahead and add or remove fixed gear as they please. It's how we have been playing the game for at least the last 20 years
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