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LOWERme
Trad climber
NM
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Feb 29, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
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West side has incredible granite honestly. Way better than any of the eastern sierra classics.
Zumwalt choss....
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2016 - 01:13am PT
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Just updated the south and west faces of Moro rock and added Bear Rock to the Danland PDF. 'Tis the season!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Don't think the west face ever closes and I think i heard south face is already open...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 09:29am PT
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Chimney Rocks is closed but it's correct that the west face of moro never closes, as well as the NE face. Radish and I have both had discussions with the new biologist about the South Face route on Moro and he sounded willing to keep it open but that was after the closure was posted online and it hasn't changed
http://www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/rockclimb.htm
He may have opened it and just not communicated that to the publicist person running the website.
This weekend will be NUTS up there though! The road to Moro is closed on busy weekend so you'll have to ride the free shuttle (unless you arrive really early), which isn't a big deal. Once you get past the crowds you still probably won't see any climbers.
Edit: Just sent you a PM, Moose
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Moro is calling! Its a really busy weekend in the park with long waits to get in. But, Its way worth it, once you get on the rock and away from all the tourists. The South Face route on Moro is open. I know they haven't posted it but I have been assured that it is open. Though if you go bring lots of water and be ready for a long day of fun in the sun !!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Awesome news Rene'! Thanks for the update
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Cool, Moose! Hope you had a good time cragging and didn't have too many problems with parking. Be sure to come back for the South Face of Moro, it makes for a fun day.
PM wasn't important, it was just about the closure before Rene' confirmed that it's definitely open.
How was Neat Wall? I've actually never even climbed there :/ I was given the topo with some beta and went and checked it out alone a couple times but didn't do any routes. Looked good enough for anyone in the Giant Forest area with a couple hours to kill, but I'm interested to hear some feedback on the quality and topo accuracy...
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ec
climber
ca
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Radish and I have both had discussions with the new biologist about the South Face route on Moro and he sounded willing to keep it open but that was after the closure was posted online and it hasn't changed -lc
Having worked on peregrine projects out there, I woulda thought Rene' had sense enough to realize that if the East Face is closed, there would be NO good reason to open the South Face. Why? In order to access the South Face, one must travel beneath the East Face. These birds are protective during nesting and any 'intruder' may give them reason to burst out of the aerie, which can damage the eggs. Peregrines do not make finely padded nests; they are right on the rock, with a bit of sand, if it's there.
Even after they had abandoned an aerie one year (w/unhatched damaged eggs), they were swooping my exposed ass while not even close to the aerie.
 ec
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ec
climber
ca
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limpingcrab,
PDR, starts to the right of the wide crack on the face with the bolts. Then traverses left to the joust pitch. Going up the crack misses some good faceclimbing; it'll warm ya up for what's ahead.
ec
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Thanks ec, Shylock (Brian) and I climbed PDR after it came up on this thread. A little spooky but awesome! We really wanted to free she short aid section but it didn't happen. Only two moves of aid if your 6'4"!
As for the peregrines, I'm no expert but I have learned a fair amount through reading and monitoring them for the forest service for two years. Their sensitivity seems to be influenced by their surroundings and being that the Moro pair has hundreds of tourists above their eyrie (generally more sensitive to disturbance from above) every day I'd be surprised if they're bothered by a few people walking hundreds of feet below. Once on route the South Face is way around the corner and shouldn't be an issue. The biologist seemed to agree but he admitted to being more of a mammal guy in the same way I'm more of a reptile guy.
I'm just happy that he's willing to work with climbers!
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ec
climber
ca
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limpingcrab,
I used to work for those guys for years doing peregrine surveys for them. Even over 'around the corner' is an issue for the birds; even walking below. I speak from having been there. Touroids on top don't seem to matter though, go figure...
ec
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Thanks Moose, I didn't notice much moss on my scouts but saw some bushy-ness. I know a few people have climbed down there this summer when they stayed in that area and were just looking for some cragging. Maybe it'll clean up soon now that the info is out. Hope it wasn't a waste of your time.
I guess we'll see ec! I'm not too worried either way, honestly...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2016 - 11:18pm PT
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Added what I know of big baldy just in time for the road to be closed, ha! Contender for my favorite roadside formation in the park.
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/big-baldy.html
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2016 - 07:18pm PT
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Final bump for Big Baldy for those interested. Possibly gonna start adding some Kings Canyon stuff next...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Roadside? "1/2 mile hike"!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2016 - 11:42am PT
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Anything under two hours is roadside :)
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Haha! Moro & Crystal are closer...
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Aldude, I hope your not complaining! Daniel has done a ton of work making this Big Baldy climbing info happen, including lots of rapping and hiking to check on things. And....its FREE online for you.
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