Test out my free Sequoia & Kings Canyon N.P. topos!

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 61 - 80 of total 175 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Feb 9, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
How'd the PDR attempt go? That's on my list for sure, so please spray me down!

Chad
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2016 - 12:10pm PT
I think all the thanks that Dan and Larry want is for people to actually climb there and enjoy the routes. It's hard to believe but that entire approach trail was made without any tools. Dan is a former ranger and wants good climber/ranger relationships in SEKI so he made the trail by dragging his feet and went through six pairs of cheap shoes in the first season! He will occasionally use a rake if the leaves get bad. So basically they just like it when people don't cut corners or smash the little water diversions.

I wish Green Crack was as good as it looked from the ground. The first time I saw it it was still unclimbed and it was kind of a bummer to find that grainy part in the middle once I finally did the route (not the FA). Still fun though!

The dome has 14 pitches on it, but it's not 14 pitches tall. I haven't even been over there yet but I guess they ran out of cracks and started bolting some slab and face routes over there. Larry sounded pretty excited about it so there must be some fun ones! (though he's always just excited in general).


EDIT: Didn't get around to doing PDR before winter came along, Chad. If you end up needing a partner I'll be happy to join if I still haven't done it.
Gunkie

climber
Feb 9, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
I knew I had the guidebook. 1993 edition in mint condition.


Kris Solem on a 5.3+ or something like that.

Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Feb 13, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
Why are people leaving fixed lines all over the bases of the various climbs at Danland? I went there today and found a huge number of fixed lines. Also, I found a climbing rack with cams and quickdraws in a tree at the base of a climb as well as a fixed top rope with many gear left in the rock. What is with leaving many stick clips all over the place? What is with the belay seat left on the first pitch of the climb? The place looks like a sh#thole. Clean up your sh#t or it will disappear.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2016 - 09:45pm PT
Gunkie, you missed your chance! A few years ago that book was selling for over $300 but now that mountainproject has more info and my site is up the price went way down. Cool to have one in perfect condition!



Climberdude, I hope that was a friendly word of advice and not a threat? All of the gear and ropes up there are Dan's. He lives a few minutes away and is up there several times a week, usually alone. There's a lot of trust in SEKI and no point in carrying everything up and down the trail and many of the fixed lines lead to new areas, projects, or bolts he is upgrading for everyone's enjoyment. In the past 5 or 6 years the number of climbers that had been to Danland could probably be counted on your fingers and toes. It's only been recently that other people have come to climb.

PLEASE don't take or tamper with the gear up there! Nobody even cares if you want to TR a route with a rope as long as you leave it safe for the next person. It's a small climbing community up there and everyone gets along great, I'm sure if they even suspected the "Sh*t show" was bothering anyone they would be quick to apologize and move anything that's in the way.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 13, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
It would be a bit dickish to take the rack of the people who put in years of work and love into developing that place. Everything from making the trail you walked on, to cleaning the cracks you climbed, bolts you clipped and topos you used. The fixed lines are on their projects. The crag is being continuously developed. From what i understand the guys who love that place are out there multiple times a week...
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Feb 13, 2016 - 10:00pm PT
Yes, it was a friendly word of advice. The place looks horrible with all of fixed gear all over the place. This is in a National Park and all fixed gear must be removed within 24 hours.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2016 - 12:02am PT
Thanks Cosmic!

Climberdude, I'll let Dan know more people are climbing there so he might want to be a little more subtle with is work :)

Have we ever met? If you're from Clovis we should meet up sometime, I'm always looking to meet other valley people!
-Daniel Jeffcoach
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Feb 16, 2016 - 07:38am PT
Why are people leaving fixed lines all over the bases of the various climbs at Danland? I went there today and found a huge number of fixed lines. Also, I found a climbing rack with cams and quickdraws in a tree at the base of a climb as well as a fixed top rope with many gear left in the rock. What is with leaving many stick clips all over the place? What is with the belay seat left on the first pitch of the climb? The place looks like a sh#thole. Clean up your sh#t or it will disappear.

This is messed up. It's not like the owners/developers are hard to find. You are basically inviting someone to go up and steal their gear. Too late now but you should have made an effort to contact them in a less public manner. I'd like to thank Larry, Dan and company for developing an area and being willing to share.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Feb 16, 2016 - 07:44am PT
Climberdude, stashing gear during the development of an area is totally acceptable in my view. It's a lot of work and I kinda think you should be a little more grateful/respectful for their work and gear. Definitely shouldn't be making a stink out of it.
"Clean up your sh#t or it will disappear." Is anything but friendly advice.
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Feb 16, 2016 - 08:05am PT
Yes, I agree that stashing gear is usually acceptable and perhaps should be considered. However, to have it just strung out all over the place at the base and on climbs, as I observed, is:

(1) Looks bad to climbers (I thought I came across the scene of a climbing accident, which I have observed twice at other locations or someone trying to make an outdoor climbing gym, a situation I also observed once at remote location).

(2) Looks bad to the public if someone happened to come across it.

(3) Is in stark contrast to the careful effort that people have described the developer used to minimize impact and stay within the regulations of the NP when developing the trail going up to the site.

(4) Is an invitation to having the items taken, by whomever.

By the way, I have also done a lot of development of climbs in very remote locations done rope solo. I lug all my gear in and all my gear out each day. I appreciate the great effort people have done to develop climbs at this location, but was kind of shocked by what I found once I reached the climbing area.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Feb 16, 2016 - 10:09am PT
Troubling words there climberdude ! I always 'assume' all local climbers support each other and their endeavors. Pretty scary ultimatum coming from a local. I can't imagine having a bad time at Danland or taking anybodys gear. Unfortunately, now that this is mainstream everyone else knows about this too. Danland doesn't get hardly any traffic and having one less climber wouldn't be too bad.
Camahoo

Trad climber
Northern Seki
Feb 17, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
The route you guys are working looks bad ass. Kinda looks like there has been a lot of air time and rubber spent.
A friend and I went up there and gotta say normally I post smart ass remarks. This time however, nice job! There looks to be a lot thought to each line. Bolts where they are needed and the forethought of pitch height to limit rope drag is a nice touch.
I have visited the website and gotta say being from the Northern Seki, you southern guys are doing a great job getting routes and area information out. The northern side is in the shadow of shuteye so our information media person "Da White Crow" has been working on the printed side.
Just a note; JR and I could not see your new route from the parking area, maybe post a card board sign at the top of the trail about route working in progress. That way someone new to the area will not feel like they need to molest your gear. We could see clearly that a route was being developed, however some of us are clueless and don't understand the ownership in the development of an area or route.
Thanks for the hard work.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
Thanks, Camahoo! I haven't been to Danland in a while but I'll call Dan and catch him up on everyone's thoughts since he doesn't spend much time on the computer.

By northern SEKI are you talking about Cedar Grove/Kings Canyon or are you talking way up there in the backcountry or something?
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Feb 17, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
Fixed lines, woohoo! It's going to be a great spring!
SEKI can be a tough place to find partners sometimes.
Big thanks to the people making this happen!
C-ya out there,.....

Oh, and I'd never steal yer gear. My triples/quad rack is too much sh#t to haul around anyway.....I will buy you a beer though.
Thanks again!


Chad
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Feb 17, 2016 - 06:48pm PT
Jeremy, cool thanks for clearing that up.


Anybody wanna climb at Danland this spring, lemme know!
Highgloss

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 19, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
Not sure whats Danland but Im super down to get on some hq granite anytime.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 19, 2016 - 05:07pm PT
High quality granite...Hamilton and Cherubim domes are top notch. Bubbs Creek Wall is like a backcountry big wall with amazing granite and free climbing. West side has incredible granite honestly. Way better than any of the eastern sierra classics. High country stuff is awesome in own way of course...
Camahoo

Trad climber
Northern Seki
Feb 29, 2016 - 02:06pm PT
Limpingcrab, Northern SEKI as I was using it is the northern most part of the sierra covered in the SEKI guidebook. There is no one name to call this area, between Kings and the San Joaquin rivers. This area is mostly overlooked because of Shuteye and SEKI. Maybe Dinky is the most fitting. Maybe slablands?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2016 - 02:44pm PT
Got it. Lots of new routes going up around there.

For now I'm just updating the site for places in Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park (SEKI), not all the places covered by the old guide.

So much rock, so little time!
Messages 61 - 80 of total 175 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta