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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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That's funny that you commented on this thread, Nut. I was actually going to climb PDR a while ago until I came across the Mini TR of your trip up the first couple pitches and it scared me! Instead I decided to go have a look from the base and make my best guess from that and the old SEKI guide.
I didn't take any pictures when I scoped it out but here's a pic from the internet of what I saw
First pitch in a wide crack with a bush at the top and a left facing corner to the right, as in the topo.
From there is looked like it went over into that shallow system above and then way left out towards the bigger knobs. I tried to draw that in the topo. Maybe I should show more of a shallow dihedral instead of the little left facing corner at the start of the P2 traverse? The topo is pretty zoomed out so I can't include small features and it was hard to tell from below. Are you saying it traverses further?
I also saw the wide crack to bush to shallow system from here.
If you get bored and want to draw where you went on this pic I'd be interested. I mean, in the end it's totally your fault if there are mistakes since you scared me out of my recon climb :) I should have gone anyway since it sounds like a typical scary Moro route and I'm beginning to become numb to the runout knobs...
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 13, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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I had no pictures from that time, this was the only beta:
From this book:
The line drawing here accords more closely with my memory of things. I may have gone up the crack in the right corner of your picture at the base, rather than the runnel on the face. Then across the bushy ledge, then a very exposed 5.9 step-across move or two to a little ledge at the base of the short dihedral. I think overall, the route is more to the left than is visible in your first picture of the base. But my memory is generally quite bad about these details.
IF ANY AUTHORS OR PUBLISHER WANT ME TO TAKE THIS DOWN, I WILL- LET ME KNOW. I just thought it's been out of print so it doesn't make a monetary difference to them. If that is presumptuous of me, I'll yank it.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 13, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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Upon reflection, we might have done the start of Moro Oro and traversed that ledge, rather than going straight up as the route was supposed to go. But even so, the rest of the route would be more to the left than in your first pic. I recall it being open knobby face, no runnels or crack features or streaks to follow above the short big of dihedral down low.
Edit: Upon more reflection, I think that line drawing is not quite right, or I'm not remembering the scale correctly. I clearly remember going up some left-facing dihedral or mini buttress from the ground to reach that bushy ledge, then traversing left a ways on the bushy ledge, then a left step-across a blankish face section to the good ledge at the base of the short featured dihedral. Above that, wide open face with knobs.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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Ya I've got that book and Greg and Dave won't care if it's posted but I don't know Sally. They lost all the rights to it once the publishing company got bought out so they got kinda screwed. They tried to remake the whole guide to update it about 10 or so years ago and their computer got stolen with no back ups. Huge bummer for nice guys.
Also, crap. It's starting to look like I might finally have to climb PDR once and for all. Any chance you traversed out to the bolt at the top of the 5.9 alternate start?
Either way, thanks a ton for the feedback, it's good to know where I need to investigate more. On the bright side my PDR topo is almost the same as the one in the book and you guys found the route so it must work ok?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 13, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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Really nice work
Thanks
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Nov 13, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
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i'll climb PDR with you daniel! hey, sounds like a weekend at moro sometime soon then
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 09:45pm PT
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It's looking that way, Brian. The road is closed right now so we'll have to wait until the snow melts or walk the road from the museum if we want to before spring.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Nov 13, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
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wait til spring?? i would expect more from you.. it's like a 20 minute extra walk. on a road.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 11:49pm PT
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Ha! I can't count the number of times people have said they didn't want to climb at Moro because the road was closed. I should have known the night navigation expert was not one of those people.
My sincere apologies.
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Nov 14, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
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What great information on EC's and Rene's blogs and on this site. I loved the pics and stories. Good to know that there's still adventure in climbing.
Sally
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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Thanks for the compliments!
BTW, you related to a Keith and Kevin, same last name? Indeed, father's cousins. Small world. Actually, ever since one of my grandparents changed their name from Jeffcoat to Jeffcoach there have only been a few generations. If you meet a Jeffcoach we are directly related. Odd last name but at least we get to feel special?
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Hey Nutagain! I recently found some slides of the first ascent of PDR while you guys are on the subject. Not the best, there's 2 climbers in the pic. If you could free this part, the route would go free.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 04:10pm PT
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Ha! Whichever you prefer. Although posting beta online might result in actually seeing a single person up there, so beware!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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If you show up in danland, you are likely gonna get attacked by all the Dans and a gang of salamanders.
Haha. It is not a locals only crag. In fact, I wouldn't be surprise if the guys that climb there would buy you dinner. They are really happy to see other climbers having a good time out there.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Danland would be very nice as soon as we get some 55-65 temps in 3 rivers.
Make sure you bring your best game, that stone is really slick...
Just beware of the locals...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 05:12pm PT
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Danland should be good by this weekend. It's just over 4,000 ft but since it faces SW and it's steep it dries really quickly, so as long as you can handle the temps the rock should be good. They're putting up some climbs waaaaay left in a slabby area that seeps a bit but the stuff in the online guide dries quickly.
Rene may have a better feel for things since he's in the area a lot, maybe he'll chime in.
Basically, if Tollhouse is good it'll probably be good, just a bit cooler.
Edit to add: The rock there can be hit or miss with some awesome climbs and some crumbly ones. If you head down feel free to get a hold of me and I can make some recommendations!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2016 - 10:00pm PT
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Cool, glad you guys made it and got some climbing in!
Thinking back on it, it totally makes sense that race crack would stay wet a little longer. That would explain why the rock right there is insanely slick.
Hope you found some of the good routes!
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Gunkie
climber
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Impressive stuff! Question: What are the Royal Arches or Snake Dike or Nose or RNWFHD equivalents in this region?
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Danland has been pretty clear of snow and Dan and Larry have been up at their usual twice a week pretty much all year. There have been some cold days but now that its warmer its a great time to go up. There is seepage on some of places. You couldn't find better climbing hosts! Both Dan and Larry are very supportive no matter what rating you are climbing and both climb way harder than most climbers for their 60's age!! You can look at the Case Mountain RAW station which is across from Danland west to get an idea of temps and other cool stuff. http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/timeseries.php?wfo=hnx&sid=CSWC1&num=120
For longer routes there is Moro Rock close by. Danland is just inside SEKI
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