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ec
climber
ca
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Daniel, in your Moro descriptions there is a reference to "no clean ascent" to a route that is a 'clean' route. So, is there something not in the gear list, or are you trying to say something totally different as, "route has not been climbed in its entirety without falling, or what?"
 ec
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2015 - 11:52pm PT
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Oops, bad choice of words. What I meant was, like you guessed, nobody has climbed Modern Guilt without hanging a bunch on the crux pitch. I should have said nobody has freed the whole thing or something like that.
The other pitches are mostly 5.10 or 11- but that crux pitch is more like 5.12 vertical slab climbing. I believe Brandon Thau freed all the moves but hung a few times.
I've top roped most of an alternative that was easier but I haven't been back to follow through on it. When I went up the whole thing it was pretty incredible climbing the whole way and supposedly it's even better now that the first two pitches were moved.
Thanks for looking through it and pointing that out, I'll fix it soon!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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How did I miss this?
Nice stuff, Crab!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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Last bump for the new Moro stuff before I get back to work.
Thanks to EC, Tork and Mooch for the helpful feedback already!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Ho GREAT STUFF WHOOT WHOOT !! That takes work good onya' mate!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thank you for making this site, it is great. BUT I better see credit where the credit is due for taking a photo of you on the FOrtress! :)))
Also, thank you for linking to EC Joe's site. I remember it was down and through this thread I found out it has been resurrected. Is it an Easter special? Not mentioning southernsierraclimber because it has been there working and I regularly take a look there. And because I am turned off by the short shorts, long dress up socks and climbing shoes combo! :) jk.
EC, some great stories man! Seems like we have a lot in common regarding the drive towards climbing and stuff. Except I am not skilled on face climbing part to run it out on 5.10 face, or to even climb solid 5.10 sloping face/friction. It is an art I would love to get better at. You put up some balls out lines, but one story I particularly enjoyed reading was about the route you guys did on Tehipite dome. Amazing you brought a third who did not know how to jug and climbed only a few times prior to that outing. Surprised he didn't back out after the first hanging bivy or the hike...interesting thoughts about inter-partner relationships when it comes to FAs of lines one or the other is scoping. Daniel and I talked about that subject a few weeks ago. Seems like Richard Leversee was basically giving you the fact that he is going to climb the line you have scoped and told him about? Without inviting you along...seems totally wrong. Stuff like that makes me wish people respected the friendship bond more than they respect the accomplishment. But anyway, great site...
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ec
climber
ca
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VM,
Thx! Hey, Leversee and I did have some 'bad blood' over some things, however we've long since buried the hatchet. I've been tearing sh*t up around here trying to find his FA story on Homer's Nose. It's an entertaining read. If I can find some devices to read 'ancient' digital storage, I'll post it up on the resurrected v20 website.
Daniel,
I added some links to the v20 website of your ongoing Moro Guide/Topos. Good stuff.
ec
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Damn, wish I had this resource back in February!
Thanks, and good work!
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WBraun
climber
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Well everything now makes sense.
When I was at Moro rock I had no clue what was what.
I just started climbing sh!t until I got to the top ......
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Is only the South Face subject to falcon closures, or both South and West faces? The NPS website is not very informative
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ec
climber
ca
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South and East...usually
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
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Ya, what ec said. Usually all of the south face and only the left (south) half of the east face. West face doesn't have closures
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
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Bump for the addition of The Watchtower and the Neat Wall
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2015 - 11:47pm PT
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Finally got the east face of Moro uploaded. Someone better use this because I crawled through bushes and fell a bunch trying to get the picture for the overlay!!!
Also made a few updates and corrections to some other stuff as usual if you look around.
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/moro---east-face.html
Woot? I mean, holla?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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Thanks tad!
Holy crap I hope nobody actually looked at this. Just woke up to notice a ton of mistakes, that's what I get for working late at night.
There, now all two of you who are interested in Moro can look, I think I've got it fixed.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 13, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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Nice work, Daniel! This site just keeps getting better.
John
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 13, 2015 - 11:00am PT
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This is a truly great resource- thank you!
I have a different recollection of the start of Piece de Resistance, but we may have been totally screwed up and doing it wrong. I recall an easy start to the right, then a long horizontal traverse left over reasonably easy but unprotected terrain, going a little more traversing than the height above the bushy ledge (basically soloing). That traverse led to very featured dihedral for a short ways, then onto a knobby run-out face. The next pitch was waay run-out with some sketchy crumbling chicken-heads underfoot. Still the scariest pitch I've ever climbed, and only 5.9. We bailed after that, still haven't been back. But the start had more traverse than appears in the topo, and I don't see what I recall as the memorable right-facing feature at the end of the traverse before going on the open face above.
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