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Messages 181 - 188 of total 188 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
What would be a good time of year to try Modern Guilt on Moro Rock?
Spring or Fall, it can get pretty warm on the west face of Moro mid-summer. If you're just working on it or climb quickly then it's great any time before noon in the summer since mornings above 6,000 feet are nice, but once the sun hits the light colored granite on that part of the rock it can heat up. It's not unbearable, I've climbed a lot of the moderates on the south and west faces during the summer, but for MG some cool temps and high friction would be helpful.
Jeff G

Trad climber
Fort Collins
Jan 22, 2019 - 06:11am PT
Thanks! Modern Guilt looks really amazing!!
shylock

Social climber
mb
Jan 22, 2019 - 06:23am PT
Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldnít walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) .

As far as MG. Iíve played on it in the winter many times. Though it sounds like maybe not this winter? Anyway since youíre from out of state and will likely come to ca in the spring or fall, just hit it then. Perfect stop on the way to the needles from the valley for instance. Or just spend all time in SEKI :) . Daniel is spot on with his summer time beta. Key point being it faces west and some days once in the sun could be fine with a breeze . Additionally, you can likely be past the cruxes once the sun hits...

For granite face climbing, the route is all time..
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jan 22, 2019 - 11:45am PT
West Face Moro Rock
West Face Moro Rock
Credit: Radish
Not this year, but Moro has looked similar several times this year already. We've got a lot of snow Thankfully! Shows the some of the West Face Routes including 'Modern Guilt'.
spectreman

Trad climber
Jan 24, 2019 - 07:48pm PT
Is it possible to hike out from the West Face of Moro or do you have to climb out? If, for example, I were to rap Modern Guilt on a recon mission and TR solo the pitches on my way down, could I then hike back out?
shylock

Social climber
mb
Jan 25, 2019 - 08:22am PT
Iíve done that exact thing a couple times. The gulley to the left goes ok. Itís doable but itís not super fun. Best to just show up with a 1000 ft of rope :)
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2019 - 03:14pm PT
Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldnít walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) .
Mind your own business, don't be a weather sissy and get back to climbing! I deleted that sentence, I haven't read the squirrel creek guide intro yet but I have walked to the top of it. Oops.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2019 - 01:15pm PT
The Danland guys added some more text descriptions to their mini-guide so I updated the PDF

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html



I also updated my truck ('cause I'm a poser) so you can find me and say hi next time you visit the best part of Sierra :)
If you see this on a grey Tacoma let's high five
If you see this on a grey Tacoma let's high five
Credit: limpingcrab

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