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Messages 181 - 193 of total 193 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2018 - 02:50pm PT
Cool, if you climb Adrift and are in the mood to sketch a topo or record some beta I'd love the details on that climb since I haven't climbed it yet. If not, no worries, then at least I'll have an excuse to climb it.
shylock

Social climber
mb
Dec 7, 2018 - 08:45pm PT
dang that snow boots actually looks awesome
grubs

climber
Dec 12, 2018 - 10:19am PT
A note on Tokopah Domes if you haven't been... if you go, climb Tokopah Reality- it's great. And the holes left of Thousand Piece Meal Deal sadly don't go anywhere, just dark pockets, and they don't even connect to each other.

Daniel- thanks for all the info. Hope you heal up fast and can get back to that limestone monstrosity. B and I were really hoping you guys would put something good up over there so we could go do it without all the hard work ;)

-Neal
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2019 - 03:24pm PT
Thanks Neal! I'm walking again now, albeit slowly. Three months ago today so my bones should be full strength, now I just have to keep up with the PT to strengthen everything else.


New addition:
Squirrel Creek, a small crag near Danland has been added to the site. Both of those locations are prefect for winter for anyone looking for southern Sierra/SEKI options. Squirrel Creek is like 90 seconds from the road and almost everything can be top-roped. Also, nobody has seen a squirrel there yet, last I checked.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html

Jeff G

Trad climber
Fort Collins
Jan 21, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
Great info! Thanks for the topos!

What would be a good time of year to try Modern Guilt on Moro Rock?
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jan 21, 2019 - 05:03pm PT
Wishing you a speedy, and thorough, recovery!!!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
What would be a good time of year to try Modern Guilt on Moro Rock?
Spring or Fall, it can get pretty warm on the west face of Moro mid-summer. If you're just working on it or climb quickly then it's great any time before noon in the summer since mornings above 6,000 feet are nice, but once the sun hits the light colored granite on that part of the rock it can heat up. It's not unbearable, I've climbed a lot of the moderates on the south and west faces during the summer, but for MG some cool temps and high friction would be helpful.
Jeff G

Trad climber
Fort Collins
Jan 22, 2019 - 06:11am PT
Thanks! Modern Guilt looks really amazing!!
shylock

Social climber
mb
Jan 22, 2019 - 06:23am PT
Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldn’t walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) .

As far as MG. I’ve played on it in the winter many times. Though it sounds like maybe not this winter? Anyway since you’re from out of state and will likely come to ca in the spring or fall, just hit it then. Perfect stop on the way to the needles from the valley for instance. Or just spend all time in SEKI :) . Daniel is spot on with his summer time beta. Key point being it faces west and some days once in the sun could be fine with a breeze . Additionally, you can likely be past the cruxes once the sun hits...

For granite face climbing, the route is all time..
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jan 22, 2019 - 11:45am PT
West Face Moro Rock
West Face Moro Rock
Credit: Radish
Not this year, but Moro has looked similar several times this year already. We've got a lot of snow Thankfully! Shows the some of the West Face Routes including 'Modern Guilt'.
spectreman

Trad climber
Jan 24, 2019 - 07:48pm PT
Is it possible to hike out from the West Face of Moro or do you have to climb out? If, for example, I were to rap Modern Guilt on a recon mission and TR solo the pitches on my way down, could I then hike back out?
shylock

Social climber
mb
Jan 25, 2019 - 08:22am PT
I’ve done that exact thing a couple times. The gulley to the left goes ok. It’s doable but it’s not super fun. Best to just show up with a 1000 ft of rope :)
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2019 - 03:14pm PT
Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldn’t walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) .
Mind your own business, don't be a weather sissy and get back to climbing! I deleted that sentence, I haven't read the squirrel creek guide intro yet but I have walked to the top of it. Oops.
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