C Mac, in case the enthusiastic response on this thread hasn't already made it abundantly clear, you definitely ought to have this climb in the next and every edition of any High Sierra climbing guidebook.
I'm hoping to see a TTR from Myles Moser here soon. He did a recent ascent of Crimson Wall, asked for some info then e-mailed me after the deed:
On Aug 25, 2009, at 7:02 PM, Myles Moser wrote:
"we were on the wall for three days two night. one of the hardest routes i have ever done. great work. the topo could use an update though. a lot of bolts have been added. plan on going up again to work the aid section. the beginning of that section is some steller free climbing then the transition to aid is a bust, but most defianlty worthy. the a3 now has one of my soft iron knife blades which i shall return for. thanks, it was alot of fun. need more food next time. 12d is extremely hard at 14,000ft"
Dee Eee, I was going to jump on you about your math, until I went back and saw the OP was 2003. 1977, 32 years now? Whoa, I was thinking the EXCACT thing, second pitch, I don't remember any other "choss". I did it in about '82, With Adrian Almodovar, using the topo you drew for us on a napkin.
RE; Walt Shipley, he did it in October. I'm not sure what year, mid 80's. I recreated Dave's topo on a new napkin at the Deli for him. Very bold any time of year, especially when relying on my crappy memory!
Back in '81 Werner and I drove down the East Side in his purple Pontiac, thrashed up through the manzanitas and climbed the Needle.
He was belaying under an overhang. I stemmed out to a foothold on top of a good sized block, and when I touched it, the block cut loose. I screamed "Rock!!!" really loud, in proportion to the size of the block, forgetting for the moment about Werner's hearing loss. He poked his head out from under the overhang, right in the line of fire to see what was up, and ducked back in just in time.
Just relating this in case anyone still thinks we are in charge of our destinies...
Interesting to read about bad rock on the Harding route. My friend John Weiland and I did a route in 1973 to the right of the Crimson Wall (traversing left into the middle of the wall at 3/4 height so it must almost be overlapped by CW from there on up). The rock was excellent. The first six pitches were free, then the next four were mostly aid, then free to the summit. We climbed straight up the headwall to the ledge on the prow that's on the cover of Ascent.
Chris McNamara, SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
crap, that is why i need a feature to upload photos directly to the supertopo site. i dont know where those photos are... but ill find them again somehow
And he did add a feature (excuuuse me, functionality) to allow direct uploading of photos, within weeks. A very handy one, too.