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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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Was perusing the wonderful Clint Cummins database and saw a few areas I didn't know excited.
Has anyone climbed the Warbler? He gives it 5.11d**. Pics, how to get there, gear, etc?
Also interested in exactly where the life on the dark side is located.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 05:06pm PT
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never climbed Warbler11d, but Dan McDevitt did and he told me that it is one of the best finger cracks at this grade. it is at Fi-fi buttress and in the Reid 1994 book
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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(overlay photo from mountainproject.com)
Approach from the right side of the parking lot for Bridalveil Falls -
the trail goes right to a gulley which reaches the right side of Fifi Buttress.
Instead of traversing left on the ledge to reach Romulan Freebird, Voyager, etc., you continue up the gully to the base of the wall,
then go up and right to the high point of the trail/talus.
This is the left side of the Warbler Buttress.
The Golden Road starts about 40' downhill from this point.
It is the dark shaded wall on the extreme right of the photo above.
If you follow the base down and right, there are 2 free cracks which go up the center of the buttress (Left and Right Millenium Cracks).
About 150' to the right is The Warbler.
There is a zigzag crack 5.10 approach pitch, then the 5.11d thin.
As Alexey mentioned, there is a topo for The Warbler in all editions of the Meyers/Reid guidebooks.
The Wall of Obscurity, with Life on the Dark Side, is much further to
the right, the lower left side of Crocker Point.
It's the shaded wall well below "Dewey Point" in the photo above.
It starts at the level of "of the" in "Tower of the Cosmic Winds".
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 08:09pm PT
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Here's a pic looking west from the base of Fifi
You can see the double strands of the wet streak and align to Clint's pic above
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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Great photos and beta. Will have to put the Warbler on the list now.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 29, 2015 - 09:52am PT
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If I can not find the pictures, it never fkn happened!
I was back and forth and around about all through the '90s. I'm pretty sure that I was belayt to some guys from Utah, SLC >>> who apparently do not even Lurk. YET ?
I can only hope.
Argh
The same goes for shots from Twilight zone and a Separate Reality.
The S.R. shots included pictures of us trying to use the crack in the back of the corner for a 'Head Jam' rest. face in cam head right ear down, that last bit is the beta.
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