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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Jaysen
Big Wall climber
NYC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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Hey guys, planning a month in the bugaboos this august. Trying to get info on the routes on North Howser tower. Looking to repeat, free an existing aid line or put up a new line. Digging for info on the tower has been less than ideal. Also any info is welcome on other formations around the park with possibilities. We are looking to find a mostly free line but well prepared for artificial means. Any info will help, feel free to shoot me an email or comment.
Going to be going on something of a road trip.
Boulder for 2 months then yosemite then the bugs.
Cheers,
Jaysen
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Jaysen
Big Wall climber
NYC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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also any links to trip reports would be welcome.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:27am PT
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I heard a few light weights been trying some splitter finger crack for a few seasons. It is on Snowpatch spire. Tom Egan Memorial Route. You should free that, looks rad!
AAJ online database is a good source for info. I would think obscure routes on N Howser would not have that much written about them. The approach to that thing is kind of burly, I heard you have to do bunch of rappelling to get down to it, and to get back out you have to climb a route. That could be way off and false, I have not done it myself. Maybe if here are not too many rapells you could fix a few ropes down into that bowl and scope out the wall close up, before committing to a route? Wish all the best to you, Bugaboos is a beautiful place!
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/search/solr?all=&article_publication=both&article_copyright_date=&article_article_type=&article_pub_title=North+howser+tower&route_name=
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:32am PT
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The approach to that thing is kind of burly
Well, yes, for a sport climber. ;-)
Go do the Alberta or N Twin approaches for comparison.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:38am PT
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Well, yes, for a sport climber. ;-)
Go do the Alberta or N Twin approaches for comparison.
I said I have not done it, but heard if you rap in, you have to climb back out by one of the routes. Burly in a way that supposedly you have to commit if you rap in, not burly because it is exhausting. AGAIN, this could be total BS.
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superjosh1978
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 28, 2015 - 10:57am PT
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Hey Jaysen. We climbed the North Howser in July 2013 roughly via a link-up of lower Shooting Gallery to upper Young Men on Fire. This link-up is sometimes called Under Fire. Difficulty was around 5.11 with our variations. I believe the FA party climbed the southwest face gully up high. We avoided it on steeper rock due to rockfall concerns, which ups the difficulty a little. Took us about 12 hours moving well with both leader and follower climbing free. 4 hour approach from Applebee to N. Howser bivy boulder, very easy descent for a mountain of this size.
Be conscious of rockfall risk. Protect belays and move quickly from the bottom of the approach rappels to the base of the face to avoid exposure to rockfall from the gully between the North and Central towers. PM me if you want more info.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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Here is a collage that I put together of the North tower. it is a collage of may photos, so there was some "fudge" in piecing it together. I would not rely on it for detailed route planning.
The full-size version can be found here:
http://images.summitpost.org/original/467501.jpg
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Jaysen
Big Wall climber
NYC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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Really great info thanks guys, also, im not insinuating that we plan on immediately getting ourselves killed on the thing. Going to do a few classics first then likely all along the watchtower. Just trying to get some additional info to marinate in until the trip arrives.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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BTW
See those black streaks? That's where water (and rocks) are falling.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
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I compiled a bunch of Bugaboos links on another thread a while back but can't seem to find the old link. Poke around a bit.
The Friends of Bugaboo Park FaceBook page has some info and Marc Piche's superb guidebook is a gem.
Raphael Slawinski wrote up a nice TR on 'Seventh Rifle' a few years back as well.
Good luck with your trip. Write it all up and make us live big from afar.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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Yo J-
Last winter, I asked for Bugaboo beta I was supposed to go on in July. I ended up buying a house and working on it all summer instead....
Regardless, there is a wealth of info on this thread. Ed H. put together a fantastic list of about all the supertopo Bugaboo beta there is.
Enjoy!
-Rog
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 31, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
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Much closer to Applebee and said to pack quite a punch...
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 13, 2017 - 05:13pm PT
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Awesome Jenny. Thanks and congrats on a good route!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Apr 13, 2019 - 07:57pm PT
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Contact Steph Abegg (for better high-res aerial photos of that face), or Jenny Abegg (who has climbed on it, and I think has already replied to you!). I'm sure they'd be happy to share beta and are easily found through Uncle Google.
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RDB
Social climber
Great Basin
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Apr 13, 2019 - 10:21pm PT
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neat trip report..awesome looking climb
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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