traversing with a silent partner

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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic

David C

Trad climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2015 - 01:19am PT

Hi,
I'd like to use my SP on a long, multi-pitch traverse. This means leading a pitch, then returning sideways to the anchor. I will need to climb rather than rap to the previous anchors as the route is horizontal. If I fall I will be left hanging from runners either side of me.

a. will the SP lock?
b. anyone fallen doing something like this?

Thanks for any help.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Jan 27, 2015 - 06:59am PT

Make sure you have enough slack not to get hung between peices from both sides perhaps. SP will feed or lock in either direction. Having both ends of the rope tied into an anchor should make for a pretty safe backup regarding the lack of backup knots during the 2nd traverse. Be prepared to hand feed and Tie backups during the last/cleaning phase.

If the pitch were short enough and you have a second line and are not hauling. I would consider rapping off as far as possible on the second line and then jumaring back to anchor. Might save climbing the pitch 3 times. Make sure to use the biner lock hole to keep the rope in the ascender. Might be more of a pain might not, depends on situation what will be easiest.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

Jan 27, 2015 - 03:27pm PT

What I don't see a lot of on silent partner threads is to make sure you tie back up knots in the rope in case device does slip. But device should lock if you fall no matter the direction. I like climbski's idea of second rope at original anchor and jugging instead of climbing.....

Climberdude

Trad climber

Clovis, CA

Jan 27, 2015 - 03:39pm PT

David,

I do a lot of climbing with the Silent Partner and have encountered sections with large traverses. Although the instructions for the Silent Partner warn that the device is not best suited for traversing climbs, I feel comfortable using it.

However, I do not use it for returning across the traverse and then re-ascending (traversing) to clean the pitch. Rather, I anchor the rope fairly tight at the top (really side) anchor of the pitch. Then I put two ascenders attached to PAS devices to my harness. Because the route is traversing, I also clip locking carabiners over the rope on each ascender so that it does not twist off of the rope. I work my way across pushing the two ascenders along. Then when I clean the pitch, I reverse the direction of the ascenders and use back up knots. A potential danger is that you do not have any backup knots when traversing back.

I believe if there is too much tension on the opposite side (the normal free side) of the Silent Partner feed, then the rope will not lock up properly. For this reason, I would not trust traversing back using just the Silent Partner. The other poster mentioned this indirectly in that there would need to be enough slack out if you were going to do this.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

Jan 27, 2015 - 06:03pm PT

Climberdude....Good ideas. I tie knots as I go back. Have a one handed overhand using mouth to pull tight. I don't think I'd climb back (or forwards as well) on Silent without back up knots.

David C

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2015 - 01:07am PT

Thanks for your help. The traverse is over 3000ft long so I need an easy to use system for sure.

mareko

Trad climber

San Francisco

Jan 28, 2015 - 05:14am PT

Thanks for the beta for traversing with SP. Ascenders are the ticket to clean and jug back up.

Love my SP

Mark

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Jan 28, 2015 - 07:48am PT

Thanks for your help. The traverse is over 3000ft long so I need an easy to use system for sure.

That is a lot of pub hopping downtown.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Jan 28, 2015 - 07:49pm PT

The traverse is over 3000ft long

Glad to hear the complete girdle of Half Dome is finally in the works.

scooter

climber

fist clamp

Jan 29, 2015 - 07:04pm PT

Give the silent partner an extra wrap and then make sure the 'biners are oriented properly. Maybe even use those ones that trap the device. Just go for after that and it will be OK!