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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 24, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
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Found an old rusted angle piton at the base of Moonlight Buttress this Fall. It was rusted out but after cleaning it up it looked like it had been painted gold. I have to imagine that it's been some time since someone pounded pins on Moonlight, any guess as to the last time pins were used? It looks like a mid 60's Chouinard.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
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1.5" channel angle
Still have a bunch.
Likely from the '70s or a gumby
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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I took a wire wheel to it to clean it up, it looked much worse before.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
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I'm pretty sure Lowe dropped it on the FA. At least that's my story I'm tellin folks.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
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Pffft, I say gumby.
Mike and Jeff likely did half the FA free!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 09:00am PT
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Nope, I'm sure Jeff dropped it Ron. In fact I'll have it up on the EBay real soon, starting bid is $2001.01
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 25, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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any guess as to the last time pins were used
Well, I used a few KBs on it around 1993, my one and only "winter big wall" ascent. I can see how that route should not be nailed, since the rock is so soft and you're definitely going to alter the rock with a pin placement. But people were nailing it at the time.
Once I went up to solo a 5.6 on back of the Petit Grepon in Colorado, a spire with a popular 5.8 on it. I found a really old, T-shaped nut made out of steel by Bill Forrest. I was able to wiggle it out and still have it as booty. I doubt it was from the first ascent, but when you're finding stuff like that, you know you're on an obscure route.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jan 25, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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We used several angles when we did it in the very early 80's. We didn't have tcu's or any small cams. Not sure they were even available then, at least we didn't know about them. We tried to do it as clean as we could but it was pretty hard to nut some of those sections. I do remember dropping a pin from it and listening to it pinging all the way down. Maybe you found that one...
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Jan 25, 2015 - 03:46pm PT
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what? a massive rusted angle found on the moon?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 25, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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Way into the '90s, people who banged pins liked to take it on the road!
Swinging a hammer is in some people's blood and old dogs . . .
Keith UhL. Bobs, of all colors, Witsenhausen & Pfalzt, for sure "church" Bob and Dr Otten? I would guess had hammers and pinz. Then there are the Mikes and the Paul's, in all likelihood many climbers had hammers and bongs that size, as back up or due to the cost and scarcity of large cams.
Someone says they used a hammer n Pinz on the Nutcracker in 1990!
Some, Like K. UhL, spent years gathering favorite pins from any one including visiting European, and older climbers - and resident relics,like Jon Burr.!(how is he?)
Keith was known to have called in favors, before his trip to climb the Shield. He was proud to get a couple of original pins That had been passed down from climber to climber making the pilgrimage to Yosemite.
Have you looked to see if there are any stamped initials? obvious Ding marks? Was the pin imbedded? out a ways from the wall? how far from the left side of the buttress?
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