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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 24, 2015 - 03:51am PT
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Un Fina Línea de Locura VII, 5.12 A3~ A4 Second Ascent, Central Tower Torres del Paine!
One word....EPIC!
19 days capsule-style, we endured some knarly sh!t up there.
16 days 0 degrees Celsius
Planned food for 15 days
Route fell off while on it,
Pushed through some of the worst Patagonian storms of season,
A pitch a day in blizzard conditions,
Mild frost nip on the toes,
a week later they are still numb
Didn't free the the route, but gave it hell!
"Ned" as he is called....wanted to kill us!
One of the pretties 600ft dihedrals We have seen.
Beaks, Wafer thins, tied off tipped baby angles, micro brassy n' some hope and wishin'
We were being buried alive.
Summit or bust!
Picked up and dropped by the "Patagonian Tempest"
....5 times!
"Rock N' Roll!" As our new Basque friends would say.
2AM... First morning we had seen stars
1500ft full board push.
Splitter climbing!
Golden granite
Bloody paws
Cumbre!
A huge thanks to the American Alpine Club
And the Live Your Dream Grant
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 04:09am PT
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Should of bought insulated boots!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 05:01am PT
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Just to get a can of Gas!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:22am PT
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:29am PT
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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Splitter!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:41am PT
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:43am PT
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Awesome, so sick! Well done amigos.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:46am PT
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Hey Dave.., I got a plan if you still big wall? ;)
Congrats on the new casa by the way.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:49am PT
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Awesome.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jan 24, 2015 - 07:50am PT
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excited to see this written up in more detail in something like the AAJ
way to send!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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Amy has the whole trip coming soon... From journal entries while climbing the wall. But...we left them in the tent.
Lots of time storm bound!
So, We head back for the South Tower.... Then when we get out, she'll start writing. She is a far better author then I. Thanks for all the support, more pictures to come.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 24, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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way to send guys, ggod luck completing the trifecta, steve
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jan 24, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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Truly fantastic, you two! An amazing achievement. Looking forward to the entire narrative. Be safe.
No doubt we'll run into you again in Lone Pine.
BAd
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 24, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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"looks fun" says a regular human, who enjoys a warm bed and wifi. Glad you guys had an awesome experience, y'all deserve it!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Wow. Amazing. Can't wait to read the extended version!
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MtnDeb
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 09:22am PT
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VERY impressive! I am so tickled for you both! Hope your toes revive themselves soon. Love you two little bad asses ~
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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Major congrats! That looked full value, to put it mildly. That place sucks, weather wise. ;-)
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