Kicking around in the Tuolumne Meadows, summer 07

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 21, 2006 - 03:15am PT
So far we've been just kicking about the Meadows, sort of floating with no real direction or purpose (well, at least not for this post). So here are some pictures of us lazing about on a bunch of really mellow climbs...

...after an interesting morning working on the "This Old Route" project, Gary and I went and knocked off Pippin 5.9, on Mountaineer's Dome. Gary flaking the rope:


And some where lost up on the route, I ran out the first pitch to the full 70 m, here is Gary finding a 1/4" button head with a Leaper hanger, the very epitome of security


The next weekend we went over to do some easy routes on Dozier Dome, here is Gary on the first pitch of White Lie 5.8


and me sitting around on the ledge, pretty day

I like my Acopa Chameleons!

We also did Scandalous Summer 5.6, and on Errett Out 5.6, we messed up and moved over to the next route at the top of the first belay. Here is Gary moving right (west) and hitting the second pitch of Bit-by-Bit. If you do this the pitch above the anchor is a 70m run out with no pro to the top... that would be my lead, spicy!

don't do this! just climb straight up, you'll eventually find a bolt.

The walk off of Dozier Dome to the west is beautiful.


Last weekend my dear old friend Lawrence came out from Salt Lake City to climb. We have been climbing together for at least 25 years, though not so much lately... Lawrence has started rock climbing again after a longish hiatus... we climbed around on Saturday and then did Shagadelic 5.8, on Medlicott Dome on Sunday. Here is Lawrence following the second pitch


and leading the third pitch

PROUD!

and the shot at the top (once again, I blew it on the last pitch and wandered all over creation... gee, you just go straight up! couldn't recall the topo after a few hours, I must be getting old)

Lawrence has a big smile! it is a big smile day!!
Standing Strong

Mountain climber
the trail
Sep 21, 2006 - 03:17am PT
NICE. Thank you for sharing! :)



i love this one best
i love blue sky days
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Sep 21, 2006 - 09:52am PT
Cool photos, nice looking routes. Which day did you take those, so that I can be sure to enjoy that nice weather when I catch up? :-)
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Sep 21, 2006 - 11:04am PT
Ed, I knew you were into physics, but I never would have guessed you would be the first to master time travel. Into the future no less! Bravo on the pics!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 11:27am PT
Russ, I was thinking about the thread title just as I was falling off to sleep, "did I put the wrong year there?"

Time travel, eKat, the last weeks of the federal fiscal year, and just getting too old to keep a thought stuck for very long.

Anway, I suspect the only harm is someone might think the thread is about next year... next year, well who knows what that will bring, maybe more bluebird-sky days and wonderful trips ambling up a vertical sea of perfect knobs.

So sorry for the confusion, y'all that are confused. With each passing moment we race to our demise. Don't forget to look around and take in each of those moments.

Happy summer to you all at SuperTopo, 06, 07, and beyond.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Sep 21, 2006 - 11:45am PT
no worries Ed... at the post office not long ago I wrote a check and put something like 1979 on it for the date.... then I had to ask them what year it really was! Brain fart???
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Sep 21, 2006 - 05:02pm PT
Are you saying this is not 07?
Misha

Trad climber
Woodside, CA
Sep 21, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
I climbed Erret Out some time ago too. The route finding on the first two pitches is not trivial! It is 5.7 btw (2nd pitch it is).
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Sep 21, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
Yeah like they said, great photos and anecdotes, and truly amazing how you can so accurately previsualize next summer with that sort of accuracy!
Standing Strong

Mountain climber
the trail
Sep 21, 2006 - 06:56pm PT
Pfft. 06', 07', who cares! We knew what you meant.

what's the deal with Scandalous Summer - what is like? That sounds fun, just cuz of the route name. I hope to do some climbing in the meadows next month, tell us more about this route! It sounds like the summer I just had! :)
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Sep 21, 2006 - 07:05pm PT
Nice photos and commentary, Ed. TM is such a wonderful place. I haven't been there is way too long. But I don't hate you. Really, I don't.

Roger
Frozenwaterfalls

Ice climber
California
Sep 21, 2006 - 07:41pm PT
Ed,

Since you seem to know the more "obscure" routes on Dozier Dome, did you or someone you know put up the route Ripples by any chance? I met the FA team when I was there to climb Holdless Horror and they described the route to me quite well. Too bad I started a bit too far to the left and ended up using two 1/4 bolts and a 00 behind a flake as my first gear before traversing way right and finding the true Ripples route. Neither Ripples nor the two old bolts are in the newest Falcon Tuolumne guide nor the Supertacos. I found it quite fun (when I was on the correct route) and nice to do if there was a line on Holdless Horror. Some bolts, some gear, all fun. Anyway, I hoped I would meet up with the FA guys again at the grill but never did see them again. Anyone know these fellows? They put up some of the routes on Dozier to climbers left of Holdless Horror as well.
CF

climber
Sep 21, 2006 - 08:16pm PT
try
http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org
for info on the new routes at dozier.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Sep 21, 2006 - 08:20pm PT
Nice pics! When I saw the title, I thought you were taking a sabbatical!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 21, 2006 - 08:20pm PT
Nice shots Ed!
(If I can keep the decade in the proper ballpark I feel satisfied).

Oh Man,
On some of those Meadows routes with a bolt way out off the belay, if you take off on the wrong heading things can get pretty scary. Just a degree or two left or right of the proper path and 70 feet later you can be many, many feet sideways from the precious 1/4" spinner.

I did this on the second pitch of Screams and Dreams and ended up 70 ft out and 30 ft left of the bolt quivering in my boots until someone dropped me a rope from above, (ahem, a maneuver sometimes called a rescue).

Black Bart on Daff is pretty neato and I'd been given good beta on the proper groove to ascend on one of the upper pitches; good thing I thought as you'd be verclimpsed somethin' heavy if you went up the wrong groove...
Standing Strong

Mountain climber
the trail
Sep 21, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
cf i registered on your site and asked, but maybe someone else can answer - is scandalous summer in the photo topo? or just in the book? how long will it take to download on a dial-up? can you just buy it at the mtn shop? thanks
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
Sep 21, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
George Ridgely and friends put up Ripple on Dozier Dome. I don't have my book in front of me, but George gave me a printout from a web site of his with the beta. I believe they also put up Loud and Obnoxious (10a) and about 3 other routes there as well (Bull Dozier).
May try to do some of those tomorrow.
cheers
Frozenwaterfalls

Ice climber
California
Sep 22, 2006 - 12:56am PT
Thanks for the info on the FA and where to get topos for Dozier! I will have to get the new topo. I must have met George and two of his friends at the base of Dozier after they had finished their climb. They were quite friendly and happy to give me advice on routes not in the books. As I said before, Ripples was quite fun. Whatever I started out on, something that seemed like an abandoned project, was a bit more spicy. I was given the beta of pitch 1 has four bolts and small gear. When I got to the first 1/4 incher, I was thinking...hmmm...those guys seemed really nice and I can't believe they would be this cheap. Second 1/4 incher I was really thinking hard about what I was on. By the time I placed the 00 C3 behind a flake I was pondering whether those guys would seriously sandbag a chick wearing a pink hat and a bit hopeful grin full well knowing there is a special level of hell for people who do that. Nope, they had given me good beta, I just found the wrong bolts to start on. Once I was back on route with the nice shiny well placed Metolius bolts and larger sized small gear placements, and actual ripples, not gold patina - things were good!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2006 - 01:12am PT
StandingStrong, I think the routes over there are way fun, you can start at one side of Dozier Dome and climb the climbs across to the other side... take two 60m ropes and you can rap most everything instead of the walkoff, but on your last climb to the top do the walk off!

Chris' (CF) site refered to above is a great place to get additional info on this cliff.

Hey Roger, anytime you're out this way you have an instant posse of climbing partners... I will rearrange my schedule and play hookie in the Meadows!

You probably don't recognize this bolt, you or Tom McCabe put it in over 33 years ago, of course it was a whole Dolt hanger, not the broken one you see here


there is a 3/8" SS Powers anchor with a thick Metolius hanger on it now


I still need to get up and do the rest... maybe soon...
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Sep 22, 2006 - 01:19am PT
Thanks Ed for the Photos and TRs.
Actually thanks everyone for the good info in the rest of the thread. So far I've missed out on TM this year. Still time though.
See ya soon,
Zander
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