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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 16, 2015 - 10:30am PT
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I was looking for my scans of the FA of Silver Strand but I could not find them. Have to start again. I did find these scans from the FA of California Ice in Montana. Ed Barry, Chad Chadwick and I did this climb in late Dec of 1977 or Jan. of 1978. Our friend Jim Williams lived in Montana and told us about this big frozen waterfall he had seen. He convinced Ed and I to travel to Montana to check it out. When we got there he wasn't real forth coming about exactly where it was. We busied ourselves with shorter established ice routes in the area reveling in the cold weather which seemed so different than the hit or miss conditions out in California. Among other things we climbed a little route I believe called Silver Falls. The reason Jim acted somewhat devious, I believe, was that he was planning to leave town over Christmas and didn't want to miss out on the adventure. Can't say that I blame him. Once Jim left town we went to the one place he didn't take us--East Rosebud Canyon. It was Christmas day and we skied back into the canyon and there it was. We spent the whole day exploring and got back to the car at dusk and had a mini epic getting Ed's two wheel drive car out of the canyon. What a way to spend Christmas day. I can't remember how we met Chad...it must have been through Jim. He was interested in climbing the route as well so we teamed up. We did the approach and fixed the first pitch which Ed led. After a bivy at the base we ascended to our high point and Chad led a second pitch and I the third which brought us to the top of the steep section. Ed started up the fourth pitch which was really nice but not as steep. All his screws were plugged with ice and he couldn't get any pro in. He didn't feel comfortable continuing but noticed that behind a sheet of icicles on his left was what appeared to be a cave. He broke through the icicles and entered this amazing chamber. The floor was perfectly flat water ice. It had a rock roof and a front wall of icicles. Feeling quite secure in here he belayed me up and I finished the fourth pitch. This was the end of the main part of the climb. I think we did a rappel and then descended a gully to the right of the waterfall back to the base. A great little adventure![photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photoid=394746]id=394745]id=394743]id=394741]id=394739]id=394738]id=394737]id=394735]id=394734]id=394733]id=394732]id=394730]id=394729]id=394728]id=394727]id=394726]id=394725]
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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Jan 16, 2015 - 10:34am PT
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taco-syntax:
{left bracket} photoid = ###### {right bracket}
Nice photo share Mr. Chappy.
If you fix it in the OP I will delete it here.
CHAPPY'S PICTURES FOLLOW:
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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Don't know what I did wrong with the photos. The order is reversed and they didn't post!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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Thanks Bill. Not sure how to fix things.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 16, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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nice ice. looks like dinner plate city.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 16, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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HA! When I was in Montana I looked at this flow and wondered why was it named that!
Thank you for posting, cool stuff!
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jan 16, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
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refer to the feature as break leg falls and locals will assume you're familiar with the events that preceeded your success there chappy.
listening to ed's stoke about the place, and particularly his description of the crystal palace set me on a course of conversion to montanan for the next couple decades.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 16, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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Probably my all time favorite ice climb. Those first two pitches are completely awesome. We did it to the top of the 4th once ande then went left out of the gulley as the snow was too deep and got up to the plateau, but there was another big pitch or two above the 4th and north of the gulley that forms CAICE. Anyone know if those pitches have been done?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 16, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
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Memorial Day weekend 2014.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 16, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
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Awesome!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Jan 16, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
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Nice story and great photos.
I'm curious how this nesting took place. All the photos got embedded in one long statement. Photo 394746 was the deepest and the only one which got the right syntax (replace "phydo" with "photo" below and you get the effect you got initially.
[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[phydoid=394746]id=394745]id=394743]id=394741]id=394739]id=394738]id=394737]id=394735]id=394734]id=394733]id=394732]id=394730]id=394729]id=394728]id=394727]id=394726]id=394725]
[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photoid=394745]id=394743]id=394741]id=394739]id=394738]id=394737]id=394735]id=394734]id=394733]id=394732]id=394730]id=394729]id=394728]id=394727]id=394726]id=394725]
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 16, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
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For some reason the photo upload system leaves the cursor in the middle of the photo string.. so the next photo gets imbedded in the middle of the first string. Move the cusor to the end of the string after each upload before continuing with next photo.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Jan 16, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
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Good P.I. work rockermike.
Whenever something goes wrong computer-wise, I think of:
"gimme cookie"
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wedge
Ice climber
Billings,mt
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Jan 19, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Hay Mark,
Fun to see your post and the photo's on California Ice. Have a bit more info for you. Maybe 2 years earlier I had spotted the waterfall.The next season Jim and i made a try on it. On the 2nd pitch Jim took a good fall breaking his ankle. We bivied at the base of the fall ( had sleeping bags) spent the rest of the next day getting down. Jim got all the way back to the car on his own power!! May have meet Ed that summer before??When he came up visit Jim? Any way that next Christmas i got a call for you 2, with a invite for anther try.
With a little luck would be fun to go climbing again, this spring?
Chad
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jan 19, 2015 - 05:52pm PT
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hey chad, welcome aboard!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 19, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
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Second that Welcome Chad. Met you at the 2012 Bozeman Festival where I had a couple of ice gear tables set up. Did you guys take photos when you were out climbing around Bozeman and elsewhere? Stick around and talk about your climbing. You guys got away with some wild stuff way back when...
This is a start unless you want to start a thread of your own.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1749194&msg=1772932#msg1772932
Great thread Mark and nice job making it all happen on the Phatness. The 70s were good for plums...frozen or otherwise!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 05:57pm PT
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Chad
Great to hear from you! It was such a fun adventure. Its hard to fathom how many years have passed since we did that climb. I am trying to find time to climb more--lots of work the last 15/20 years. Haven't ice climbed in ages. I found one more photo of you leading pitch 2. Its a cool photo and I will try and post it soon. If you ever make it out to California get in touch.
Chappy
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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One more thing: Good effort by Jim getting down with a broken ankle. That's quite a slog! Couldn't have been a comfortable night for him. Too bad he couldn't have joined us.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 30, 2015 - 07:06pm PT
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hey there say, chappy mark... :)
wow, WOW, i did not see this before... wow... i was impressed so much, by the story of the other ice climb, (widow's tears story) ... whewww... :O
as i did not even know you did this...
so now, i see this... this is REALLY NEAT... wow, thanks so much for sharing... i love all this photos very much!!!!
hugs from the ol' sis, here...
:)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 30, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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hey there say, bill... nice to see you, wow, thanks for setting the chappy pics, as well...
mike m:
neat pic, there, simple and clean view, of the ice shape...
thanks so much, guys... :)
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