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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:30am PT
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i am going tomorrow!!!
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:44am PT
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Moose and the Beached Whale want a current-conations mosquito report.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:58am PT
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Will there be Guide Books for sale at this August deal??
I like to give my $$$ to the dude who sells them out of the back of the truck and not REI.
and the mosquitoes will be out in huge numbers, hungry and horny.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 28, 2017 - 09:09am PT
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No mosquitoes on Power Dome...ever. Moderate mosquitoes at Wishon while camping.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 28, 2017 - 09:21am PT
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what about when the sun is going down and your drinking cold ones?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2017 - 05:42pm PT
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So, in my working through K. Daniels publishing, probably the best places to get the guide are through his website, Fresno REI or Fresno MetalMark. Been trying to get them into the Wishon store, but I don't have the ability to sell out of the back of the car.
As Kevin and his business has done such an exceptional job of putting this book together (as well as Kris' Needles Guide) purchases need to be made the standard way...sorry...d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
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...also hope to see ya all up there in August...how cool that rendezvous will be...d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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[photoid=503665]
Not until researching the book did I realize how cool Wishon really is...a couple shots from last week's Mighty Lemon Drop Wall FA...(yikes, not in guide). Barry and Kevin Mazzacco also put in a new .10a on Kingsnake Wall..."Doug Quits".
Gotta love our back yard!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Fly, anyone tried to get into Hoff yet?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
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Don't know, but I'm sure it is open and snow free by now
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 10, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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Munge......focus! Now get well so we can go to the OTHER place FIRST!!!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 10, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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Trying to get a hold of you Flydude!
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jul 26, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
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Flydude,
Thanks for publishing the new Courtright guidebook. I have noticed a few more people climbing there this summer, which is fine with me.
I don't know if you are starting a list of the few mistakes or need for more clarity in the guidebook (these always happen), but I have noticed that "Bambi And The Ogre" (5.7) on page 136 states that the rappel is 100'. I did this route for the first time this Saturday. The actual rappel length is about 170-190' depending upon what you define as the bottom. A single 60 m rope rappel will leave you in the middle of the face without any anchor. Luckily I had a tag line with me and realized from just looking at the route that the rappel had to be greater than 100'.
The old SeKi guide showed this route further to the right, so I always thought when I was doing this route I was actually doing "Mambo #5".
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jul 30, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
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On Saturday I climbed the route "Little Lambs Eat Ivy" (aka "Little Lamsy Davey") (5.8) *** on Dusy Dome. I saw this route listed in the Seki guide and it has always intrigued me. It is quite a hike out to this climb, but worth it. The approach is well described in the new guidebook, but I thought I would add some fine details. Do not try approaching by going along the base of Penstemon Dome, but rather move through the woods below Penstemon Dome, below the bushes, aiming for the right edge of Penstemon Dome. Then follow the base of the east face of Penstemon Dome. Where you see a short distance between the east face base slab and talus below Dusy Dome, go through bush and aspen to the talus and then go up the talus to the base of Dusy Dome.
Although the Seki guide and the new guidebook lists six bolts on the first pitch, there are actually seven bolts. The last bolt is hard to spot since it has not been replaced with Fixe hangers like the others, but it is out on the face to the left from the sixth bolt and is between the sixth bolt and the three bolt belay/rappel station.
The Seki guide and the new guidebook lists no protection on the 5.5 second pitch if you go straight up, but there are six lead protection bolts now. These bolts are the same Fixe type as on the first pitch. I did not do the right 5.7 crack variation on the second pitch, but it looked like it would be hard to get protection into this thin crack. The traverse from the belay station to the crack across the face also does not have any protection. If you did this variation, when the crack ended, you could move left and use the last two lead protection bolts of the regular 5.5 climb. I also did not do the left 5.6 crack variation on the second pitch, but the original protection bolt for the section between where the crack ends and the belay/rappel station is still there. The traverse from the belay station to this left crack looks more reasonable than the traverse to the right crack.
Only one of the hangers at the top of the second pitch has permanent rappel rings. The other hanger had some old webbing and rappel rings. I did not have a quicklink, so I replaced the webbing with some cord. The rappel lengths in the new guidebook are not quite correct or are missing. The rappel length of the first pitch to the very bottom is probably 170-180', but is about 160' to a ledge which can then be descended off to the right. The rappel length on the second pitch is probably 140-160'.
If someone does the adjacent climb "Dusy Dotes" (5.10b, R), you might want to consider bringing an adjustable wrench. A hanger and a nut on one of the bolts was sticking out about 3/4" from the rock face. I tried to hand-tighten the nut while rappelling down from the first pitch of "Little Lamb ...", but I was not able to fully hand tighten the nut down to the hanger on the rock face. The bolt studs stick out quite a bit from the rock on this route, so I think the holes were not drilled to the full length of the bolts.
Today I did the excellent first pitch of "Kelsey's Klimb" (5.10c) on the east face of Power Dome. The first pitch is 5.8 and is an excellent climb by itself, as the new guidebooks notes. Although the topo shows only bolts for protection on the first pitch, there are a few places where cams up to 1.0 size can be placed and protect long sections between bolts and a move over a small roof. Only one of the anchors at the top has permanent rappel rings. I removed some faded cord on the other bolt and replaced it with new cord and rappel rings, but it would be nice to put in a quicklink instead of the cord.
If someone lost a rack of cams probably last year or earlier below the climbs "Time Is A Story Teller" and "Pork My Spankupine" on the east face of Power Dome, let me know the tape colors and the approximate sizes of cams so that I can arrange to return them to you. These cams were below the snow for at least one season and several of them are rusted solid, but a few of them still work. My e-mail is markf eight four five at gmail.com (change the written numbers to actual numbers).
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 31, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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I just got the new guide yesterday and I am really looking forward to reading it. First thing I noticed though was that my name was correct in some places but wrong in others. I hope these sorts of details are not indicative of the route information also being inconsistent.
Yeah, yeah, I know, I am a selfish b@st@rd.
Jan McCollum
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Does anyone know where this is available? Local REI doesn't have it. Barring that, what is the actual title and publisher? Thanx-lars
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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en route thanx mooch-lars
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2017 - 11:17pm PT
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Aug 28, 2017 - 01:39am PT
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Good going Linda, Ed, and Bela. Nice to see everyone this week-end.
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