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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 12, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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Thanks Barry and Jeremy. I forgot about that number to the Prather office.
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Matt's
climber
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
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bump... just bought the guidebook-- had always wanted to go here, now I have a good excuse!
Do you know if this area is dog friendly?
best,
matt
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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Access to some crags may pose an issue due to the technical nature of getting to their bases. Being a dog owner myself, the Forest Service has been pretty cool about dogs. Pretty much the norm....just be a responsible dog owner, which I'm sure you are. :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:26pm PT
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My wife and I will be there Tuesday, looking forward to it!
Vitaliy and I were signed up for the REI show but didn't make it back in time from a climb so I'm happy to see I get a second chance!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:29pm PT
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Do you know if this area is dog friendly?
There's probably a "dogs on leash" rule in the fee campgrounds, but nowhere else. I've never seen coyotes up there either. There might be big cats, but I've not seen a sign of them.
The biggest risk to a dog is probably tangling with a nest of those damn meat bees. It was right around 1990 they killed a woman on a horse when the it stepped into a nest.
The only thing that type of wasp is good for is cleaning all the central valley bugs off your radiator, AC condenser, and front of your car in general. They'll leave it spit clean.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 13, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
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Live from the slideshow!!!
Thanks for a fantastic guide Dwight! Great story about the pipe bursting by the way!
Scott
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 13, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
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Ya, thanks for a great show and guide! Really enjoyed the bits of history.
Now it just needs a bit more dirt and folded pages...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2017 - 11:26am PT
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There are big coyotes and big cats and bears.....and Meat Bees and misquotes.
The place is very dog friendly, but having your buddy with you will limit where you can climb at. eg: no powerdome stuff.
One thing about Courtright to keep in mind, esp if your looking to do some of the harder stuff.
Most of the climbs are in the sun for most of the day....this can cause debilitating greasy conditions and make a climber feel like they are being turned into beef jerky. Also, the misquotes and meat bees are fierce-- especially early in the season.
When Kris and I were climbing there a ton, we normally would not go in till after Labor Day Weekend when the nites were getting down around freezing and the day temps in the 60's. Then it was perfect for climbing.
QUESTION: Does PG&E still do the Power House Tour??
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 14, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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I see Tiki-Ger has joined the frequent flyer ranks. I think it must be the MetalMark Meat Market vibe that draws him. ;)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 02:00pm PT
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Guy, 90 degrees and sun are perfect sending conditions if you're from the valley :)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2017 - 02:36pm PT
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Unless they've resumed, the powerhouse tours got shut down for "homeland security. You know, the same reason Jerry Brown won't let out the true stats on Oroville, can't have them knowing our weak spots...
That pic of guy's shows the top of the whole gig. Those aren't the generators, those are housings for the upper bearings and commutators. The generators extend down 10 floors. Totally awesome deal carved out of solid granite.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 14, 2017 - 02:40pm PT
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Mooch,
Tiki-Jer was there for the free appetizers and hot Yoga class that was in the adjacent room. It was mere coincidence that he stayed for the slide show.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
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Guy, 90 degrees and sun are perfect sending conditions if you're from the valley :)
And your limit is 5.6D Sport :>)
So they do not plow that road?
I thought PG&E had some equipment up their that needed to be maintained.
A 5.6D sport climb
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:00pm PT
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Guyman they plow it year round as there is a skeleton staff for the project there all year as well as some old cabins back on the northwest side that have year round access. The big gate stays closed however unless you have a special key or "know a guy." SO when we say "the road isn't open yet" its just not open to us civilians who want to go climb and fish early season!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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OK ... so it is open, year round.
I have a friend who did Dogtooth Pk in the winter.... she told me... "walk on the road to the lake"... "ski back to the peak, climb and ski and walk out" a easy 5 day trip.....
how much for one of those cabins? and a Key to the gate?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 14, 2017 - 07:37pm PT
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I talked to some PG&E workers at Wishon yesterday and when I asked when the road to Courtright would open they said that's up to USFS. I talked to a forest service worker last week on Bald Mountain Trail and when I asked him the same question he said it was up to PG&E. I know someone who has a cabin at Courtright and they said they can't get in and I saw a picture of a snow cat on the road from 5/31/17 on SNF facebook page so I am not sure they plow to the lake.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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And your limit is 5.6D Sport :>) Basically my limit in any conditions, so, yes
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jun 16, 2017 - 09:42pm PT
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Up at the SNFS ranger station they are saying that the road does not get plowed and they are not expecting the road to open until July! Damn!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 17, 2017 - 11:21am PT
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I'm sorry I missed the slideshows. I was ready for the original date of May 6, but, sad to say, the publishers weren't.
Dwight, the guidebook is a real gem. I first climbed at Courtright in 1971 (low and unsuccessful on Power Dome), and have climbed in that area ever since. I think you capture both the routes and the spirit of the climbing superbly. Your description of the approach to Roadside Rock at Wishon is worth the price of the entire book.
Thanks for the good work.
John
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 28, 2017 - 06:28am PT
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The road opened yesterday afternoon, time to check the veracity of the new guidebook.
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