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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 20, 2006 - 04:02pm PT
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Wow, Mal...You must have come close to the ground. I was surprised that you found SG to be the hardest too since I use the face more on that one than a lot of the others that you mentioned. The 2nd pitch of Cookie Center is a pretty wicked intro to the Valley as well.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Sep 20, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
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Great shots of the Rostrum! Thought it was worthy of a slight modification: more crimps, less ropes...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
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cooool. :)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 20, 2006 - 07:20pm PT
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Melissa,
My guess is that Arno and Crimpergirl just did the first pitch of Cookie Center, as a warmup and approach to Waverley Wafer.
But I could be wrong - the ow pitch on Cookie Center could be a good way to check ow skills for the Rostrum?
Riley - That flake on the right wall of the 5.10d corner pitch of Rostrum is called Uprising - 5.11b fist (could be ow for folks with small hands).
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 20, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
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Blind Faith? I should have taken more photos.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Sep 20, 2006 - 07:34pm PT
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The first pitch of Blind Faith is one of the best splitter's in the park, a gradually widening flush crack with a fair stretch of rattly fingers and thin hands. The upper crux is easier than below. Haven't done the Uprising but I remember when it was first done by Kevin Fosburg and Jordy Morgan in the mid to late 80's. Cupped hands to fist crack w/ face climbing entry moves-enduro pitch- Looks clean and classic
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 20, 2006 - 11:59pm PT
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Hi Crimpy,
Thanks for the TR. Now that you're warmed up, next time you'll lead it all.
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 21, 2006 - 01:02am PT
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agreed, DK. I've climbed that pitch 3 or 4 times, and only had someone that would do the rest of the route with me, once.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Sep 21, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
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Finally, Something that makes me want to keep looking at this forum. Thanks for the TR Crimpie. You two are just glowing in that summit shot, like you just had a good time or something. :-)
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CathC
Sport climber
Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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great photos of the valley, good climbing thanks for sharing...
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Sep 21, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
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? "Stone Groove" is a face climb. There's a 5.10b face move that lets you get by the rattly fingers.
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Sep 21, 2006 - 03:11pm PT
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where did you guys stay each night?
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
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Ha! None the less, Stone Groove whooped me. We stayed at a friend's house right outside the park entrance. Very nice to have a shower and bed each night...
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Sep 21, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
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Not to diverge from the topic at hand, but have you ever climbed Stone Wave down at T-Wall? Bouldery crux right off the ground (before you place any gear) and then fire off a sweet crack with a cool 'wave' feature at 2/3 height.
The valley is an addicting place. Glad you got on something long and free. Gotta get down to T-wall and dial in those crack skills so you can get back out there on the sharp end. Hanging off solid jams on the sharp end with a thousand feet of air under your heels while the wind blows up the wall is something not to miss.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 10:15pm PT
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Burns: My first trip to T-wall is soon. I was there ogling it months ago, but it was far too hot..... Can't wait...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Sep 21, 2006 - 10:35pm PT
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Nice post and Valley trip Crimper. We should all have it so good. Best, Roger
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Sep 22, 2006 - 12:05am PT
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A little late for reply Jaybro but I don't get in much. Anyway, I never did the uppers but I bet they are killer! I usually like em' skinny but I sure won't turn down a fatty. Someday maybe-
DK
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
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For those interested in the bruises, here they are. I took this photo two days ago.
:)
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Ouch!
climber
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Sep 22, 2006 - 11:40pm PT
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Mountain Man
Trad climber
Outer space
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Sep 23, 2006 - 01:19am PT
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Nice slippers!
Ouch-you are no gentleman.
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