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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 15, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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hey there say, Oplopanax...
man oh man! thanks for the great piece of ROCK PIC here...
never knew or heard of this... hee hee, but then, i
know all that i DO know, from the taco, here... :)
thanks for sharing and asking everyone about this...
say, wow, clint, thanks for the great 'far view' here...
shows just what i needed to see, to learn more...
thank you...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 15, 2016 - 08:49pm PT
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Thanks for the post above.
I'll second that.
And add a request for more from you. There are quite a few of us here on Supertopo who have spent time in the Rexford/Slesse area, and it would be great to hear more stories.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Aug 21, 2016 - 09:06pm PT
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Brette Harrington and I topped out the wall after spending a total of eight days working on our new line, sleeping on the porta ledge . It would have gone in a day or two as an aid route (A2) but we put in the time to clean and prepare all the pitches and free the route. 11 pitches, 5.12c. Reminiscent of University Wall in Squamish, although with less unusual chimney climbing, and more straight endurance crack climbing and more sustained overall. I am pleased that we established the line ground up and without the use of any fixed lines, which seems less and less frequent in Squamish these days,no doubt due to the general proximity of 'home' when climbing on the chief which this particular wall lack. It is very much like the NorthWalls although larger and featured in a way more similar to Index. A very gratifying experience overall.
I remember first seeing the wall 8 years ago, at the ages 15, en route to my first attempt at Slesse's NE buttress. Very cool to return and make the FA of the feature, no less to watch the pocket glacier slide in the process!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 21, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
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Thanks for the info! Way to go.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Aug 21, 2016 - 09:32pm PT
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A couple photos. Of p2' and p5, both 12b.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 21, 2016 - 09:33pm PT
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That works
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Aug 22, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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That looks pretty legit.
Was there a lot of scrubbing to do despite the steepness?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 22, 2016 - 09:05am PT
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thanks for the pics micro_marc
it is an awesome thing, the succession of climbing generations. Looking at the images of that wall an anxiety boiled up in my very center, thinking just how I might go about establishing a route, knowing that I had no answer to that. Being there would be overwhelming, and touching the rock electrifying. For me there would be no way to overcome even that, let alone control enough to start.
But successive generations of climbers have learned what they need to climb those climbs deemed by their predecessors as "impossible" or at least "impossible for me." I cannot touch 5.12 on most days, and those days are dwindling. So it is truly amazing to me, and gratifying, to see you all work out those problems that could only be a fantasy to me. Dream on!
Congrats on your ground up ascent, a proud style that I think we all aspire to, and especially when going to these great places.
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Bill Noble
climber
Golden BC
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Sep 11, 2016 - 09:15am PT
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The complex wall easily visible from Slesse N.E.B. has drawn many an eyeball. Two attempts were made on the middle line (called The Warlock back then) in 1986 and 1987 by Nick Jones (the opal, silver surfer, etc.), Kirt Sellers (mercy street, bong king, etc.) and Bill Noble. All bolts by hand and hammer. It felt quite remote at the time.
We did not spend any time prepping the wall...in fact I don't think the thought even passed through our minds...it was the eighties remember. Sport climbing was in embryo and what's all this about plastic holds and indoor climbing? Nevah!! My how times have changed. Plenty of great lines left to do on this captivating aesthetic alpine feature. Get out your crow bars, bolt guns and fly at'er.
A curious small world aside is that Marc-Andre (and Brett Harrington) also recently skied the N.E. Couloir on Lady Peak first ascended by Sellers, Noble and Peter Cooper. Quit messing with our old 80's lines Marc-Andre LeClerc!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 10, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
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Bump
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2016 - 10:42am PT
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Hey Bill, I missed your reply in September. Thanks for updating us with the history.
Here's some pics of another Jones/Sellars local feature still waiting for a second ascent... the Nesakwatch Notch!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2016 - 10:46am PT
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And thanks for confirming that it was you and Steve Must on the Beckey exploration, Mark!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2016 - 10:58am PT
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One more, CPW in winter (I took this on a flight with John Scurlock in 2008). Too steep to hold snow!
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Bill Noble
climber
Golden BC
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Dec 20, 2016 - 07:51pm PT
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 20, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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The bitter descent.
Don't know which is who in that last photo, but is the guy on the left wearing the Chinese Puzzle Jacket?
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Bill Noble
climber
Golden BC
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Dec 20, 2016 - 07:55pm PT
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Bill Noble
climber
Golden BC
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Dec 20, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
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The bitter descent photo....Kirt Sellers on the left sporting his favourite big wall shirt. Nick Jones on the right.
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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Dec 21, 2016 - 12:41pm PT
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Thanks for sharing the photos Bill. It appears that your chosen line is to the right of where we climbed.
I led a couple of trickier pitches to outflank loose blocks which were later trundled on rappel to open the free climbing.
So many routes to do on this wall.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Thanks for sharing the pics Bill!
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