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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 27, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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I've heard that there have been up to three attempts on this baby, which faces Slesse's east side from across the valley.
I know very little about the first two. One of them may have been by Beckey, but I don't know who his partners were for it, and he's sidestepped the question when I tried to ask him about it in the past.
It apparently saw one other attempt that I know nothing at all about except second- or third-hand mention that it happened.
I think both of these were aid climbing attempts.
The most recent attempt was by some strong Fraser Valley climbers and I am told they did free climbing up to 12- but bailed below the top of the wall due to large loose blocks.
Given that a "Chinese puzzle" is one of the ones where you slide tiles around, perhaps this loose block problem is endemic to the wall.
I would be interested in finding out more about the history of this feature. Post up if you know anything.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 27, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
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wild looking! good questions.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
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the more relevant shot to answer the OP question would be of the bowl at the base of the face, and the runout from that bowl...
I'd guess the "fun" part is getting into the dark, peripheral rock, which looks like it's been exposed to erosion longer than the face, which was probably exposed relatively recently (in geological time), the over layer having fallen off.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
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Here's a distance shot of the wall and environs for you Ed.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
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And one more - looking up the gully at the base from a close helicopter fly by in spring a couple years back
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 01:38pm PT
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(in)famous phrase: "it doesn't look too bad"
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 27, 2014 - 03:10pm PT
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That looks like a proper wall right there.
Nobody has topped out an aid route yet?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 27, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
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I think it's hilarious that Beckey wouldn't give you answers when you asked! Either he doesn't remember because it was a hundred years ago, or he's still saving his project there....HA!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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There's a comment in the Steve Must 1995 CAJ article "Rambles with Fred" which I'd guess is about the Chinese Puzzle.
Mark Maffe was likewise drawn into the fray as Fred spoke in vague terms about big, clean, untouched granite. We initially scouted out an impressive wall near the Chilliwack River valley, but it looked like a serious and demanding project. As I asked Fred about the slings and bolt stations a few pitches off the ground, he began to rave about a great climb that he hadn't finished [further east]
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
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That looks kind of sketchy!
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Beautiful, but terrifying. I think I'll scout my project from my chair for a bit. ;)
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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... calling Bruce Kay, please report for duty...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 27, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
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That shadowed gash at the base (right side) would be my first choice, trending left to the summi.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 27, 2014 - 10:34pm PT
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Geez, with such a casual approach and descent I'm surprised there aren't
eight routes on it. But, seriously, it doesn't look more than a 1000' to me.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
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Didn't Guy Edwards get on it once?
Not that I know of.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 28, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Here's another shot, showing approach terrain in 2007.
Obviously it's steep, and the approach looks like a hassle with the bushwhacking
and then hauling your stuff up the gully.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 29, 2014 - 12:23am PT
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Hell, there's an old logging road, let's go!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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In Clint's pic you can see the sinuous gully at far left and obvious forested ramp that was used on the FA to approach the West Buttress of North Illusion.
Continuing on this ramp and then dropping in by rappel to the base of the CPW would seem to be one option if the direct gully approach to the base fizzles. But given that people have made it to the base before, presumably the direct gully or forest to the right are "good enough" options.
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Mark MAFFE
climber
all the world's a climb
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Aug 15, 2016 - 02:27am PT
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Wow, amazing to see this...the memories come flooding back. This was one of many memorable times I was "drawn into the fray" with Fred and the late Steve Must during the early 90's. I first met Fred and Steve in China in 92 and I think this was about 2 years later. Long story short, our attempt was not successful and unlike many times where Fred had made the call to back down off of a first ascent attempt with me, this time I felt very little sense of letdown or unfulfillment. That thing was spooky...After the steep approach up through the trees with bear scat everywhere, we arrived at the base and were awestruck by how steep it was. Steve and I knew knew it would be really hard and felt we had the ability....but Fred made the common sense call that it was too "dangerously committing" and he was right. Most of the wall is overhanging, especially the first section and full of huge, continuous flakes that looked like they were just waiting to dislodge. The climbing lingo at the time "double grand piano sized" did not do those things justice. It was like looking up at a giant bookshelf leaning over us, overstuffed with giant books about to come toppling out, or pieces of a huge puzzle standing up on its side, loosely held together, somehow defying gravity's pull. The wall was unnamed at the time but whoever came up with "Chinese puzzle" hit the nail on the head.
The only sign we saw of other climbers was some slings about 2 rope lengths up and Fred's theory was they were left by Peter Croft on an earlier attempt. I asked Peter about this a few years ago but had a tough time referencing much about the area so he was unsure if we were talking about the same thing. Like most of my adventures with Fred, I was not paying much attention to the details. He was the man with the plan and I was just hanging on during the constant wild ride that was climbing and traveling with him. I find myself reflecting on the gut busting laughs we had as much, if not more than exhilarating moments on the rocks, and I did see Fred do truly amazing feats on the sharp end more than once.
Cool to hear others have done it now...very bold stuff requiring serious cojones no doubt. Maybe it's not as loose as it looked? I don't see many more puzzle pieces in the talus than I did 20 odd years ago:-)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 15, 2016 - 08:00pm PT
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Thanks for the post above.
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