Ambush Peak - Winds?

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2014 - 10:34am PT

embed from SP.com

Stunning looking peak. Saw it mentioned on the Fowler interview thread, so had to check it out.

Any stories? Approach heinous? Routes?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 18, 2014 - 10:54am PT
A number of routes are described on Mountain Project, http://www.mountainproject.com/v/east-fork-valley/105845558. SteveA posts here and knows a lot about the face.

Joe Kelsey, Barbara Thacher and I did something on the NE face BITD that doesn't seem to be described on MP. It ended up at the summit but I think climbed left of the routes described on MP. I had to improvise some aid up a dripping wet overhang that could definitely be climbed free if a bit drier (or wet as it was by someone better than me). I think we had a pitch of 5.9 and quite a few in the 5.7--5.8 range. My guess at the time was that the overhang, if a little drier, would go free at 5.10---there were certainly holds and jams available.
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