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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2014 - 01:20am PT
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Vitaliy i will PM you when i have some online time..
you better post a topo when this thing is done :)
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The Alpine
climber
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Dec 23, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
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V - looks like you've got quite a gem in the making...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 23, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
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Yeah, the quality and the challenge of pushing the line kept me coming back. It is a crazy experience to establish a line up a 2000 ft face where the likely hood of the next pitch going free seemed slim to none. I would literary go home and have a bunch of semi-sleepless nights because I would be wondering if the pitches ahead were possible. There was also some blank looking spot, roof, or some feature that looked hard as f*#k ahead. So far I redpointed the first 8 pitches in a day (they are something like 11b/c, 11a, 11d, 11b/c or d, 11c, 11a, 11a, 11a. Doing just that was not easy and there is another 8 pitches ahead. There still is an original variation of 8th pitch, move on the 9th pitch and a section on 14th pitch that I did not lead or at least follow/TR clean. Pitches 9, 10, 15 and 16 were led free already. Feels great to push the route to the top and equip 90% of it, but there is still a bit of work left. Freaking cool climbing and setting, what else does one want...one step at a time...have to get in better shape for 2015.
If someone has time to kill, I wrote about it here: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2014/10/summer-highlights-fa-of-emperor-v-511cd.html
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The Alpine
climber
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Dec 23, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
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Dood..... A thing of beauty!
I've got a proposition for you.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Dec 23, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
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Vitaliy: wow! That double dike pitch looks cool!
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Dec 24, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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you got this...
inside is the new outside. welcome to the "New World" my Euro-Friend
some radical Bay Area climber software engineers will soon type code for Google Glasses climbing and we never have to worry about crowds again.
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The Alpine
climber
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May 23, 2015 - 09:30am PT
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Vitally project bump
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