Cali climbing advice needed - gorge of dispair etc.

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Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 18, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
A friend of mine witnessed some interesting goings on out at those Angel Wings one night when an old .22 round that a previous visitor had left in the firepit went off. No real velocity of course, not being in a gun, but it lodged in the roof of his buddies mouth. So if you go there sift through the fire pit :-)
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 18, 2014 - 02:53pm PT
^^^
Holy crap! Who tosses a round in a firepit. Unlucky but lucky at the same time. Reminds me of that story about Bolton Brown or one of the early Sierra climbers getting an ulcerated tooth and his friends unsuccessful efforts to extract it with a bullet mold. They ended up walking out to Fresno in search of a dentist.
Barbarian

climber
Dec 18, 2014 - 03:43pm PT
Ben - Just two words re: your query about Gorge of Despair:

Go there!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Dec 18, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
Did we determine what time of year this was?

CRS would be out for certain times, so would high elevation locations.

Hulk sounds pretty spot on, but is getting popular in the prime season from what I've read.

Gorge sounds wild.
The Alpine

climber
Dec 18, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
Chamberlin is bad ass, but if you're short on time and wanting to hit multiple areas, AND you've never been to the Hulk.... Well, the Hulk is somewhat of a no-brainer. Except for the gangbang you'll inevitably run into.

Word on the street is that Croft was not as psyched on Chamberlin as others...



If you want perfectly splitter granite with nary a speck out of place, go to the Hulk!




Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 18, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
Hulk has a load of routes that don't get as much traffic on the weekends, or have 1 party on them. Polish route, Tradewinds, sun spot are all quality and don't get gang banged like PV and red dihedral. Beeline is arguably better than RD if you take variations. And other harder routes that don't get as much as these classics. So yes, clint is spot on, if you want to have a great climbing vacation go there and stay for a week. I want to do that one day.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 18, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
A nice cushy week at the hulk would be tons of fun, especially if your looking to climb 5.11+ cracks.

A week in the GOD is fun, but most of it is climbing seldom visited rock towers.
Via 5.8 ish

Kris and I did one and we were the third party to summit. The first - some dude named Steck and friends in like 1955, the second was a Kiwi couple who wandered through in 1967, then US in 1994. The place is overrun by climbers!

Desperadoes is a 12 and I don't thinks its had a second. ... YET

On our trips we had 9- 10 days and we used the packer services out of Kings canyon. You can also use the same packers to go to Bubbs Creek. I find this saves your legs and lets you camp in style.

Ahhhhh so much great rock, soo little time.






The Alpine

climber
Dec 18, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
+1 on mules. Using mules is the only way I've ever GAINED weight in the backcountry. Not exactly cheap, but with a few people splitting the price, it aint that bad.

I bet you could get Vitaliy to mule your ropes up to the summit.
nopantsben

climber
europe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2014 - 02:49am PT
Thanks for all the advice. time would be between mid-august and mid september.

Werner's probably right though. I'll just stay in the ditch and vortex hard maybe :-)

If not (ha!) V.'s plan sounds good, Bubbs creek wall looks too premium!

Obviously a week wont be enough ...

thanks a lot!

cheers.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 19, 2014 - 08:37am PT

It is a beautiful place.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Dec 19, 2014 - 09:55am PT
Don't forget to hit up Calaveras Dome. A few days of classic long routes there too.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 19, 2014 - 10:12am PT
V nice shot!!!

Im still looking for the Tower of Daphine. Its in the old guide, Vernon... Kings Canyon.

A 1,000 foot long arête, goes at F7 .... stays on a golden arête, 3 feet wide.

if found please notify ME... I'll buy beer.

Ben.... The Valley is not that good in August, the average daily temp is like 1,000 F. Tons of tourists.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Dec 19, 2014 - 10:22am PT
+1 on Guyman offer!

I love a good mystery!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 19, 2014 - 10:32am PT
Isn't that F7 called Deebee's Arete, or something like that, on Mt. Bago? I'm dating myself but I remember reading about that as a teen when I used to peruse AAJs. That was the only way to find out what people were doing in the Sierra.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 19, 2014 - 10:36am PT
Yes, same thing. I think I found that arete. Was thinking of doing it on one of the days I was up there but than hurt my foot and was too big of a wuss to climb and descent from the back side with a hurt foot. It looks pretty good though.
Little preview from my route on bubbs.


guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 19, 2014 - 10:58am PT
Fat, you might be right, but its in the KK book as Daphane.... dig up the AAJ, please.


V your newest looks fab...let us know when its not a project, please.

Time for a ST meet up, maybe a sushi fest in the backcountry!!!!

The Brown Bear MeetUp
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 19, 2014 - 11:51am PT
Guy is right. Vitaliy's route on Bubbs looks absolutely incredible. I will have to really dig to find that AAJ. We're talking my old room at my parent's house buried...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Dec 19, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
Man, I've sat there looking at Mt. Bago forever on a few occasions trying to figure out where that tower of Daphne route goes. It's a complex chunk of rock with probably a dozen ridges. Worst case scenario, you climb the wrong one and have a great adventure!
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Dec 19, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
Delphina is pretty high on my wishlist too, but most likely a few years out.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 19, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
Fat... your correct DeeBees rib

LEFH... thanks
Messages 21 - 40 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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