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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2014 - 01:29am PT
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After bushwhacking through the internet for quite a while (thanks Ksolem, Vitaliy, limpingcrab and the others :) ) I now know there is good rock in California outside Yosemite and the Needles.
Imagine you had 7 days, a car, and you started on the West side of the Sierra. What is the 7-day-trip climbing long free routes that you would recommend?
Long approaches are completely fine. 5.10 to 5.11 climbs are preferred, but it can be harder/easier. Wide is not so much my thing, choss isn't either.
dankeschön...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:55am PT
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The claims that the walls of Yosemite are over climbed or climbed out are false.
That there are crowds that are rumored to clog the routes is also over blown and wrong harted. The best people that you will meet will be the ones that share your desires.
Waste not want not, if it is a need to feel lost out there go farther out, but if it is your goal to maximize your vertical travel? then go send lines in YOSEMITE !!
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2014 - 04:52am PT
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don't worry, i'll be in the Valley as well making sure some climbs get traffic
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2014 - 07:29am PT
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i've done almost everything i am interested in that is in this book..
the incredible hulk being a notable exception.
also, i am looking for more technically difficult, cleaner stuff than the typical 5.8 arete semi-choss this book covers..
chamberlain, gorge of despair, the fin, castle rocks, bubbs creek wall ... these are the outings that sound super appealing but i am wondering what are the experts choices especially in terms of how to combine two or three of these in a week.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Dec 18, 2014 - 07:35am PT
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If you have enough time before your trip to browse through ~650 mountains pick up a copy of
It's fantastic, and for most routes leaves qute a bit of the adventure alive. 5.10+, Grade IV, one sentence description? Perfect!
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2014 - 07:39am PT
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haha this is the work i was trying to save myself from. in particular because i only have so few days, i am not too keen on spending too much time getting lost and/or disappointed. if i come across the book though, i will buy it.
for once, i am looking for type one fun on one of the very few weeks that i will have off to travel next year.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 18, 2014 - 08:48am PT
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Gorge of Dispare, Castle Rock Spire and many other on your list are most likely not type one fun. They involove long bushwacking (some poison oak too) approaches and would typically be 3-4 days at least. Castle rock you can do with silver linings in 4 days. Bubbs creek has a beer approach I think but it's still back there, bu at least you can do a few different routes while there. You could hit whitney portal/lone pine peak area and do some of the new stuff there. Some cool new 5.11's and 5.12's there that dont require all the BS permits etc...check out myles new line on the bastille buttress, mountain devil dike, strassman memorial, lost of stuff round there
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Busted-On-Bastille/t12580n.html
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/FREEIN-the-WINDHORSE-Lone-Pine-Peak/t11364n.html
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 18, 2014 - 11:04am PT
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Check out the Sierra hit list thread and you'll find some interesting objectives. There is a photo of a route on Mt. Chamberlin (Asleep at the Wheel I think it's called that looks AWESOME). A big route on Chamberlin is on my bucket list for sure.
Bubbs Creek looks terrific and is far easier to find info about and does have a relatively mellow approach from Road's End in King's Canyon NP.
Also check out all the stuff back in Valhalla, out of Crescent Meadow in Sequoia NP. There's Angel's Wings, Cherubim Dome, Sabre Ridge, Mt. Stewart. A ton of good stuff.
The terrific thing about the Sierra is that people just keep finding more and more good stuff. So much awesome stuff still probably waiting to me climbed.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Dec 18, 2014 - 11:57am PT
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http://www.mountainproject.com/v/silk-road-high-times/108385440
Bubbs Creek Wall - if you look up Vitaliy, he has a 3rd high qulity route in the works there as well, so that's 3 day's worth of high quality multipitches.
Check out Angel Wings - I have a trip report on that. Two very high quality routes there and a 4 day trip with all the hiking.
Hulk has at least a few months worth of climbing for you and it's all very fun.
Lots more is out there, but those above I think are some of the best. Bitte sehr!
What season are you thinking about any way? Maybe we can give you better advice if we know your constraints better.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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There is no poison oak in or on the way to the Gorge of Despair. The rock quality is unreal. It would well be worth going in there for a week long trip(1 or 2 days in, 3-4 days there, 1 out.) Take a set of 60M double ropes, a relatively light rack (single set stoppers 1-8, single set tcu's, single set of cams to 3". Some of the older historical climbs have wider cracks but they're totally soloable.) Plan for bears. Plan to be amazed.
You can do the hike in a long day if you carry light and are really, really fast. More like a two day approach for most people carrying climbing gear and supplies. First time I went in took us two and a half daze, with huge loads including everything needed for doing new routes and to camp for a week. Getting back out in a day is reasonable. Bagging the north ridge of Harrington Peak adds a lot of value. I assume you've seen the beta on MP. Pretty much everything is there.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 18, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
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chamberlain, gorge of despair, the fin, castle rocks, bubbs creek wall ... these are the outings that sound super appealing
Haven't been to Chamberlain, and although the other ones are great the time spent getting there and finding your way around will eat up a few days. Each one of those can be done as three day hike-climb-hike kinda things, so you could hit two of those spots. Bubb's Creek Wall will be the easiest to find and get a lot of good climbing done.
Castle Rocks are mostly moderate, 5.9 and lower climbs, and notorious for getting people lost but I have detailed directions and GPS points I can email you.
I've day-hiked the Gorge of Despair but haven't climbed there. That's the hardest one to get to so I'd spend at least two days out there if you do that approach.
If you have strong legs I'd hike to Bubbs creek, climb one day, hike out. Hike to GOD (trailheads are near each other), climb two days, hike out. There's your seven days. It would be epic but that's only three days of climbing and you might never walk again :)
You could also do a week long trip to Valhalla for the angel wings, hamilton dome, eagle scout peak, cherubim dome, the prizm and saber ridge. Of course there are all of the options outside of SEKI, but I'm pretty worthless for any of that beta.
When it comes down to it you'll spend a lot more time climbing if you do routes in the guidebooks. All depends on your priorities.
Edit: while I was typing that it looks like people pretty much covered everything I've mentioned. Oops
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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I now know there is good rock in California outside Yosemite and the Needles.
That's a lie!
But if you are still interested.....You can do several routes on a trip to Bubbs Creek Wall. From the same base camp you can do Charlotte Dome's South Face which is a must do climb which is included into 50 classics book, for a reason. You can warm up by doing a climb on North DOme before hiking in to Bubbs Creek Wall. PM me if you want beta on route I am working on. You can do first 8 pitches now and rap back down. Those pitches are really good and worthy. You can also do first 8 of What's up Bubb and rap down with a single 70M rope. Samurai Warrior you kind of have to top out. My friend and I thought Samurai Warrior was not as good as my route or What's Up Bubb (Free version is described by Luke on MP).
Than drive a bit south and do Tehitepe Reality on Lower Tokopah Dome c2c, or do a few routes with an overnight stay. Pretty freaking sick.
GOD would involve hell of an approach.
Long, but flat and scenic approach would get you here: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/castle-dome/109269398
Hike to Castle Dome, Bubbs Creek Wall/Charlotte Dome and North Dome is from the same general area. Tokopah Valley is like a 20 mile detour after you enter the NP.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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Like Matt said, go straight to the Incredible Hulk, and climb there all 5-6 days.
Best backcountry granite in the US. 2nd best is Elephant's Perch in the Idaho Sawtooths.
There is more remote stuff, which is more about getting away from people and exploring things. But I assume you want quality.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
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Best backcountry granite in the US. 2nd best is Elephant's Perch in the Idaho Sawtooths.
Clint, remember the first two sentences of Edward Abbey's classic "Desert Solitaire?" He has just arrived at the end of the road into the Arches Nat. Monument as the first ranger there.
"This is the most beautiful place on earth. There are many such places."
Regarding the GOD, I like the seclusion but that's not what kept luring me back there like a moth to a flame.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
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Gorge of Despair is, as Kris says, well worth the effort. The rock is some of the most climbable anywhere, as is that on the Obelisk, Charlotte Dome, and several other places on the West Side. GOD and the Obelisk both give the same feeling of isolated adventure I had when I first started climbing in Yosemite in the 1960's.
John
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
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Just give up this nonsense idea, nopantsben.
Just go to the cookie, there's a rope hanging there and you can do mini=trax laps all day long every day.
Then go back to your happy camping place and drool until morning and do it all over again :-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 18, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 18, 2014 - 02:24pm PT
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Just go to the cookie, there's a rope hanging there and you can do mini=trax laps all day long every day.
+1
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