Granitica Festival 2/14-15,2015-Baboquivari Climbing History

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 8, 2014 - 11:21am PT


The North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA) and the Summit Hut are pleased to announce the third annual Granitica Festival to be held at the Oro Valley location of the Summit Hut (7745 N Oracle Road 85704) on Saturday and Sunday February 14-15, 2015. The Festival starts at 5pm and will run until 10pm on both evenings. I would also like to thank the Arizona Historical Society and the good folks at Rocks and Ropes and The Bloc for their generous assistance and support as sponsors. Additionally, the newly formed Climber's Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) will also be sponsoring and supporting the Festival this year.


The theme for 2014 is: Dreams of I'itoi- Baboquivari Adventures.

We will be taking a long look at the history of exploration on Baboquivari Peak starting with the Tohono O'odham perspective and the first ascent via the Forbes Route and moving to the present day. A tribal story teller will open the program with a discussion of Baboquivari and the origins of his people including the role of I'itoi who has traditionally lived near the peak. The emphasis for much of the remainder of the program will be on developments on the dramatically overhanging east face, home of the most challenging big wall routes in AZ.

Big Jim Griffith photo

At this time the tentative speakers list includes George Hurley, Joanna Coleman, Don Morris, Dave Ganci, Rick Tidrick, Jerry Robertson, Dave Baker, Merlin Wheeler, Mike McEwen, Martin Woerner, Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Steve Grossman, Gary Hervert, John Steiger, Fig Fiola, Eric Johnson, Damon Williams and Rick Donnelly. A full list of routes to be examined will be forthcoming as I hear back from potential speakers.

George Hurley will also be including commentary on establishing the Kor Route, a Sabino Canyon classic done with Layton early on.


Come and hear about how Lion's Ledge got its name and many more fabulous tales of adventure and mysticism.

Tom Bahti photo

Admission will be $25 and subject to availability. Purchase your tickets by phone or in person at either Summit Hut location (520-325-1554 or 520-888-1000). Limited seating is available at this event.

Don't miss this amazing historical gathering and come meet these folks and hear their stories!

See You There!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
Bump
rockgeir

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Dec 8, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
Looking forward to the event!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
I hope that everyone can come and enjoy this gathering down in sunny Tucson.

So much fantastic climbing and history to examine and appreciate!
scott baxter

Gym climber
sedona, arizona
Dec 14, 2014 - 10:23am PT
Steve,

I'll be there.

Scott
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2014 - 10:41am PT
Glad to hear it Scott as you will be talking about the doing the second ascent of the Spring Route alongside Marty Woerner and Karl Karlstrom.

This is going to be a blast!
rockgeir

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Dec 14, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
I am psyched for this event. Babo is an amazing place and I am looking forward to seeing the presentations!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
Here is Bill Forrest's classic Summit magazine account of establishing the Spring Route with George Hurley. Not knowing about Lion's Ledge, they climbed the east face all the way from the bottom to start their adventure off right! LOL




Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Dec 16, 2014 - 08:42am PT
Steve, when was that Summit article published?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 16, 2014 - 09:05am PT
November 1968 Larry.

Can't believe I missed this sweeping across the front page the first time.

Look forward to another exceptionally cool historical experience.
Thanks for making it happen Steve!


edit: fixed my bad spelling of I'Itoi
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 16, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
Will there be crag time?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
The show starts at 5 pm so you have lots of climbing time and I will be arranging camping close to the venue for visitors if you are planning on coming.

Always great to see you Seeker!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 17, 2014 - 09:49am PT
Some old babo photos bump... previous posted under the Cochise fest thread...

Doug Black on the third pitch of SE Arete? 1964


Summit shot 1964. Old Heliograph station in the background?


Photos from the Bill Sewery collection.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2014 - 11:08am PT
I just got in touch with Dave Ganci and through him will contact Rick Tidrick and Jerry Robertson who were involved in doing the first ascent of the SE Arete in 1958. Right after I hung up the phone Don Morris confirmed that he is planning on coming so that leaves only Tom Hale unaccounted for.

If anyone knows how to contact Tom Hale, please let me know.
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Dec 19, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Hale,_Jr

he is Don Laidlaw's cousin and Don still lives on 3rd street here in Tucson.

I had wine with both Don and Tom at Don's house 15 years ago. They were part of Roma Ramblers with Eber Glendenning et al.
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Dec 19, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
...and greg-
from AAJ

"Baboquivari Peak, Various Ascents. In March, I soloed a new route on the east face of Baboquivari Peak. Freak of Nature (VI 5.10 A5a) starts 40 feet left of Cradle of Stone and climbs straight up a blankish golden wall left of the black water streak in the center the face. The fifth pitch (A5a) has 22 A3/A4 placements in a row, producing a 45- to 50-foot runout. The route finishes with a 5.10 A2+ variation to the Spring Route aid comer. Pasted quarter-inch aluminum heads protect 5.10 face climbing. No bolts were drilled and all free climbing was led free onsight.

Jim Beyer"
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
Rick- Can you get contact information to me for Tom Hale so that I can get him on board for this event?
rockgeir

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
Jan 7, 2015 - 10:14am PT
Bump for a great event! When will tickets go on sale?
hikermor

Trad climber
southern california
Jan 7, 2015 - 11:17am PT
About the structure in the background of one of the earlier posts. It was definitely not a heliograph station, but was installed as a fire lookout(!) about 1940, when the stairs and trail from the west were built. It went away in the 1970s.

I don't believe that there ever was a heliograph station on Babo. It was not shown as a station for the network established during the Geronimo campaign of the early 1890s. Had that been the case, the soldiers would been the first ascentionists and not Forbes.

Rincon Peak was part of the helio network, the westernmost point. The big rock cairn on its summit dates from that use.
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Jan 7, 2015 - 01:25pm PT
I wonder how the Babo heliograph station rumor got started? Was it Steelmnkey on rec.climbing?

https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rec.climbing/mWd4NwFnei8

Just joking. I remember thinking the wreckage on top was the heliograph station when I was first up there, about 1993.

hikermor, there was a heliograph station on Mt. Wrightson (aka Mount Baldy) which is west of Rincon Peak. A minor detail.

It will be interesting to hear whether or not any of the Babo veterans have seen the Sea of Cortez from the summit. Looking forward to the event!
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