White Rastafarian Boulder

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Port

Trad climber
Norwalk, CT
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2014 - 06:58am PT
https://joshuatreebouldering.wordpress.com/2014/12/04/white-rastafarians-fall-zone-boulder/

Is this true?
Slabby D

Trad climber
B'ham WA
Dec 5, 2014 - 07:03am PT
Aggressively landscaping landings, particularly in a national park, is probably a bad idea but going to the Park Service about it after it happens is even worse.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Dec 5, 2014 - 07:41am PT
inside out and this is what to expect. Landscape, clear, make safer or the work that Dano did in the cave in Tahoe? We as climbers are and were never pure. what gets done now is just chasing the end result. Safer Sanitized indoor style climbing on outdoor rock.
RtM

climber
DHS
Dec 5, 2014 - 08:59am PT
Is this still a rock climbing site?

Moving a massive boulder in a National Park, laying beneath one of the most iconic rock climbs on the planet, is absolutely unacceptable!

White Rastafarian was FA'd approximately 40 years ago by Stonemaster John Long, it has since seen ten of thousands of ascents, possibly hundreds of thousands.

This goes well beyond just moving "A" rock. It exposes a serious emerging flaw within the new rock climbing demograph - a complete lack of knowledge or awareness of ethics and climbing etiquette. People are being introduced to climbing in climbing gyms, in drogues, without any mentors or experienced climbers to teach them ethics or appropriate behavior at the crags.

The only recourse we climbers have to protect our climbs and also our freedoms is to weed out these poseurs and to expose them and their ignorant actions for all the world to see. The oldschool method of turning the other cheek, or expecting the climbing community to handle it "inhouse" is a complete copout!

If this incident was left to just the climbing community, the boulder most likely would have been moved back, the perps and every other wannabe climber would go on believing that what they did was acceptable. Furthermore, NPS would have found out about it anyways and would view it as an irresponsible action by the climbing community, and a complete fail on our part!

By contacting the Park Service and expressing our disapproval as well as offering our aid in the matter including possible solutions, we not only prove ourselves to be responsible participants, but we also engender their trust.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:28am PT
This is just a simple case of those lazy boulderers reaching the point of being so lazy that they didn't want to carry crash pads out to the climb:-)
Baggins

Boulder climber
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:28am PT
But where to you draw the line? People trundle smaller rocks constantly. The natural line to draw is "can you move it by hand?"
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:41am PT
Climbers have been moving boulders and cutting trees as long as I've been climbing...but I've only been climbing for 25 years, so I guess I'm part of the new generation of climbers. I'm not condoning anything btw. Personally, I think they should ban bouldering pads from National Parks. I have seen the bases of boulders transformed from lush wildflower and cacti gardens into barren landscape from pads crushing plants.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:46am PT
Finally. Now I might give 'er a go.


Edit: Now white guys with dreadlocks? That I find offensive.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:48am PT
"Route developers" many times don't feel like they have "developed" anything if they don't do some cleaning. Now don't get me wrong, this has led to a lot of really great routes that would never have gotten climbed otherwise, but a lot of time people take that philosophy to other places where it is not welcome.
DWB

climber
Madison
Dec 5, 2014 - 10:14am PT
If John Long says no big deal...

http://mountainproject.com/v/white-rastafarians-fall-zone-boulder-moved/109788565#a_109789034
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 5, 2014 - 10:19am PT
Yeah. I like laughing at people different than me too.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
Dec 5, 2014 - 10:23am PT
^ Me too, when I see one of those crashpad climber expeditions on a popular hiking trail, I feel seriously out of touch.
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Dec 5, 2014 - 10:24am PT
Now white guys with dreadlocks? That I find offensive.

Larry I assume you are just being facetious...but I must say anyone with Dreads are ok to me as long as they "dread". False Rasta no good.

Moving boulders is tough topic. I will admit to moving small cheat stones at the base of problems but never in a national park. This boulder seems a little big to be moving around and more importantly it was an iconic part of the climb.

[shrug] I never tried it due to the potential danger. -that and I can't climb that hard anyways.
RtM

climber
DHS
Dec 5, 2014 - 10:30am PT
ok maybe I was slightly livid in my first post *mental note - never post before morning coffee*

But it is a really big boulder, like 3 or 4 feet diameter, and it was imbedded in the ground pretty deep. It had to take considerable effort, probably digging with a shovel.

All this in an area that is monitored for impact by the Park Service!
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Dec 5, 2014 - 11:08am PT
Getting bent about this is a mistake.

Once upon a time White Rastafarian Boulder was naturally face down on that little 'moved boulder'.
One night it mysteriously rolled upright and created the classic Rasta.

JT climbers never could have accomplished such an engineering task though.
Theoretically Yosemite climbers may have the knowledge base to do it.
That plus several bottles of wine and a rather long telephone pole borrowed from a construction site.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 5, 2014 - 11:11am PT
In other news, someone took a piss on a nearby Yucca.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Dec 5, 2014 - 11:49am PT
hmmm, interesting thought provoking thread.

Personally, I wouldn't get the government involved, or post anything on the Internet about the boulder being moved.

Remember when the government moved Intersection Rock on the other side of the road? That was a serious buzz kill for me. I always enjoyed the times I had belaying my second, and gazing out in to the wilderness. Now I look at a road, and Knuckleheads stopping to take pictures of me.

It wouldn't surprise me if they fenced this boulder off, or moved it too.

Nope, I would have left The Man out of it, but that's just my opinion.

I have always wanted to climb this boulder, and at one time had the ability, but just lacked the courage.

Now that the boulder beneath it has been moved, it doesn't make it anymore appealing to me.

I have spent the last 3 years in and out of the hospitals more times then I can count, and can not get hurt anymore. I only need 4.5 years to retire from my company, and would like that to happen relatively injury free.

If I ever decide to try this problem, I will do this with a top rope.
Bad style? So what. I'm not damaging the stone, and am not endangering anyone's safety.

Next,,,,


MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 5, 2014 - 11:52am PT
SlabbyD nailed it with the first response.

Aggressively landscaping landings, particularly in a national park, is probably a bad idea but going to the Park Service about it after it happens is even worse.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Dec 5, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
Great problem, never to be the same, if pads are not enough. Who ever did this please quit climbing or kill yourselves!
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Dec 5, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
By contacting the Park Service and expressing our disapproval as well as offering our aid in the matter including possible solutions, we not only prove ourselves to be responsible participants, but we also engender their trust.

I love the smell of naïvety on a Friday...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 5, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
I ain't even a pebble pincher and I think there's something wrong with moving the boulder. Part of the challenge of the problem is gone now, like it or not. Flat landing in the sand vs. having to carefully monitor your position and keep your sh*t together as you get higher.

To paraphrase from the idiotic retrobolter's quotebook:

"If you don't like the boulder, don't land on it!!"
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 5, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
I wonder how many times JGill doctored a landing? Getting up considering the consequences is normal course and speed outside the gym.

It is a national park now people. The old rules don't apply. Kicking a few rocks out of the way is one thing, moving a big ass boulder is another.

If we don't adopt a low impact approach in National Parks, we are blowing off our own foot.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 5, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
If you do boulder, OTOH, instead of wearing out the base areas of 5.8 routes while waiting your turn, then you no doubt know a few people with life altering ankle injuries. It's an unfortunately common part of outdoor bouldering.

I'm all for cleaned up landings, to a reasonable extent(**). If you have to look 2-3x at old pix on MP.com and still squint to see what happened, I'd say whoever did this did a pretty good job for pretty good reasons and knew exactly what they were doing. I have to say thanks, myself.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 5, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
I heard somebody took a crap where the rock used to be and it's now v5 because of it.

Way harder than it was in the 80's.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 5, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
Looking at the photos, it's not clear to me that anything was moved.
Everything changes with the angle at which the photo was taken.
To make an accurate comparison, you will need to exactly reproduce the
angle of one of the original photos and make a side by side comparison.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Dec 5, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
A friend was out there within a few days of it happening and I kept quite, but the cat is out of the bag
From a text message on 10/28:
Went out to climb on White Rasta someone or probably more than one person has maliciously "Pried" the boulder back out of original location ....this has happened since last week...since I've already climbed on it then... Looks like recently this happened....they didn't even try and landscape just a pry and leave...looks like sh#t...I've fell before...u don't hit it anyway?...some major "Noob" punk crankers have commited Blasphemy?... Pretty messed up... Post this up ..Johnny...what a travesty of honor?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 5, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
Thanks. To me, this account from your friend who is familiar with the old location is more convincing than the photos.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 5, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
If boulder stays moved, loss of fear factor denotes at least a three number downgrade.....
Psilocyborg

climber
Dec 5, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
Moving a boulder....what a pussy.

The most interesting thing in this thread though is pooping on a turtle. Geneous!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Dec 5, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
I don't get why some one would even consider this, let alone do it. This is still on my mind from earlier today. I remember finally sending this 1983 and I was stoked
No pads And my friends all siting on that rock watching, not spotingg me, falling from the top you will not hit the rock! I'm just disgusted with the thought of this. I would like to hope it's a BAD TROLL? Next some one will make the Function a sport route? Whoe ever did this YOUR GONA DIE!


Friend

climber
Dec 5, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
F#cking BOGUS. That climb was an inspiration and life-changing milestone for a lot of folks. Now it is less so.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
F*#king with that particular landing is poor form, in so many ways. The obvious question is this: why, now, after 40 years and gazillions of ascents, is it suddenly so imperative that we move that boulder? The height, the exciting landing, the big moves, the history, all combine to create that awesome Rasta mystique. EVERYBODY who has done the White Rasta remembers that particular road hazard as a tangible part of the experience. The question is not was it OK to move the boulder; the question is why move it at all, and what f*#ked-up little asshat would presume to do so?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
Hey there's that super strong bald guy who solos all my projects...
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Dec 5, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
I have never sent this problem. I've always said this would be the culmination of my climbing career. I've tempted myself several times over twenty five years (Yeah,I'm a puss). I would not feel the same if I actually did it with the boulder moved. I vote lame.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Dec 6, 2014 - 12:15am PT
White Rasta v3 R
Never seen a protection rating (G,PG,R,X) assigned to a boulder, but what the hell do I know.[Click to View YouTube Video]
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Dec 6, 2014 - 01:19am PT
Are the parks folks going to put the guardrail back under the Thimble?
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Dec 6, 2014 - 01:44am PT
That rock at the base was always referred to as the Melon Smasher when I was spending a lot of time out there. I also never topped that out (pre-pad days), but it sure is an iconic problem.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Dec 6, 2014 - 08:24am PT
Had the boulder been in its original location, anyone could experience what Long and Bachar experienced.


JL's account was about doing the FA and the Magic of being there in the unknown, up high.


Just sayin'
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 6, 2014 - 09:27am PT
If this thing were harder than beginner grades from the 70's, in the middle of a beginner area from the 70's, nobody would say a thing about it.

This and the bolts on Double Cross - in the land of Barney Rubble - among a bunch of never-has-beens and their lost nubile disciples - bitching that a f*#king V3 just isn't as dangerous as it was back in the day.

Good f*#king god, people, have little pride here and STFU.


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 6, 2014 - 09:35am PT
Hahaha!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 6, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
It's an unfortunately common part of outdoor bouldering.

Um..."outdoor bouldering?" As opposed to...what? Is there any other kind? Really, pal. You could have stopped right there. You already showed us more than enough of your ass.
Brian

climber
California
Dec 6, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
No class; but, these days, no surprise either.

I ticked it already, but even so this bums me out. What a shitshow climbing has become. Maybe someone will chime in and says it's always been the case, but things seem so much worse to me over the past 20 years (of the 30+ I've been climbing). Maybe I've flown beneath the radar and, because I was never one of the cool kids in the sororities in the Valley or Josh or Boulder or anywhere else, I've never been directly confronted with too many examples of this kind of stupidity. But in my day (that's both BITD and today, right now), being an environmentalist, taking minimum impact seriously, and thinking style matters are where it's at. I'm glad I don't climb with the punters who did this (and the foot ladder up on Queen Mountain, and piles of human excrement in the Buttermilks, and the abandoned gear at the Hulk, and on and on and on) and bummed that I am still impacted by their stupidity and selfishness.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Dec 6, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
. EVERYBODY who has done the White Rasta remembers that particular road hazard as a tangible part of the experience.

Have to correct the ST record:
Maybe I'm just semi-senile and/or stupid, but I don't have any strong recollection of that boulder other than satisfying myself that it didn't pose any significant danger (which may beg the question, why move it, if my memory is correct).
In any event, I agree with the accolades given to WR; it was a memorable experience for me (except for my lack of strong memory of the "road hazard" boulder) and I'm sure for lots of us "beginners." To borrow a line from John Sherman about a V2 or 3 in his HT guide, "bouldering doesn't get any better than this, just harder."
If you haven't done the problem yet and think you're somehow being cheated by the boulder moving, I'd try to repress that thought--I just don't think it is or was that big of a deal, which is probably why the boulder wasn't moved for 40 years.
Nate Ricklin

climber
San Diego
Dec 6, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
Yeah, I don't think you'd actually hit the boulder.

That said, it was pretty glorious to top out with it in the back of my mind.
thebravecowboy

climber
walking, resin-stained, towards the goal
Dec 6, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
If folks are so frazzled, why not just go pound some rebar about four feet deep and two feet high in its place? Or, you know, just put the rock back.

Edit: sh!t I am more worried about that poor uphill cholla so oft-kicked that it can't bite anymore. The sandaled smooch my toes gave it came out the better for cultural alteration though, I must admit
thebravecowboy

climber
walking, resin-stained, towards the goal
Dec 6, 2014 - 07:47pm PT
And yes, that wee backbreaker has kept me from trying to sip of that holy cup, above, say 10 feet.
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Dec 6, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
I've been thinking about this all day, and I keep coming to the same conclusion:

I sure hope this is a troll!

Man, anybody moved that boulder is just so utterly clueless as to the history of rock climbing, what that climb has meant to the mere mortals like me who looked at it multiple times in awe, to those blessed with the skills and mind control to have actually sent the thing. Let's just spit in all our faces why doncha. And of course the government implications don't help one little bit.

Plus my dear friend "Friend" was one of those who got BURNED!

Crap...you toads who may have done this...you want that climb to be safe, do what I do...use a frigging toprope!
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 7, 2014 - 09:32am PT
This particular boulder being moved is only a symptom of a much larger problem--and confirms that Access Fund's timing in hiring an Education Director was none too soon.

http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5071835&ct=14144167

Curt
thebravecowboy

climber
walking, resin-stained, towards the goal
Dec 7, 2014 - 09:37am PT
I am going to side with certain NV residents here and just blame it all on Kali.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Dec 7, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
Are the parks folks going to put the guardrail back under the Thimble?


It would not have disturbed me if they had removed it 54 years ago.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Dec 7, 2014 - 03:00pm PT
^^^^^^
For the win!
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Dec 7, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
While it's certainly a shame that some folks decided to re-arrange the landscape in a National Park , it doesn't seem that like that big a deal in the grand scheme of things going on in the parks over the years. While I remember doing WR back in the winter of 1984 with various dirtbags the Boulder being there was not even considered a feature of the climb. It was more like a place to put your beer down on and get pysched, no pads, and the spotters were worthless as they were all just laying on the ground watching the show.
For those folks who have not done the WR yet and feel cheated by the fact the Boulder is not where it use to be.... Better be careful what ya wish for! Now Puke Steve Sangdahl
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Dec 7, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
So High [Click to View YouTube Video]
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Dec 8, 2014 - 07:23am PT
Back in the days before pads, my buddy Scott pushed his little boat farther from shore than he ever had before on that particular problem, and broke his back on that boulder. He’d be PISSED to learn it’s been moved.

Yup, some dude broke his back on this problem so everyone else should too. I'm not one for altering routes, but rolling a boulder out of the way seems like a good idea.

While your rolling the rock back into place, please roll intersection rock back onto the right side of the road.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Dec 8, 2014 - 11:35am PT
What a strange world bouldering has become. To preserve the natural environment of the landing zone one should leave deadly boulders in place, but it's perfectly acceptable to stack pads a foot deep. A consistent position would be to leave the boulder where it is and not use pads. Too old school for modern taste I suspect.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Dec 8, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
What a strange world bouldering has become. To preserve the natural environment of the landing zone one should leave deadly boulders in place . . .

There are two discussions going on: (1) what if the WR boulder was in fact a "deadly boulder," and (2) what about the actual WR boulder, which is not deadly or even dangerous to the vast majority of the many hundreds or thousands of people who have done that problem.
I understand from reading this post and the one on MP that there are a few people who have been injured by crashing into the boulder, but those injuries could have been prevented by the use of a competent spotter, perhaps with a normal boulder pad or 2, not stacked a foot deep. If you're going to go flying off a relatively high boulder problem and careen into whatever hard surface is in the general vicinity, you are going to to get injured sooner or later.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
Such a well used area. I'm surprised nobody saw this happen and piped up.

Would have taken at least 3 ppl to move this thing.

#Conspiracy




Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 8, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Sometimes rocks move on their own in Death Valley. That's not so far away.
Or, it could have been aliens. Taking a break from Nazca and the Pyramids, not to mention the Integratron.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Dec 8, 2014 - 01:30pm PT

JSAR was tired of dealing with injuries so 3 rogue NPS rangers moved it.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 8, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
Or did someone just roll over a rock?

It's really a "My life has no meaning beyond a rock I climbed 20-40 years ago. Since then, I've lived a repeating cycle of addiction, narcissism and celibacy. Since I lack the talent and motivation to achieve anything more, I choose instead to engage in dangerous and self destructive activities while putting down those who have chosen to do things differently."

Otherwise - yeah - it really is just a rock - and these reactions here are hilarious.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Dec 8, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
Just add bolts, then it will be ultra safe.
Lloyd Campbell

Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
Dec 8, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
Just add bolts, then it will be ultra safe.


That's a fantastic idea! I'm on it!
Safety is our #1 concern in climbing!!!

So High and Slashface are next!!
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Dec 8, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Climbers have varying ideas about calibration of risk. In the case of high-ball bouldering the "sweet spot" for most is somewhere between the extremes of top-roping (usually entirely safe) and "don't alter a thing, use no pads." To some extent it's a matter of personal choice . . . but the social environment can be very persuasive.
BAMF

Trad climber
S,D, / Ca.
Dec 8, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
YO YO YO as opposed to ho ho ho....anyway I was probably one of the first responders to the Blasphemy of moving or basically excavating and prying the boulder..around 10-26. I could still see pry marks...the orientation of the boulder was long side east to west...now its north to south...2 little anchor points of original rock are exposed at the grounds surface, these spots should make positioning the boulder like fitting a glove...if the hand fits don't acquit....sorry...Ive been a builder most of my life and the could have did a better job "covering their tracks" , however the did a quick and dirty job & just got the boulder out of the way as quickly and hastily as possible.
I contemplated saying something...I asked johansolo to say something only to refrain. I decided saying something would only hurt the climbing community, I was trying to get more feedback from other climbers before charging forward hastily " Like a Bull in the China closet"....but someone has alerted the Park Service...this was not a very good idea....or I would have done this...I was actually rallying a stealth group of people ready, willing and capable of performing a redemption mission...I'm currently a stones throw from JTNP....Any swift, silent & deadly takers to a late night restoration mission. Afterall, "NO Harm...NO FOUL"
I PITY THE PO FOO WHO BE STUPID ENOUGH TO LOWER A CLIMB TO THEIR LEVEL INSTEAD OF BRINGING THEIR A-GAME! LETS RETRO BOLT BACHER YERIAN SO WE CAN ALL DO IT!...NONSENSE! IF U F#CKED WITH THIS BOULDER>>>I WANT YOUR NARDS IN A JAR ON MY MANTLE....AFTER BURNING A CROSS IN YOUR YARD & A LITTLE TAR & FEATHER FOREPLAY.....SUCKKKKKAAAAA!
BAMF

Trad climber
S,D, / Ca.
Dec 8, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
YO YO YO as opposed to ho ho ho....anyway I was probably one of the first responders to the Blasphemy of moving or basically excavating and prying the boulder..around 10-26. I could still see pry marks...the orientation of the boulder was long side east to west...now its north to south...2 little anchor points of original rock are exposed at the grounds surface, these spots should make positioning the boulder like fitting a glove...if the hand fits don't acquit....sorry...Ive been a builder most of my life and the could have did a better job "covering their tracks" , however the did a quick and dirty job & just got the boulder out of the way as quickly and hastily as possible.
I contemplated saying something...I asked johansolo to say something only to refrain. I decided saying something would only hurt the climbing community, I was trying to get more feedback from other climbers before charging forward hastily " Like a Bull in the China closet"....but someone has alerted the Park Service...this was not a very good idea....or I would have done this...I was actually rallying a stealth group of people ready, willing and capable of performing a redemption mission...I'm currently a stones throw from JTNP....Any swift, silent & deadly takers to a late night restoration mission. Afterall, "NO Harm...NO FOUL"
I PITY THE PO FOO WHO BE STUPID ENOUGH TO LOWER A CLIMB TO THEIR LEVEL INSTEAD OF BRINGING THEIR A-GAME! LETS RETRO BOLT BACHER YERIAN SO WE CAN ALL DO IT!...NONSENSE! IF U F#CKED WITH THIS BOULDER>>>I WANT YOUR NARDS IN A JAR ON MY MANTLE....AFTER BURNING A CROSS IN YOUR YARD & A LITTLE TAR & FEATHER FOREPLAY.....SUCKKKKKAAAAA!
Edge

Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
Dec 8, 2014 - 08:38pm PT

I've never been to J Tree, but my daughter was flown out for a photo shoot when she was 15.

She never got the reach on White Rastafarian, but told me later that she enjoyed the hell out of hucking off it, multiple times. Pity when 15 year old girls are tougher than the asshats that pussified the landing.
Port

Trad climber
Norwalk, CT
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
pussified the landing

Seems to me, "pussies" have no trouble sending with the full danger of a boulder...
Sam E

Boulder climber
Malibu
Dec 10, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
http://vimeo.com/15971259
snyd

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
Dec 11, 2014 - 04:48am PT
Sam has a tramp stamp.
BAMF

Trad climber
S,D, / Ca.
Dec 14, 2014 - 09:14am PT
On 12-13-2014 I arrived to White Rasta Boulder to the Park Service moving the Boulder into its original location? The location seemed skewed but after a consensus was reached between the park service & the climbers who happened to be present, a final location was agreed upon.The boulder was then put into that location.
Even though the boulder appears to be restored to its original location, the persons who moved the boulder have forever altered its true
original location.
Everyone present at the boulder location restoration was professional, empathetic & committed to the recovery & impact on the natural environment. Even though the attempt to mitigate the environmental impact was exemplary, the boulder will never be in it's original state.
Everyone involved attempted to assist in it's accurate relocation.
The Park service was very cooperative & willing to make someone's wrong a right. They have currently initiated no restrictions to climbing the White Rasta & it appears things are back to an equilibrium.
Let's hope that we can all, as climbers become stewards to protect and exist with the environment with minimal impact. That we can educate & cooperate with each other, always for the betterment & long term preservation of the environment. So we all can enjoy climbing this
classic problem for Generations to Come!
I would like to personally thank Rob Mulligan for his professional
& diplomatic handling of the issue. His being forthcoming with the Park Service seems to be the proper solution. The Park Service New Generation of Rangers now is considerate, open & general concerned with not only impact to the environment but maintaining CLIMBER ACCESS. Now Rangers are Climbers & Climbers are Rangers. This common bond amongst climbers has extended our fraternity & relationship with one another worldwide. Climbers understand climbing more than anyone! Thank You!, Rob & Thank You!, Bernadette, with the Park Service..
After it's restoration, BA Baracus took a lap on the Rasta... after some young stud volunteer sent it in his "Tennies"... so I only got the 2nd on the newly restored problem.
I "pity the poo foo who even thinks of messing with our natural environment & jacking it up for the rest of us Stewards...SUUUCCCKKKAA!"
PS. "the truth always floats to the surface", WE WILL FIND YOU!
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Dec 14, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
. . . the asshats that pussified the landing

You mean by putting pads underneath the climber?


;>)
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Dec 16, 2014 - 07:27am PT
Scrubbing Bubbles, advanced interagation methods. I agree!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Dec 16, 2014 - 09:05am PT
Per removing boulders at the base of things. The reasons John and I never fiddled with the stone beneath White Rasta was that while we tinkered with the moves before going for it, it always felt pretty doable so we never feared falling out of control, or at all.

Fast forward a year or so and move up to Idyllwild and a bouldering area called the Relativity Boulders (now closed) and a great problem called Speed of Light. This was a serious looking big ass dyno to a poor jug and a mantle top out - and it looked hard. There was a pointed rock at the base and we immediately dug it out and rolled it off because nobody in their right mind was going to commit to hucking a huge, two handed mo with that boulder underneath. It didn't look like a problem anyone would ever get first try so it made sense to pluck the stone below. Turns out I could do the problem after just a few test flights to vet the mo and the landing but it was V8 by later consensus and I never would have tried it with that back breaker stone below it.

So I'm think that moving obstacles is an issue only when we approach our limits. Of course when an objective danger has been part of the challenge of a problem, and it is removed, the experience is no longer the same, in the classic sense. But this is a tricky one no matter.

JL
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Dec 16, 2014 - 10:10am PT
Pretty weak. You don't get these kind of awards for prying out boulders under a highball V3 that's been done by a lot of people.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Dec 16, 2014 - 10:57am PT
Not reading all this bs, because it is beyond stupid.

I've hucked many laps on that thing. Pad, no pad. Fallen off the top once too. This is all beyond stupid because YOU WILL NOT HIT THE ROCK if you fall off!

I've taken the fall, I've seen at least 50 people take the fall. Not a single damn one of them hit the rock. Stories of broken legs/ankles, afaik, involved hitting the ground, usually padless, not hitting that little rock. 99% of the time, a fall from the business lands you immediately in front of it. Yeah, a tad close, and yeah you thought about it when up there, but no real hazard.

Stupid.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 16, 2014 - 11:02am PT
Now you've gone and done it Will.
What's the deal with that kind of man-on-the-scene sensible matter-of-fact information. That's not how this place works!

Thank God that menace to someones mind has been moved out of the way.
Hand me another PBR!!!
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Dec 16, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
5 people in less than 30 minutes did what hundreds and thousands bitched and complained and argued about on the Internet for weeks (much like politics).

Thanks for being different. We couldn't have done it without you...seriously.

dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 16, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
"I've seen at least 50 people take the fall"


That sounds like a HIGH count.
Kironn Kid

Trad climber
Dec 22, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
That is totally unforgivable. A crime. It's because of that boulder, that I was coughing up hair-balls before committing to the final dyno. The boulder should be relocated to its original setting. What next, chop down potentially dangerous cactus and Yucca's because we don't want to deal with the added adventure? This is inexcusable!

Russ
bootysatva

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
Dec 26, 2014 - 07:15am PT
A wheel chair accessible path and elevator would be nice. We need to provide access for all humans to all natural areas even if it renders them un natural.

Those poor monkeys must have run out of v-3 pebbles to safely climb.

Next time just wear a diaper when bouldering so when you poo yer pants on the way down it'll act as a bouldering pad when you land in yer doodawg.
Climbnrok

Trad climber
LA
Dec 4, 2017 - 10:35pm PT
....in the news again.....
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