What, Exactly, Is A "Valley Local," And Who Gets To Decide?

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Lorenzo

Trad climber

Oregon

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:30pm PT

Nov 25, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
Get a job, buy a house in El Portal, sire a kid...then you are a Valley Local! Hanging out a few seasons, climbing a bit, embarrassing yourself drunk at the Deli...not so much.

Peter

No. That makes the kid you sired a valley local.
The second part you can do anywhere.

John M

climber

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:32pm PT

Po box won't get you a library card.

jees.. The Larry.. don't give away all the secrets..

Though I am the President of the board of the Friends of the Wawona Library..

And I CAN get you a library card.

on the back it has the secret handshake.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:32pm PT

Who the hell would want to be a local? The Valley is the absolute epitome of the place that's "a great place to visit but you wouldn't want to live there."

John M

climber

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:35pm PT

I see the great Donini has lost his love, or perhaps never found it. sad face..

and yes.. the place has been overrun with unmitigated bullsh#t. Much like the taco.

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:36pm PT

Rats in a box....?

WBraun

climber

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:37pm PT

Donini -- " ... you wouldn't want to live there."

Yep people come to the Valley just to die .....

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2014 - 06:38pm PT

Get a job, buy a house in El Portal, sire a kid

Job: check.
House in El Portal: check
Sired a kid: check

Holy motherf*#king sh#t I'm IN! I simply did not know what teh standards were! Where's my codpiece? Hair shirt? Drum? Watch TV and smoke cigars in Camp 4 wearing just my underwear!

Splater

climber

Grey Matter

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:39pm PT

time for a new sequel?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:45pm PT

with regard to climbing, it usually refers to someone actively climbing in the Valley, perhaps the majority of that time. A Valley Local probably has a good idea of who the other locals are, by frequent encounters on the rock.

Given that worthy projects are limited, a Valley Local is probably up on the possibilities, and most likely has an eye for the current aesthetic, and some understanding of what that aesthetic entails.

There probably is not a "group" who have self-elected themselves as "Valley Locals," but they are identified by Others as the force of conformity, opposing those who would come in and do stuff that is contrary to the local "rules."

This was probably a bigger problem when the rate of route first ascents were high and the style of climbing in the Valley not established. Today, people that alter routes (putting in convenience bolts, for instance) may or may not find their work erased depending on their status as a knowledgable local or a clueless outsider (whether or not the alteration is a good idea).

I think that it is legitimate to claim that Yosemite is a special place. I certainly haven't been anywhere quite like it for rock climbing. There are tremendous places to go, like the Eastern Fjords of Baffin Island, but you'd count yourself lucky just to get to see the place, let alone climb there.

Being a special place includes the ease of access and the huge number of climbers that climb there. Climbers who bring a large number of styles and thoughts of ethics with them, and a set of experiences and expectations which might not quite fit in the Valley, at least the way Valley climbing has evolved.

There are those who have a tremendous understanding and respect for that way of climbing and think it is a distinguishing feature of Yosemite Valley. There are those who do not recognize that way as being anything special.

You can guess which group the "Valley Locals" might belong to of those two.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:45pm PT

The Valley is the perfect mother. She takes you in, nourishes you, teaches you, and then, when you are ready, she gently nudges you onto other pastures.

zBrown

Ice climber

Brujò de la Playa

Nov 25, 2014 - 06:59pm PT

I found a codpiece with your name on it in the restroom at Wawona. Oops, nevermind it was bvd.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Nov 25, 2014 - 07:38pm PT

I'm just a valley regular.. but in my heart it's one place I consider my true home. Even with all the crap that springs up along the roads, and the BS you have to deal with ..once you step away from the road its ... Home

Risk

Mountain climber

Olympia, WA

Nov 25, 2014 - 09:04pm PT

Unless you’re a valley local, you’re just another valley touron.

Studly

Trad climber

Nov 25, 2014 - 09:27pm PT

We all get to decide.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Nov 25, 2014 - 09:58pm PT

The mundane sense: living in the NP, or just outside it, or work in it.

The historical sense: spent substantial time there. More than just two weekends. Perhaps something longish was climbed.

The meaningful sense: what Ed and Donini said.

Next question.

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Nov 25, 2014 - 10:05pm PT

I'll let someone else decide who's getting to decide.
If stretching the meaning of the word "valley" to include people who live in El Portal, these pix might be of interest.

Since I took these last year, I've since come to the conclusion that one cannot be sure that these initials were carved by tourists, male or female, youngster or older person, or by kids out screwing around on a summer day, which was my naive first impression.

I know the OP really intended to make this about climbers who consider themselves or are considered by others to be "locals." I'm no yokel. I don't consider myself to have been a real local, except in my days living and working there. I remember being called a "local climber" by an out-of-state climber who had just been introduced to me as being from Merced and having a sound knowledge of "the game." This was on my one and ONLY climbing vacation in years, sometime in the eighties.

The SNAB (the B is for BS) in me says to relay the feeling of pride and surprise following that impressionable lass's mistake.

I'm pretty much with Maysho on the definition which comes closest.

The jobs are pretty scarce but it signifies and helps narrow the group.

The real estate comes with the territory, too. It means a great deal sealed by payment of TAXES! Which in turn support dirtbag suppression, but let's stay on track.

But not for long.

Sorry for being so long-winded.

The last part is sexist, or not well-thought out...so what if you have kids or not? Good old "Responsible You" pays taxes either way. F it. You DON'T EVER have to have kids to prove anything.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Nov 25, 2014 - 10:09pm PT

I got a bunch of friends in SF who are valley locals

BuddhaStalin

climber

Truckee, CA

Nov 26, 2014 - 12:18am PT

Hell, I lived there, both in a gainful and ungainful manner, volunteered lots of my man-hours of labor within the park, and I still don't consider myself a 'valley local' nor do I find the terminology to be remotely significant in any way. Mostly its to 'impress' other people, if thats important to you. I can barely stand to go there anymore. there are lots of wonderful places to climb in this world that aren't 'the valley'