Unknown crag in Idyllwild

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
LfeSvr77

Sport climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 25, 2014 - 04:23am PT
Does any one know any info about the slab with a few bolted routes on it with some surrounding decent boulders above the water distric tank. Its walking distance from town off the highway and jameson. Parking is officially off of rockdale-spur next to the tank. I've heard it referred to as cross rock but that's about all I know. Some decent routes on it as well!
JMC

climber
the land of milk and honey
Nov 25, 2014 - 05:54am PT
Mssr. Gordon will probably chime in soon.

From his site, here's a link to some Idyllwild esoterica - http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/Otherareas/newidyllwild.htm
LfeSvr77

Sport climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2014 - 11:57am PT
Jmc and Dave,
No its non of those. I'm relatively familiar with the locations of what is considered the others in Idyllwild that were put up a few years back and its definitely not any of the gv stuff. I'm very familiar with that area. On the PDF they only show 2 areas but in reality, there's a stupid amount of climbing there with you either have to be willing to really explore a large area or go with some locals. I of which have done both and would love to put a guide out for the area but even though we do have access, we have systems of where we park to avoid any problems with the gv property association of which I've personally talked to to avoid any possible probs.
Dave if you ever wanna go to gv let me know.
-x15 if ranchero knows any info I'd love to know any. Definitely a diversion but I live in Idyllwild so its nice to play on something nice and close like that without much of an approach before work.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Nov 25, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
How's the sport climbing up there in Idyllwild?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Nov 25, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
I was up at Suicide clipping bolts on Saturday.
All routes were on the smooth sole wall and all spectacular.
Battle of the Bulge
The Fiend
Mickey Mantle
Ultimatum
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 25, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
Been there.
That sounds like a little crag the Chongo Bros. (not Chuck, Dave and ...) put some short bolted routes on bitd.
LfeSvr77

Sport climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
X15 ya definitely no gv guide ever!

Johann- I wouldn't really call much on tahquitz or suicide "sport". Even though its bolted it'd still considered trad
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 25, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
I know the one you are referring to....just above Rockdale, near Jameson. Been there a few times...short bolted routes...found an old hex & tattered cord there once. Not a destination site, but close enough for a quick jaunt from town.

Betcha Bob Gaines would know the history.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 25, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
All of those "bolts only" climbs are SPORT. Go look it up on MP, WORD.


Ever climbed "Tales from the Crypt".... its located at the 180 turn when driving from Mt. Center to town. One bolt marks the way, 5.7. FA Fred East and John Egger.... 1977 or so.

APOGEE:
I would like my old Hex and what was once a new cord, returned please.

apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 25, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
The one I found was only 40 years old, guyman....waaaaaay too new for your rack. Heh!
Tan Slacks

climber
Joshua Tree
Nov 25, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
Pretty sure it was Rich and Dave (Chongo) and a few of the local kids that were learning to bolt then. Some of the old timer guys might remember Ryan Rigetti? He and Matt Bebe would come in to Nomads and buy bolts around 89/90. They didn't drive then so most of their routes (?) were close to town. Rich and Dave were doing their resoling at the pull out for Suicide then and they would send their most favored clients to these short approach routes to sample their "Mexican" rubber. Makes me smile to remember them bragging about their rubber. Fun times.

During that period there were a bunch of us finding routes all over town, ISOMATA, Pine Cove. Some really horrible routes. There was even a large over hanging boulder that had glue ons! .... that got bolted. Another name bolting around town from that period was Paul Wilson.

I'm sure people will be finding stray bolted routes for decades

edit

Some of the best quality other area routes during that time period were being done by the Erlers and friends. Garner Valley, Black mountain (not the Bourne area. That was his!). Quality stuff. I'm sure there were many others. This is just from memory.
JMC

climber
the land of milk and honey
Nov 25, 2014 - 07:54pm PT
Looks like a clean east face.
LfeSvr77

Sport climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
Definitely not a destination but not a bad little crag to literally walk to from town.
Guyman- I'd beg to differ. If you look it up on mp, theres less than ten routes that they have marked as a sport climb. The main difference between sport and "bolted" trad routes are the bolt spacing (5-15 ft =sport & generally 30-60ft if not even more = trad) & the way they were bolted. Anchors bolted first and than top down vs trad bolted routes are bolted on lead. Others argue also its for the sport of climbing only and so many more reasons.
I'm not really sure what turn your talking about but a little more info and I'll go check it out!
LfeSvr77

Sport climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
Tan- that ks for the info and story. I'm good friends with the whole Righetti family so I'll hit Ryan for sure! Do you mean down I'm the grotto by isomata? Some guys have bolted anchors for a high line there recently. Way super sick! Where is the stuff with the glue in holds? I've never seen any on the mtn.
Jmc- yea that's it. The nothern east is pretty low angle. Not bad to solo (if you can even call it that) some laps around on it. The bolts are kind of on the southern east side
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 26, 2014 - 03:07pm PT
svr77....pulling your chain, I take it you don't do MP? Many people on that site swear that a SPORT climb is one protected by bolts only......

and I gave you bum beta for "Tales"... its when your driving from Pine Cove to town.....big tight left turn on the 243, 2nd gear turn for sure..... they blew away the bottom of the slab to make the road. (chipping for progress) the climb goes up that.

App.... we had hemp ropes back then, smoked better than todays nylon junk...
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 26, 2014 - 03:10pm PT
Did you see the highline bolts that were installed at the top of Suicide a few years back? There was a guy in town for a while who was a highline nut who apparently plugged 'em in. I wouldn't mind it so much if not for the fact that they cut down at least one tree that was 'inconveniently' in the midst of the span. I gave serious thought to chopping the damn things.
LfeSvr77

Sport climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
Guyman- hahaha wasn't sure. No I love mp, really useful to have the app. Can give ya some crappy info from people like that though. Lol bum beta is the best. Keeps it sketchy. As for that slab, I know exactly where your talking about. I live right next to it. I've always debated setting up a tr to try a line or to I've seen on it but I don't know how I feel about climbing right next to/ over the hw with every car slowing down to watch. That's dead mans curve. There's a nice crack in the next big bolder system about 50 yards past it that I cleaned up a few months ago. I have never seen a bolt on the slab though.

Apogee- the people that set the high line in the grotto have a line up in suicide but I'm not sure if there the ones that actually set the one that your talking about. I think the line they set was this year though.
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