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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 21, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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what do you use as a free shoe when having to bust out of the ladders now and again on aid/free routes? Maybe some mid 11 fingers you need to aid for 50 feet, then switch back to low 10 free climbing for awhile in a single pitch. Trying to get my footwear dialed...
Please don't suggest just switching shoes.
Do you just size em up?
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Nov 21, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
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case closed.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Nov 21, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
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Comfy free shoes. Any approach shoes on 10's would be sketchtastic. Just climb fas enough that you still feel your toes by the end of the pitch.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Nov 21, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
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JADIAN
Trad climber
Manton
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Buy tc pro 1 full size larger, put hard plastic insert (the kind for arch support. Works like a charm.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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What is the ratio of stirrups to free overall for your intended routes (not just the pitch)?
For a Waller that is going to do short sections of free, then something like the Evolv Maximus, or La Sportiva Mega Dru, or Boreal Big Wall Boot is like gold.
If you're more doing free overall, with some aid, and the hard part of the free is a short section like you describe on the one pitch, then a stiff free climbing shoe is the way to go. Boreal Golds, TC Pros. Half size up at the most.
*note my opinion is weighted toward stirrup usage.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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T. Hocking already posted a picture of the "big wall" shoes I've used for 45 years. A few years ago, though, I added an old pair of Fires, re-soled with C4, to my tool kit. That combination has worked quite well so far, but my tendency to free climb might be (well, OK, almost certainly is) less than that of the OP.
John
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I have a pair of winter Megas that are real warm and comfy and do just fine on 5.10 if you are looking for the middle way.
I have been trying to get somebody to produce a velcro on instep support to take the bite out of standing in slings in snug shoes. Still a great idea...The Strap On!
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WBraun
climber
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Steve
I used 1/2 length plastic arch support insoles.
I had slight over sized Fire's with the arch supports so I could stand in aid ladders comfortably all day and still cut loose on free moves when ever I saw some.
When me a Dale did the shield we wore our free climbing shoes on the whole route.
We thought we were going to cut loose on the shield.
Hahaha ..... so stupid.
My big toes were bleeding when we topped out .....
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Yo @gnome! Ascenders! Woo-hoo! My best climbing buddy had those back in the day, and he did some good work with them. I, on the other hand, had slippery-as-snot RDs; I did bad work with them (mainly due to user error).
Rich Jones
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