shoe rec's for long aid/free routes

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
Pie

Trad climber
So-Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 21, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
what do you use as a free shoe when having to bust out of the ladders now and again on aid/free routes? Maybe some mid 11 fingers you need to aid for 50 feet, then switch back to low 10 free climbing for awhile in a single pitch. Trying to get my footwear dialed...
Please don't suggest just switching shoes.
Do you just size em up?
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Nov 21, 2014 - 06:07pm PT

case closed.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Nov 21, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
These!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Nov 21, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
Comfy free shoes. Any approach shoes on 10's would be sketchtastic. Just climb fas enough that you still feel your toes by the end of the pitch.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Nov 21, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
JADIAN

Trad climber
Manton
Mar 2, 2015 - 11:54am PT
Buy tc pro 1 full size larger, put hard plastic insert (the kind for arch support. Works like a charm.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 2, 2015 - 11:57am PT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Mar 2, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
What is the ratio of stirrups to free overall for your intended routes (not just the pitch)?

For a Waller that is going to do short sections of free, then something like the Evolv Maximus, or La Sportiva Mega Dru, or Boreal Big Wall Boot is like gold.

If you're more doing free overall, with some aid, and the hard part of the free is a short section like you describe on the one pitch, then a stiff free climbing shoe is the way to go. Boreal Golds, TC Pros. Half size up at the most.

*note my opinion is weighted toward stirrup usage.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 2, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
T. Hocking already posted a picture of the "big wall" shoes I've used for 45 years. A few years ago, though, I added an old pair of Fires, re-soled with C4, to my tool kit. That combination has worked quite well so far, but my tendency to free climb might be (well, OK, almost certainly is) less than that of the OP.

John
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 2, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
I have a pair of winter Megas that are real warm and comfy and do just fine on 5.10 if you are looking for the middle way.

I have been trying to get somebody to produce a velcro on instep support to take the bite out of standing in slings in snug shoes. Still a great idea...The Strap On!
WBraun

climber
Mar 2, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
Steve

I used 1/2 length plastic arch support insoles.

I had slight over sized Fire's with the arch supports so I could stand in aid ladders comfortably all day and still cut loose on free moves when ever I saw some.

When me a Dale did the shield we wore our free climbing shoes on the whole route.

We thought we were going to cut loose on the shield.

Hahaha ..... so stupid.

My big toes were bleeding when we topped out .....
Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
Mar 2, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
Yo @gnome! Ascenders! Woo-hoo! My best climbing buddy had those back in the day, and he did some good work with them. I, on the other hand, had slippery-as-snot RDs; I did bad work with them (mainly due to user error).

Rich Jones
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta