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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Great you guys are getting after it! Wife's surgery
is Dec 11th, + 6 weeks recovery. I realized it would
be the perfect time to get my Kaukulators resoled.
I sent my shoes to Barry's Resoles, should have
them back right about when my wife has recovered.
I have also reslung all of my old cams! In the
meantime, I will keep lurking on ST! Good Cheers
to All!
Bob Pinckney
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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Rick, I will send you a message today. I'd like to get out there if possible.
Wishing your wife a speedy recovery Bob. We'll get out and break in the new soles in no time! Hoping to get my wife back on the rock next year as well, maybe some of the easier routes at the Leap or Tahoe, or even out there close to you guys?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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By my count we now have 17 routes on The Sphinx and formations within 100 yards of it. With very few exceptions, all these routes have been moderate, well protected, bullet proof rock without any need of cleaning, and follow classic features. Still probably another 30-40 routes to go, but most of them are going to be more difficult. Lot's of highly featured face climbing to be done. Might soon be time to break out the drill gun.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Really enjoy this thread. Thanks for posting all!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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If you like the thread Vitaly maybe you should join us out there on the rock. The place is frequently climbable in winter when your Sierra walls are buried under ice and snow. Most of the remaining lines will take someone of your talent.
Yeah Tad, don't tell Phillo, he'll want us disarmed.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
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Shoes back from Barry's Resole!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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^^^^^ Time to burn some of that new rubber. Saturday ?
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Feb 10, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
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Always good to explore and make new moves
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Feb 11, 2016 - 06:09am PT
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Dome of the Rock, Saturday sounds good!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 07:58am PT
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We all met at Ferntucky (aka Fernly NV) at 9am. By noon, we had passed OJ's new digs, hiked the killer approach through ice and snow, a new (pot farm?) fenced-off, enormous, steel, windowless building, multiple-no-trespassing-posted new gate, and were basking in the perfect February sunshine, no long-johns required. Turned out to be around 60 degrees, so we ditched the cold-weather gear and suited up.
The route had previously stymied us, due to the cankle-snapping base block below the 9+ schmeery-lie-back-on-kitty-litter-cruxy-boulder-start. I suppose we could have gone super-oldschoole for the double-shoulder-stand jesus nut placement; but it somehow seemed more appropriate to pull a true ground-up 1st ascent, in good style, and just gofer it. All 10 feet of it. (Though in reality it was probably 6 ft. Guys overestimate, right?) Besides that, Bob had fresh resoles so I had to, or he was gonna blast it. Cause we all know new shoes won't make you climb better; but resoles will make you a rock god, and Bob was on fire!
I'm going to have to rely on Rick and Bob to fill in the details on grades and length; but overall the whole thing, bottom to top, is I think in the neighborhood of 400ft and tops out under easy conditions that drop around the 5.5ish range, though the majority (discounting the 9+ start) is in the 5.7 range, with mostly good pro on fantastic granite, with a couple short runouts and some kittly litter stuff in between. We swung leads under perfect sunshine and light breeze. You couldn't ask for a better day.
Made it back to Ferntucky around 5pm. Given the details of the route, the timing, and the conditions, I would like to propose a name for this route: Freeballing 9-5. Thoughts, gentlemen?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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yes, downloading...
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 09:16am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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Some stats:
415' old school 5.9
Pitch 1: 140'. A spot for the the leader is advised till they get the first pro at 15' above an ankle breaking pile of rocks at the start.
Pitch 2: 75' 5.7.
Pitch 3: 200' 5.7 to the top of the Rock or 170' to a walk off.
Incredible winter day. Not a cloud in the sky and perfect high 50's to low 60' on a very sunny face. Yeah, Bob was on fire. Fess up Bob- you have to be cheating by practicing at the rock gym.
EDIT: ST instructions say you can upload pic files up to 8mb, but I can never get anything over 5mb to upload. Any suggestions from the crowd? Free balling 9to 5 sounds good.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Nice job guys, you know how to have fun!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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No biggie. We'll get that little section of Crack next time we repeat the route. With our penchant for new routes that will be about never.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 15, 2016 - 07:36pm PT
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nice work guys, rock quality looks pretty agreeable!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 20, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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Had another great day on the south face of the Sphinx with Laine Christman. Sunny, very little wind, ambient temps never exceeded 45, but at times with the solar sw and reflected lw radiation it felt quite toasty-certainly shirts leave only. Did a great new route Twins Crack, handjams, finger jams, liebacks and face, 125' in the 5.9 range. Laine had some stoke going for toproping so we then did a pair of 110' crack/faceclimbs. One that laine did but I declined to try involved a 5.10-11 overhang and the other a 5.9 jamcrack/faceclimb. Both good routes but in need of leads. Finished up by running up Day Tripping which is a moderate classic. Below is a pic of Twins Crack.
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