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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 08:06am PT
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A few more routes up this crag and then we'll post up a mini guide so the more adept can hopefully establish more of the classis crack, face and roof lines. This place is unique. Free camping far from any crowds, a relatively short all downhill approach and a relatively short all level exit.
Stats for yesterdays climb tentively named Frustration: pitch 1- 130',.5.3d, or 170' if one starts at the toe of the buttress. Pitch 2 - 160' 5.3d, belay under a large roof. Pitch 3 50', 5.3d . Pitch 4 120' 5.3d, fifty feet up a finger crack and stuff above then fourth class scrambing. Then fifty feet of fourth class scrambling to the very top and level traversing exit off.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 26, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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^^^^
Hurr hurr hurr?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
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Okay,okay, i get that your growing weary of the 5.3d schtick.
Its kind of hard putting a number grade to new routes in never before climbed areas. You are not used to the peculiarities of the rock, the passage forward uncertain, your just thinking about adequate protection and not getting stuck in a runout position with the way forward unclimbable for you. Anyway if we had to put a number to it, probably in the 5.7 to 5.9 range with good pro, but leaning and awkward in places.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
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Ratings are invariably subjective though, arent they? I agree with your assessment though, and have no doubt there are both harder and easier routes up. Would be interesting to see somebody else pull through one of those roofs. The pack i think made the awkwardness most apparent, but still fun, and sure beat the hell out of going back to the base for shoes jackets etc. There are shorter single pitch climbs in the area as well.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
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Here is another obscurity for you. 1000' tall, 500' of slab topped by a 500' headwall, all appears glacially polished.
And down canyon from the above is crack city, 350'+ I estimate.
Too many good crags out there.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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Stay away!!! You might get stickers in your socks!!!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
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When are you guys going to be on Ellen's show?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
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Yes W.L., Nevadastan.
No Ellen, we're holding out for Jon Stewart.
Or chased off by Buzzworms, Fuzzy.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Jan 27, 2015 - 01:46am PT
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Cool to see what you guys are climbing out there. I ran across some obscure cliffs recently. Pretty freakin' remote though.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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Going on a recon of the next route up there tomorrow. My wife will be belaying and since she refuses to rappel or get more than one pitch off the ground it will be just a tentative exploration. All help is appreciated Ron. And Tad, if you like well protected moderates on great rock the route we did last weekend is for you.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
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Don't forget the extra R for SNORRT (Senior Nevada Obscure Rock Recon Team). Not sure I quite qualify as a senior yet, but I'm sure crabby enough.
I'd climb with ya any time, Tad. Ron, nice to see ya around. Got a new 223 to sight in some time.
I would like to join you Rick, as you know we were supposed to go to Sacramento this weekend, but both the kids have been throwing up for three days, and I think I'd be in serious trouble if I left Brenda alone with them tomorrow. Your wife might enjoy one of those little short walls too, and the one Brenda and I did has a pretty easy walk off with a little scrambling there and has fair anchors at the top.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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Laptop died and I had to fix it. Ran across some old pictures, not sure I even remember where these are. Guess I need to get out and find them!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 13, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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Great day out in the NV wilds on "Exploratory Surgery Crag". Route follows cracks and face near left hand skyline. Three pitches 1) 100' 5.5 . 2) 125' 5.9 ends on a perfectly flat golden ledge on the prow of the butress. 3).140' 5.7 follows a perfect right leaning finger crack 50' to the top of "Aguille du Mini", then lowers off the backside to a notch and 80' fourth class romp to the very summit.
Bob leading pitch 2.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2015 - 11:13pm PT
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Nice. I thought you might be tempted to get on that pile. Good name too. Looks like a beautiful day to get out, vs stuck in the office like me. Maybe later this weekend?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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It's not a pile JR. There are at least a dozen quality routes on this formation, though as usual most are beyond my age diminished abilitity. You probably have monday off for presidents day? That would be a good day, weather permitting. Pic of the start of pitch three.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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Heh, that was tongue-in-cheek! Looks like a lot of fun. I'll talk to the better half and see if she'll let me out.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 09:19am PT
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From the top of the crag I was spying additional road access that opens up another multi mile section of formation studded ridge to easy approach access. Beginning to think this area will exceed, Donner, Woodfords, or even rival the Leap and hwy 50 corridor as a source of a high quantity and quality climbing within easy reach of the greater Reno/Tahoe/Carson area climbers.another pic taken by Bob that shows the unusually perfect mid winter climbing conditions.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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Very cool stuff guys... You sure know how to get a guys blood pumping for NV obscurities... Exceeding Donner or Woodfords??? Ridiculously bold, but I like it...
Here's some armchair research to keep in the spirit, looks abundant and large.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 14, 2015 - 11:52am PT
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Been paging through this string looking for some info on the big cave west of Ely above 6/50. Heard about some stuff being done out there in the 5.13 range.
Routes? Pics?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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thats about 10 grades over our level.. sorry.
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