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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 11, 2014 - 07:54am PT
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OK, since one of my Mythos was inadvertently left at the base of Warlock Needle, where it will likely spend a long, lonely winter, and because my Ninjas (yes, you read that correctly) are about to give up the ghost, I'm looking at something to replace the latter. I'm asking on this site since many of you have the historical reference of past shoes to know what I'm looking for. I'd like something to replace the Ninja, but a little beefier, so I can wear them on roped stuff like thin cracks or climbing face at Josh or Suicide. Too much of what I've seen are either the downturned toe shoes or the heavy, inexpensive clunkers. FYI, I'll probably be getting some TC Pros to replace the Mythos, so I'm looking more for a lighter shoe. Sorry for the novel.
What do you folks like these days?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 11, 2014 - 08:00am PT
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Moccasym
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 11, 2014 - 08:00am PT
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It's Veteran's day, both Sports Chalet & REI have big sales going on today. Just go get whatever they have, it's on sale. Use a credit card that has points as well as your membership club card so you get maximum return. Sports Chalet probably has a slightly better deal.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Nov 11, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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Try some Mocasyms. I've had 2 pair. Used them for everything. They are still slippers though.
I think you can still get a version of the ninja.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 11, 2014 - 08:14am PT
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Fat.... Mythos. I love Mythos, they fit my feet like a glove. Put the TC on your feet, if they fit you will love em, if like me and they don't, you won't, then go with the Mythos.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2014 - 08:56am PT
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Thanks for the replies dudes. How do Mocasymms (sp?) fit narrower feet? I've generally stuck with La Sportiva since they have a narrower fit. And Guy, I like my Mythos now that they're broken in, though they felt clunky at first, but would hate to buy another pair when there's at least a (slim) chance I'll find the missing shoe. Plus, it'd be nice to have something that edges a bit better. The Mythos are more of a "smedging" shoe.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Nov 11, 2014 - 09:32am PT
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Try the Evolv Defy to replace the Ninjas. I loved my Ninjas and the Defys are pretty close and are a good shoe if your feet are a bit wide. They have much better feel than Mocassims.
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john bald
climber
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Nov 11, 2014 - 09:34am PT
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If you have a fat foot and want an all day, do anything shoe, checkout the TechnoX by Scarpa. Good alternative for the TCPro with little or no breakin time.
I have been on them for a season since my Acopas are no longer serviceable.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
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Bump for a couple of reasons. One, I picked up a pair of TC Pros at A-16, since my bday is coming up and the all their shoes are 25% off.
Second, I'm looking at the Mocasyms to replace my Ninjas as a gym/bouldering shoe. How much stretch should I figure when buying. I remember buying Ninjas that were foot crushing tight because of the anticipated stretch, but not sure if that's as much of an issue with the Mocasyms.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 22, 2014 - 12:31am PT
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What about the Muira's since you like la sportiva anyways, they have a thinner toe box and look kind of edgy. I've seen lots of friends use them for both crack and face pitches, but they've never made a pair big enough for me.. Lol
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Nov 22, 2014 - 05:07am PT
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Mythos? Not my choice ---------------the leather is easily stretched which gives a short life--soon you have loose shoes[no edging power] and a resoling may only be good for a bigger foot. Get synthetic uppers and get several resoles for a shoe that remains the same size.
I have muiras, 2 pr 5.10 Anasazi [ 2 sizes] verdes, evolvs shamin and one pair of the white synthetic Anasazi [stiff] in my working set but would choose the 5.10 verdes if had to have only one pair.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 22, 2014 - 05:50am PT
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I size down my Mocs a whole size+ from street. 10.5/11>>>9.5.
They stretch a lot but you'll know when they hit their sweet spot. They'll stay there for a while before getting too floppy but usually they're toast by then anyway. For me at least. This is the only shoe I wear.
Remember, you'll have Mocfoot for a while.
Your feet will be strong but red.
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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
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