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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 29, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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There have been so many crazy rules over the last hundred years.
Chalk.
Cams were actually debated. "Crack Jumars" they were called by at least one writer.
Yo-yo'ing. Pulling the rope but leaving the gear in. That was considered OK, but now it is a pink point or something.
OK. Help me out. List all of the rules, past and present.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
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The crack Jumar was an early cam, actually.
http://www.needlesports.com/NeedleSports/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm
Yo-yoing does not involve pulling the rope. It's left in place.
If you pull the rope and leave the gear in place, that's a pink point.
At some point in the early 90s, people started extending the definition
of redpoint to cover pinkpoint in terms of draws preclipped into bolts.
(In some real steep areas, draws are fixed).
"ethics" are supposed to be about making decisions when one person's actions affect others. Examples: bolting, chipping, dealing with crowded routes.
"style" is when your choice just affects you. Examples: whether you freed the route by one definition or another, what non-damaging gear you used.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
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redpoint to cover pinkpoint in terms of draws preclipped into bolts
and to those people I say hang your own, or at least say it was with preclipped draws.
How about no chipping Base?
Or no power drilling in areas where it is illegal to power drill?
do you want it in the form of a question?
Like whether it is appropriate to sculpt hand holds in otherwise unclimable terrain, since cleaning a route of loose rock is acceptable?
set some rules for the rules! :)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 29, 2014 - 10:53pm PT
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*facepalm*
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
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^^^ lol
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
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Stuff like chipping has always been bad, but I've heard some stories..
Aid climbing rules used to be pretty big deals.
And yep, I should have made it a question. Maybe I can nuke this thread and start another, but I never start threads.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
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Bolting easily protectable cracks is bad, Mmmkay?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
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Bolting anchors instead of strangling trees with tat is preferable.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
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adding bolts to an existing route without consent is a problemo
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:32pm PT
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Hammering the crap out of C2+ is weak, hell hammering C3 is weak.
Get more gear, get better technique.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Oct 29, 2014 - 11:32pm PT
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Nice to see you start a thread BASE.
I have heard that bitd, there were a lot of rules about what you climb and with whom etc in regards to mountaineering. I know that actual climbing shoes were considered cheating when they came out.
In the Elb region of Germany, metal protection and chalk are still not allowed, and you can only climb towers, crags attached to hills are off limits.
I'd like to hear more about the ethics that existed in the 50s and 60s and when certain rules became passé.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 30, 2014 - 03:36am PT
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How about the rap bolting vs ground up controversy?
Edit. I am talking about the advent of rap bolting in the 80s.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 30, 2014 - 04:13am PT
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Kicking cats... not so good.
Drop-kicking yappy little pseudo-dogs? Priceless!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2014 - 07:09am PT
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I had been thinking of Hall of Mirrors and all of the slander that went around the valley. Geez, Madbolter, WOS was nigh accused of, well, everything. I was cowardly, and tried to fit in. It was a full time job.
Some of the old rules, which by God I followed like they were Gospels, now seem kind of silly. I watched the video of Sharma and Ondra on La Dura Dura, and that sorta set me in my place.
Long ago, I had been doing this one move wonder route and wiring the crux. One day I was there with a guy from Colorado who couldn't do it ( besides being far better than I), and got up the guts to solo it. He looks at me and says, "Just exactly WHAT are you going to say you did?"
See? I had done the route with a rope. The solo was tainted.
I knew that. It wasn't a secret. Everyone knew that I had it wired, and I'd been on many solo's before. Somehow it was an ethical breach.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Oct 30, 2014 - 07:16am PT
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Sticky rubber was debated. Some insisted that climbs have separate ratings for sticky rubber or that sticky rubber should not be used since it was "cheating".
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 30, 2014 - 07:21am PT
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Lunging is cheating. The move is way harder when climbed static.
Please forward this to Sharma.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 30, 2014 - 07:23am PT
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1. Don't die
2. Don't get hurt
3. Don't hurt the climb.
4. Do whatcha like
5. Be honest
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Oct 30, 2014 - 09:14am PT
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Coveting is strictly prohibited
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thebravecowboy
climber
hold on tight boys
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Oct 30, 2014 - 09:17am PT
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don't crap on the route
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 30, 2014 - 09:18am PT
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If you have rules it is not climbing it is sport.
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