World wide granite thread

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2014 - 09:14am PT
While I tend to spend a lot of time locally, there's granite all over the place...

http://www.onegeology.org

yet there aren't a whole lot of trip reports from these far flung (from here) regions. Happened twice in a month that I've stumbled across climbing trips...

one was velvet!'s great presentation at the FaceLift on her adventures in the wilds of South America... another was a reference in the NYTimes this morning which led me to this 2002 AAC page:
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212260/Keketuohai-National-Park-new-routes-and-access

There have been some threads on granite but not enough climbing... how about it STForum?!


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1498599
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Brazil-Granite-Bouldering-By-The-Ocean/t10848n.html
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=731799
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=645370&msg=645370#msg645370
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=643468&msg=643468#msg643468

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=20746&msg=20746#msg20746
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Oct 23, 2014 - 09:21am PT
^^^^
That's amazingly beautiful!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 23, 2014 - 10:29am PT
^^^ +1 Yes yes yes!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Oct 23, 2014 - 10:45am PT
Always good stuff from you Ed. Thanks!
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Oct 23, 2014 - 11:36am PT
Stunning picture (China BTW). Like how the helmet matches the leaves. What a cute little buttress by the road.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Oct 23, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
I also must add:

El-Capitan-Geologic-Mapping-Project
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Oct 23, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
Granite is a big word in geology. What most of us call plain old granite actually has a more precise name, depending on percentage of mineral constituents.

"Granitoid" rocks come in a nigh endless number of flavors. Too bad Brian Law doesn't post here. Igneous rocks were his thing. I work with sedimentary rocks. So don't ask me to do it.

The rock which I see incorrectly identified, lately, is quartzite, a metamorphosed sandstone.

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Oct 23, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
The granite of Val Bregaglia on the Swiss Italian border is accessible via a Seilbahn from Vicososprano, Switzwerland. It has a broad range of alpine, multi-pitch climbs on excellent granite. You can stay at the Albigna hut where you can get an excellent meal and a bunk to sleep on. This area is only about 10 km away from the trailhead to the Sasc Fura Hut and the Piz Badile.




zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Oct 23, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
Mother good one Doc H.

Why do iPhones persist in changing what you type? I said nother not mother,

Let it be.

Don't take anything for granite,
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Oct 23, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Oct 23, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
Apple mind is not aimed for climbers, Z
the Swiss Have great granite
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 24, 2014 - 01:37am PT
Vedauwoo, the world's premier, granite.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 24, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
plutonic = intrusive
volcanic = extrusive

Pajamas

climber
Wilderness, Home
Oct 24, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 24, 2014 - 05:01pm PT

Coast Plutonic Complex
largest exposed granite body in the world
too many unclimbed walls to name or count let alone climb
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Oct 24, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Oct 24, 2014 - 06:31pm PT
Excellent photo jgill!


Granitic.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 24, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
hey there, say, ed! love this granit, stuff!!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Oct 24, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Oct 24, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
Someone mentioned granite aficionado Brian Law up thread. He took me to see these Ladder Dikes in Cathedral Peak granodiorite.

LADDER DIKES, CRAZY GEOCHEMISTRY, AND LIQUID IMMISCIBILITY(?) IN OTHERWISE SANE GRANODIORITES
https://gsa.confex.com/gsa/2012CD/finalprogram/abstract_201686.htm

Exfoliation Dome, Darrington, Washington

Castle Crags, Mt Hubris, Cosmic Wall
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Oct 25, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
a little chunk that was previously unclimbed in the NV wilds, many more out there
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Oct 25, 2014 - 06:30pm PT

oh, yeah!
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Oct 25, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
This granite is a long way from home...Bodega Head

Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 26, 2014 - 12:08am PT
Wow Tuolumne_tradster that Swiss stuff is fantastic. That peak on the left in the fourth shot is a uniquely striking piece of rock.
I found some quality Granite in Switzerland at Grimsel Pass at a place called Eldorado. It's googleable.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Oct 26, 2014 - 01:39am PT
Flip Flop: The peak on the left is the Punta Pioda. The spire next to it is the Ago di Scoiora. They are located in the Bregalia Range near the Piz Badile and the town of Vicosoprano.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 26, 2014 - 08:57am PT

Be sure not to take it for granite!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Oct 26, 2014 - 11:12am PT
On top of that snow-patched hill on the other side of the lake is an area known as "El Frey" and it is one of the premier granite climbing areas in South America.



Close up the rock formations look like this


and this


and that


Here's what it looks like when you're hiking up to do a climb




The routes are short by Yosemite standards: the biggest formations are maybe five to six hundred feet high (around seven pitches for the longest routes). However the granite is generally of excellent quality (as are most of the routes) and the new guide has around 500 existing climbs.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Oct 26, 2014 - 11:12am PT
I found some quality Granite in Switzerland at Grimsel Pass at a place called Eldorado.

We visited Grimsel Pass briefly this summer. Only time for one route (9 pitches) but that was great fun and I'd love to go back.


Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Oct 26, 2014 - 11:35am PT
Chiloe, Grimsel Pass looks a bit like Cannon.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Oct 26, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
Early Tertiary Tonalitic Granite of the Piz Badile

Badile Nordkante (Photo Bill McConachie)
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Oct 27, 2014 - 09:36am PT
Chiloe, Grimsel Pass looks a bit like Cannon.

Not the same sense that whole pitches might soon exfoliate off, but the area we climbed looked like a bad place to be in a storm -- lots of debris on the upper mountain that could get washed down the slabs.

It was pretty cool climbing all day above that green glacier silt lake, with higher peaks around.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Oct 27, 2014 - 09:42am PT
The most recent far-away climbing on granite that I've done was in Soeul, South Korea.

fgw

climber
portland, or
Oct 27, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
Crackless granites of Madagascar:
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Oct 27, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
^^^^
Wow

Sure that's not Water Cracks on Lembert Dome?
Me thinks yer pulling my leg
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Oct 27, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
bump
thanks . again awsome !!!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 28, 2014 - 10:34am PT
Pusan, Korea (1977)


Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 28, 2014 - 10:41am PT
nice pics from Pusan.

Rick, nice pic from the NV.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 28, 2014 - 01:38pm PT
I've heard there is granite in Canada

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Nov 14, 2014 - 10:42am PT
FYI...paper on how granite fracturing influences the tuolumne meadows landscape

http://www.geosociety.org/gsatoday/archive/24/11/article/i1052-5173-24-11-4.htm
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Nov 14, 2014 - 11:26am PT
I'm not sure I buy that GSA Today article. It is an interesting idea, but the authors presented NO data regarding fracture density and simply said "TFCs (tabular fracture clusters) are more abundant in certain areas". I would have loved to have seen data regarding their orientation and abundance. They claim that the fractures "probably" exist under the alluvium of Tuolumne Meadows without backing that up with any evidence. The article seemed to be to be a whole lot of arm waving. I'm surprised that it made it into GSAT.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Nov 14, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
RP3: Figure 3 in the article is a map showing distribution of tabular fracture cluster density. That map is based on the Riley and Tikoff, 2010 paper which has data on fracture spacing, orientation, etc.

Judging from the photo shown in Fig 7a, dude looks like he could be a climber. Hard to find a better place than Tuolumne to do field work on granite fractures.

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0191814110001628
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 14, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
You want granite? Okay, here's granite.


The smaller chunk on the left is about one-third again bigger than El Cap. The bigger one is about 7.000 ft from base to summit.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 14, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
Ghost; ^ Himalayas? When?

What a good thread topic, Ed!.
All below are West Coast of NA or central AK, and don't even include Squamish.


up close on one of the middle faces.





These last three are the same place, but I couldn't control myself.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Nov 14, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
My issue with figure 3 is that it is not quantitative. What is "high density" and what is "low density"? How were these categories arrived at quantitatively? I guess I need to look at the Riley and Tickoff paper.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Nov 14, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
RP3: yes, I can email you a copy of that paper.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
Nov 14, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
Thanks, TT. I am psyched to see it. I saw one of their research group give a talk at GSA this year and it was similarly vague.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Nov 14, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
RP3: They define TFCs as having a fracture density > 4 fractures per 10 cm in Cathedral Peak granodiorite. This is an arbitrary field description that they came up with. They define Low TFC density as 2 to 5 meter TFC spacing; high TFC density < 2 meter spacing. I sent my email address via the ST tool. Send me an email to that address and I'll send you the paper.
Psilocyborg

climber
Nov 15, 2014 - 09:46am PT
Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic
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