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WBraun
climber
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Oct 29, 2014 - 09:29am PT
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I really want men and women to be equal in all things.
LOL
Men will become pregnate and give birth ...... :-)
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 29, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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Thanks for sharing the stoke RP3!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2014 - 10:23am PT
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Second that!
Mayan came over to speak at the Oakdale Festival with some generous support from the good folks at Five Ten and Adidas.
Her presentation was beyond inspiring and she has done herself and her sponsors proud by logging a fantastic time on El Cap and otherwise getting after it!
Hats off to Quinn and Libby for their doubler in a day!
All of these amazing gals are setting them up and knocking them back in proud style.
My intention in structuring the Oakdale Festival this year was to take an inside look at the convergence in standards over the last 100 years between the men's and women's climbing- the Parallel Realms as I chose to frame it in discussion. This trend toward equivalence has everything to do with mentoring and accessible role models out in the world of climbing.
It does no disservice to anyone to keep track of firsts by women. Speed and stacking routes have always been of interest to me as a clear measure of accomplishment.
The true mark on the Nose is still Lynn's time leading it all and all free which should be seeing some action here next season as the stable of powerful women keeps growing and flourishing. The ripples from this great example twenty years ago are still churning up the waters in Yosemite- in my opinion the single greatest accomplishment in American free climbing.
Inspiration and imagination know no bounds and I for one am thrilled to watch it all unfold so beautifully. Lots of room without a roof on the Captain for everyone that desires to get happy up there!
Proud climbing gals!
And proud climbing on Freerider guys! Time to clear many of those bolts off and restore the line to its original condition, IMO. The future always arrives hungry for more...
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2014 - 06:02am PT
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The word is Jorg Verhoeven just freed the Nose! WOW! I can't wait to hear the details.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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^
Is it really news when a man repeats something a woman did 20 years ago? :)
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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^ good one dhayan
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couchmaster
climber
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Sure it is, given how many times it's been freed (very few times). And as far as keeping a womens record goes, Libby has a great point: and they still got up it (twice) faster than 99.89 percent of men, and that's damned noteworthy. Just like when Jim Herson takes a couple of middleschoolers up it and they do it in a day. LOL.
2 El Cap routes in a a day! Good job and congrats Mayan and Libby.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Look we've been over all this before, I'll try to summarize some key points:
Men and women are, on average, different, so it's unrealistic to expect equality of results in anything where those differences are relevant. For example, women on average earn less because they take time off for child bearing / rearing (among other reasons).
In most athletic events, men have advantages due to being generally larger/stronger/faster.
But in climbing, where strength to weight is important (rather than absolute strength), and where smaller hands and feet confer a distinct advantage (depending on the climb) women can surpass men on certain climbs.
For example, it is likely far easier for small women such as Lynn Hill to free the Nose than it is for an average sized man to do the same. Accordingly, any climb having an extremely body-size dependent crux (such as the Nose) should not be used as a standard to evaluate overall climbing competency.
And what is up with the picture of the two young ladies with "King Cobra" cans?? I assume that was some sort of joke and they weren't actually drinking that vile substance.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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haha, nice troll attempt...
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