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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Yesterday I did my first big wall, a 17 hour NIAD. (I had help from a wall vet)
For me the most excruciating part was the harness (BD Chaos- its the only thing I've got) cutting in to my flesh on the last few pitches of jugging. The rest of the suffering involved was tame by comparison.
Well the descent was kinda gnarl too......
What say you!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 18, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
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BITD tried them all ....YATES......Yates Harnesses.
YATES used to make a tie on Model and would customize per request...
had one that was Fuzzy and soft but the one I liked best
was a tie-on one with adjustable everything sick padding sandwiched into
the swami
Also a small ,off to the side buckle just to hold the rig on; the doc had cut off my Iliac crests
(pointy bits of the hip bones used in bone grafts, I hope you never have to know any more about that)
http://vocr.sri.com/herson/climbing/tr/niad-kara.html
edit ; I forgot to say good on 'ya that's is the faschizzel
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 18, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
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uncomfortable harness is good therefore go faster
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Easy Wind
Trad climber
Oakland, California
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Oct 18, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
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Congrats on the NIAD!
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Oct 18, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
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^^^^^
hahaha!!!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Oct 18, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
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hardest element is either training for the in-a-day or having not trained sufficiently for the in-a-day. The latter is usually harder
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Oct 18, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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Stopping yourself from doing it again and again.
:P
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 18, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
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Never done a wall IAD (successfully) but the crux of my Sierra C2C trips is that most partners are strong climbers or strong hikers - rarely both. As a strong hiker I'm gassed at the cruxes but running back to the car with allll the gear while the rock jock pukes his guts out far behind.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 18, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
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Apparently it's spelling.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Oct 20, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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Peter,
I thought Americans don't do irony, spelling, grammar,or punctuation?
Not that I do mind you, pot kettle and all.
Steve
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 11:18am PT
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Congrats, Snowhazed! NIAD, with or without a badass partner tilting the scale, is elite. Give us some details on how it went! What was the second most difficult aspect?
I agree with the poster above - Yates is truck. I use the Shield and love it for walls. But if you plan on keeping up the fast and light efforts, maybe check out their streamlined models? The Astroman looks pretty sweet - 4 oz. lighter than the Shield.
http://yatesgear.com/climbing/big/
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 20, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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The balls to go try it - get a bigger harness.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
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Thanks for the congrats, the climb went pretty well. We blasted to the king swing in around 4.5 hours, leading the stovelegs and running it out huge on the glory hands was one of the coolest things ever. I used a bunch of energy getting over the flakes at the beginning of the texas flake, with all the gear snagging, and then things slowed for me further after getting punished pretty hard on the swing and the fatigue starting to set in. Having just learned to lower out I was slow on a few, especially late in the climb.
The pitches above the great roof all the way to the bolt ladder are just ridiculously splitter. Now I know why people call it the best climb on the planet.
More fitness, maybe a better hybrid harness for next time!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 20, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
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The hardest part? Getting up so damned early in the morning....
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 20, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
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The speedy class wakes up at 8:00 in the morning.
Then goes to the cafe, drinks coffee, smokes cigarets, talks sh!t till 10:00 am.
Then runs to the nose and tops out at 12:30 in afternoon, runs down and goes to deli for more hanging out and sh!t talking.
They never go to the bridge where all the poseurs are posing .......
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 06:42pm PT
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haha- we started at 7 am, never stopped by the bridge, alaways talk sh#t- only semi-poseur status
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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lol, the real ones go to the bridge, but they blend in well with the poseurs. I don't mind if the real ones want to hang out with me. :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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oh, and huge grats on the IAD!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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Sad to hear the bridge has become poseur status (that's where we used to rack up BITD).
We used to think IAD meant starting and ending at midnight. That was a huge error in judgement and a stupidly imposed "rule". When we tried Shield IAD, we started at midnight, got to Chickenhead around dusk, then had to climb the rest in the dark--but Mike's headlamp broke and we were exhausted--it had been cold and windy all day and all we had were t-shirts--so after a ptich above Chickenhead we bailed back to the ledge and we bivied through the cold, cold night.
Going from night to day to night was brutal--the body doesn't seem to like two nights in a row without sleep. Starting at dawn and climbing through one night makes much more sense. Or starting at dusk and finishing in the day...
This doesn't apply for NIAD, which can be done in daylight even on the shortest day of the year ;)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 20, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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Id say staying well nourished and excited. At some point I usually lose psyche, like when I get tired.
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