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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 10, 2014 - 08:40am PT
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In the last few years I have experienced 2 motorcycle accidents, broken heart, and now I'm dealing with Cancer.
Endeavour to persevere!
I see my doctor today, but have a tentative projected return target date of 11/01 at Joshua Tree.
I figure it's time I start replacing my pre historic gear.
Out with my 12mm cord, Whillans sit harness, and Joe Brown helmet.
I have read the gear reviews here, and they have been very helpful.
Since I am starting over in JT, this will be my primary usage. Just cragging. Probably not much sporto stuff, and nothing harder than 11a.
Cord - 60M seems like the standard, and I hear skinny is in now. Some sort of abrasion resistance sheath would be nice.
Helmet - No clue here. Never really been a helmet guy, but probably a good idea now, for at least the lead climbing part.
Harness - A lot out there. Have always liked adjustable leg loops, but not a solid requirement. I see that Auto Buckle is a new buzz word, but not really sure what that's all about. Heard Misty Mountain Cadilac is nice.
I appreciate any and all constructive advice.
Hope to see someone from here on the crag in a few weeks.
EDIT - yeah, I know I'm gonna die, but not today.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 10, 2014 - 08:46am PT
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hey there say, zip... was just getting off line and saw this...
say, prayers and hopes and wishes, for you to reach these goals...
so wonderful to see you making the dreams come true, that are within
your grasp...
each day, is a new page of the ol' book...
there's a place for you to fill in, the things that are dear to you...
hope folks show up fast, for just the perfect info, you need,
and hug those crags out there and breathe the fresh air...
and may you feel 'brand new' again...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 10, 2014 - 11:09am PT
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The new foam helmets look like the ticket for full on head impacts as a result of a lead fall.. I might just invest in one myself...
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 10, 2014 - 11:11am PT
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BD momentum harness is good and reasonably priced. These new skinney ropes are slicker than a wet snake; take some getting used to.
Paging mayor Todd Gordon.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 10, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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The new foam helmets look like the ticket for full on head impacts as a result of a lead fall.
Not to be adversary, but just to weigh in with additional considerations, actual observation and accident reports suggests this is either not so, or only a part of the issue.
Go to this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2503323/Rescue-underway-on-the-Nose-10-3-any-details
And also click over to the elcapreport.com photo report on it for additional detail and literally gory details. The point is, those new fangled foam top-of-the-head-only helmets are maybe not actually very good for some (most?) lead climbing head injuries.
My take is, you can just plain not fall, or if you would like to have that option (I do), probably go with a helmet that covers more of the sides of your head. It may be that these side-impact accidents aren't that numerous in the whole list of falls where helmets saved people's lives, but still, it's a consideration.
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ryanb
climber
Hamilton, MT
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Oct 10, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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Mongrel, I thought the HB helmet listed in that report was one of the old suspension style ones not a bike helmet style foam one?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Oct 10, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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I'd get a 70m rope. I'd also go to Nomad's and try several helmets and harnesses on. They fit everyone a little differently.
Edit: What shoes will you be wearing for climbing and perhaps for approach?
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Oct 10, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
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When I returned after a substantial layoff my mistake was to get involved in efforts that were over my head---such as an entire day wasted horrendously scrambling in the Wonderland of Rocks( due to deteriorated trail finding skills and memory);and elsewhere getting benighted on a multi pitch route, dressed only in t-shirt and shorts (due to a very slow partner, and a stupid late start. )
There were other examples--- all because of poor judgement ,the result of not climbing for a time.
For now ,if I were you ,I'd probably stick to one pitch routes with a minimum of hikin'
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 10, 2014 - 02:54pm PT
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i have a Misty Mountain Cadillac. It is a little heavy, but bomber and comfortable.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Oct 10, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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Made my day to read your post, Zip!
Either of the harnesses mentioned here would be a good choice. A 9.7 Blue Water Lightning Pro would be a great rope for you.
Look forward to seeing some shots of you getting off the deck!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 10, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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RyanB, you might be right; I was responding to the sentence that I quoted. My point about helmets was, consider possible side impact in choosing a helmet. Maybe the one in that recent fall had great side protection (for a climbing helmet, which means not very good compared with other types of helmets); or not. Just that it's a selection criterion at some level. And don't fall anyway. The often heard baloney that if you are not falling you're not going to be able to extend your abilities is a bunch of hooey. Messner, Croft, Honnold, Shultz, the list goes on and on, don't fall much (at all?) and have done some pretty rad climbing both solo and roped.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 10, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
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Made my day to read your post, Zip!
Mine, too! Yippeee......Zipeeeeee
Susan
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 10, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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and nothing harder than 11a.
Still using your PAs? Upgrade and you could go to 12c
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 10, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
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Not to be adversary, but just to weigh in with additional considerations, actual observation and accident reports suggests this is either not so, or only a part of the issue.
He was wearing a HB Carbon fiber Spectra helmet. I'm interested to know whether a different type of helmet would have protected his skull better. There's barely a dint on the helmet but his fracture is just above his right ear.
http://www.climbing.com/gear/hb-dyneema-helmet-review/
Summary: For those who can’t bear to part with their old fiberglass Joe Brown, the HB Dyneema is for you. It’s almost the same shape, but weighs significantly less than its older sibling, thanks to its unique and visually stunning Dyneema (known in the United States as Spectra) and carbon fiber construction.
The new foam bike like helmet designs are the new wave in side impact protection.. A bike helmet would probably be better.. But who wants to wear a bike helmet at the crags? Lol
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Helmet-Reviews/Petzl-Sirocco
This is what i was talking about..
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 10, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Zip-
The most important component of your system is a good partner. One who has "been there, done that."
Ropes: I'd suggest a good 10mm x 60 meter rope, either Edelweiss, Edelrid, or Mammut. I currently have a 9.8 mm x 70 meter Edelweiss for City of Rocks use; the routes in JT are generally shorter.
Helmets: I have a Black Diamond "Half Dome" which saved my skull in Eldo back in 2010, so I didn't replace it until this year with an Italian made "Camp" foam style helmet.
Harnesses: too many options to consider; try them on at Nomad's.
I'll PM you later re: climbing in November; I have plans to be there myself.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Oct 10, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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Hey Zip, super stoked to hear about your return.
For my two cents, I currently run a 60m Bluewater Lightning Pro 9.7 that I have been super happy with, and for sport cragging I have one of those ultralight Arc'teryx harnesses - a lot of people prefer the stretch leg loops, but I got mine with the adjustables. Not sure how well it would hold up in Josh though, it seems so flimsy haha.
Trad harness is a Astroman which is pretty bullet proof but heavy.
Have a standard plastic Camp helmet, haven't really looked at the newer ones with the foam and such so I dont really have an opinion on them.
Oh and for Josh you will always need a "rope that's too long" (Ask RLF)
Berg heil!
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Oct 10, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
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Zip, good for you !!
I'll be in JT on the 1st, shoot me a msg
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 10, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
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Zips the man!
Never keep a good man down ......
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