The ASCA needs your help!


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Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
Please help - the ASCA needs donations now! With a surge in demand, we are out of cash to buy more bolts, and we just ran out of our primary 1/2" bolt (and we also ran out of quick-links a few weeks back). As more and more "early sport climbing" areas move into wholesale replacement of all bolts, this year the ASCA sent out far more than ever before - over 5,000 bolts! With over 80% of those bolts either 1/2" stainless or stainless glue-ins (and also titanium glue-ins), the cost per bolt has been increasing steadily. Gifts from our few larger donors have never recovered to even half of pre-recession levels. If it wasn't for the awesome team at Planet Granite and the huge fundraisers they've put on in San Francisco for the ASCA for the past 3 years, we'd never have been able to afford what we've already distributed! Northern California climbers have provided the bulk of ASCA donations for years, but as you can see from the list below, it's time for climbers all over to chip in!

The ASCA is a 501(c)3 non-profit. Please donate today - either donate at (the "Make a Donation" button on the upper right), or send a check to: ASCA, PO Box 1814, Bishop, CA 93515.

Here's the bolts we sent out so far in 2014 - note that lots of folks have bolts from previous years and are replacing at spots not on this list!

The short version of the list - by state:

California 1244
Colorado 1100
Wyoming 800
Nevada 450
Oregon 350
Kentucky 250
Arizona 214
Utah 200
Tennessee 200
Alaska 150
Washington 100
North Carolina 50
West Virginia & Virginia 50
Pennsylvania 150 links/rings

And the detailed list since the start of 2014 - remember this is what we sent out, not what has been replaced - many people are replacing with previous ASCA gear, and many of these bolts haven't been replaced yet (some are in the mail right now). Also this list does NOT include 400 titanium bolts and 500 beefy titanium rap rings that the ASCA purchased in late 2013 for bolt replacement in Thailand!

800 bolts Wild Iris/Sinks
632 bolts Yosemite Valley
500 bolts Shelf Rd
450 bolts Red Rocks
350 bolts Independence Pass & Rifle
250 bolts Red River Gorge
250 bolts Penitente
200 bolts Obed
200 bolts French's Dome & Broughton's Bluff
170 bolts Mt. Lemmon
150 bolts Smith Rocks
150 links, rings Safe Harbor Crag, PA
120 bolts Mt. Diablo & north bay crags
120 bolts Highway 108 & the Grotto
100 bolts Index
100 bolts Pinnacles
80 bolts Zion
80 bolts Tahquitz/Suicide & Joshua Tree
75 bolts Seward Highway AK
75 bolts Hatcher Pass AK
60 bolts Tuolumne Meadows
60 bolts Southern Sierra
50 bolts Southern Yosemite
50 bolts Seneca & Buzzard Rocks
50 titanium bolts North Coast CA
50 bolts desert towers Utah
50 bolts North Carolina crags
50 bolts Big Cottonwood Canyon
50 bolts El Portrero Chico
44 bolts Cochise Stronghold
22 bolts Tahoe crags
20 bolts Indian Creek
10 bolts Mt. Woodson

5268 bolts (not including links/rings, drill bits, glue-in supplies, patch epoxy, hole brushes, etc)

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 2, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
Uh, Greg, while you're giving credit to and details about all that ASCA does, how about a little credit for what's not on your list?

How many hours (this year alone) have you put into just running ASCA? How about the other people who run it with you? And I'm not even talking about the re-bolters; they put in tons of hours, sweat and work, but perhaps get more thanks for it. Nope, you need credit for all the effort it takes just to make sure that such an organization even exists.


P.S. I'll put $ 100.00 in the mail tomorrow.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 2, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
Don't forget folks, that many of your corporate types have companies that will match your donations to a certain amount. Don't leave that money on the table!

Drop down for ASCA and Access Fund TODAY!!!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 2, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
Good job Greg. I'm off to the Creek at the crack of dawn but I'll be at the PO on monday.
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2014 - 07:47pm PT
Thanks Brad!

The biggest credit always goes to the folks out working HARD to replace bolts! Too many to name, but close to home Roger Brown takes the cake with over 2,500 bolts HAND DRILLED in Yosemite Valley - not even including hundreds in Tuolumne! When we started supporting his replacement, I had to convince him to stop hand drilling 3.5" holes in granite - he thought 2.25" were "too short"!

For running the ASCA, thanks to Chris McNamara for starting the ASCA as a 501(c)3 (after Steve Sutton's early start of the ASCA years before), handling the fundraising auctions, and still handling some behind the scenes stuff.

Big thanks to Karin Wuhrmann for paying the rent on ASCA storage (and putting up with me!).

Paul Rasmussen for giving the ASCA many years of free storage and office space!

Em Holland for running the current Bishop "office" - forwarding mail to my various addresses!

Jason Ogasian for taking over web stuff, he's working on changing the (badly outdated) replacement lists so rebolters can update their work.

And a big hats off to the Planet Granite folks who conceived, planned, marketed, ran, and basically did nearly everything for the 3 big fundraisers - and of course to the awesome speakers - Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, and Chris Sharma - who drew in the big crowds!

But as always, the folks out working hard to replace bolts, manky anchors, webbing, etc deserve the most credit!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 2, 2014 - 08:06pm PT

upper right hand corner "Make a Donation"

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 2, 2014 - 09:50pm PT
But Dave, some of us LIKE 20th century methods.

Gym climber
Oct 2, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
What happened to the free T-shirt with a donation?
I hate to sound petty, but one reason I've donated in the past it to get the shirt and thereby increase my "street cred" at the climbing gym and around town in Boulder.
I wish I were joking, but I'm (mostly) serious.
I'll likely make a donation in any event, but my old shirt is getting a little threadbare, and you could certainly help the cause with that free shirt or some other schwag that both (1) identifies us as "insiders," and (2) perhaps more importantly, gives ASCA some free advertising.
(In case this post ins't well received, let me say I've donated hundreds (or at least over 100, can're really remember) to the ASCA in the past and am very appreciative of the work it does; some guy named Kevin Stricker replaced crap loads of bolts on great routes that were either museum pieces or death traps, depending on the way you look at it.)
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 06:06am PT
blahblah, very few people have been interested in T-shirts (maybe 5-8 people a year?), and even at fundraising events few people wanted them. We could make more.

khanom, it depends on the particular bolt (bigger is more expensive), the hanger (if mechanical), the glue (if glue-in). Anchor hardware (such as double-ring hangers, or two quicklinks plus rings) jacks the price way up per bolt. A minimum of around $6 to a max per bolt of a bit under $20 - and that's bulk costs. Anchors are the most expensive by far - a single anchor in Yosemite (i.e. with the least expensive bolts - short 3/8" that you hand drill) is around $30 in just hardware costs.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 3, 2014 - 06:09am PT
Last time I donated they were out of T Shirts and I believe they don't have any intention of restocking.

Oct 3, 2014 - 07:10am PT
If you shop on Amazon, you can add the ASCA as your Amazon Smile donation recipient.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Oct 3, 2014 - 08:12am PT
Do the hangers if in good shape get reused?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oct 3, 2014 - 08:55am PT
I would rather see the money go towards bolts, forget the shirts. Easy click and pay with Paypal.
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 09:17am PT
I'm all for T-shirts, I like seeing them at the crag (or at the gym!), it's just that we literally couldn't give them away…made me wonder if we should have beanies instead!

khanom, that's strange, I usually get a donation acknowledgement out. Looks like I blew it - sorry.

Yes we could spend time & money on mailings, and I'm sure anyone else in the non-profit world would just shake their head in dismay at not maintaining and using a mailing list. I really don't have the time, we don't have the budget to hire anyone, and we certainly don't have the budget to place advertisements in climbing magazines! That's not to say that we shouldn't do mailings - I'm sure we should. Years back we came up with a basic (outdoor) bolt safety awareness flyer that we wanted to print and distribute to gyms all over, but we didn't have the money to print it. Really basic stuff that a lot of newer climbers don't realize - many new climbers literally think that the government puts in bolts and maintains them and they are guaranteed never to break.

Oct 3, 2014 - 09:54am PT
Greg, this is just my personal experience: I would have donated again or even annually back when I had a real job but my first donation (which was fairly large) got no acknowledgement at all (kinda wanted the T-shirt too). This was several years ago, but at the time it made me wonder where my money was going, how it was being used, etc.

Same thing for me last year, but hell, I know Greg & Co. are working hard and getting the important shizz done. If a t-shirt floats my way, cool. If not, I'm not going to hold a grudge. I look at it this way:

New, shiny bolt and a old, manky t-shirt?
Old, manky bolt and a shiny, new t-shirt?

That is the question.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 3, 2014 - 10:12am PT
I also got no acknowledgement with my last donation and thought perhaps they didn't receive it. I reached out to Greg who tracked it down and thanked me. I'm sure if communication was better the donations would increase. No matter how small the donation is, you should get a thank you email.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 3, 2014 - 10:14am PT
The best way to put your mind at ease that your money is going to the right place....

Have Greg send you some hardware, and start doing some replacement.


Trad climber
Oct 3, 2014 - 10:21am PT
Just donated. Thank you for all you do!

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 3, 2014 - 10:57am PT
How many people ask for hardware and don't follow through? Or worse, don't do it properly?

When I started out as a rebolter for ASCA, I had a email interview with Greg.

He asked what my experience was, what routes I intended to replace, and what my "goals" were for the near future.

After replacement, you send in your finished routes with notes that are then added to the database.

Do you think ASCA is sending out hangers to people who never replace? Thus sitting idle with hardware that was purchased with your donation money?

There are not that many volunteers rebolting, much less than there should be.

I have run into routes that were modern and had ASCA hardware....but all of those in the rebolting arena know who those FA'st are, what they did and what steps were done to mitigate that type of theft.

No need to name names.

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 3, 2014 - 11:04am PT

No matter how small the donation is, you should get a thank you email.

In theory I agree. In realty we're dealing with a tiny non-profit with limited resources (and those "resources" have actual lives - God forbid). Maybe ASCA's volunteer base needs expanding?

Maybe ASCA could use another volunteer to catalog donations and make sure thank-yous go out? Do you have the time for that John Mac?

Gym climber
Oct 3, 2014 - 11:07am PT
OK I got my donation in.
I'm sure this is the type of situation where things aren't done perfectly or to everyone's satisfaction, but I've been very happy with what I've seen in the field (mostly in S. Platte). Perhaps those of us who don't have money can donate time/effort if we enjoy doing the type of routes that are ASCA's focus; most everyone can make some sort of contribution (and the few who can't probably have bigger problems to worry about).

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 11:12am PT
Fund Raising Idea:

I have suggested many times that some of those "museum pieces" can be sold to me and the proceeds from that can be put back into ASCA's rebolting efforts.

Let me know...

Trad climber
Oct 3, 2014 - 11:46am PT
Thanks for all your work, Greg!

I don't know much about websites, but it seems like an e-mail thank you could be automated? And an e-mail database maintained with the e-mail addresses of all the donaters, to facilitate the occasional mass e-mail blast?

Anyone with webskillz want to help Greg out?

or maybe that's more complicated than I think...
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 3, 2014 - 11:50am PT
"In theory I agree. In realty we're dealing with a tiny non-profit with limited resources (and those "resources" have actual lives - God forbid). Maybe ASCA's volunteer base needs expanding?

Maybe ASCA could use another volunteer to catalog donations and make sure thank-yous go out? Do you have the time for that John Mac?"

I don't have the time as I already spend a lot of time volunteering for mountainproject. I'm sure this could be automated via the website.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 3, 2014 - 01:35pm PT

Those who approached you, were they replacing for ASCA?

Did they in fact replace all of your 500 bolts with ASCA hardware?

This would be, in my opinion, exactly the type of people the ASCA does not want to have on the volunteer list.

I have never replaced bolts where I could have reused the hanger. However, I am not replacing sport routes, or modern routes with carbon steel hardware.

Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
Hi Mike,

We generally do reuse hangers if they are stainless steel and in good shape (or plated steel in the few dry desert porous rock areas where plated steel bolts are sometimes still used). We do try to re-use holes, although the techniques for re-using 3/8" holes are still in their infancy.

Years ago we stopped using stud (wedge) type bolts because they are not removable. We use 5-piece bolts where the hole can - with some work - usually be reused. Of course glue-ins are a different matter, but barring rock fall or other damage most will not need to be replaced for an extremely long time period (by which point core drilling the old hole should be more likely).

As far as old bolt hangers, I do not think many people share your opinion about returning hangers to the first ascent team. The bolts were left permanently, and if those replacing the bolts use newer hangers (or no hangers at all in the case of glue-ins), it just seems weird to return them to someone who never intended to get them back. I re-use hangers I remove regularly - particularly 5/16" hole stainless SMC hangers (for use with new 1/4" buttonheads). It never even crossed my mind to try to return those hangers to people who left them in the rock 25 years prior - if anything those people should be replacing the bolts themselves (and a fair number of folks do replace their own routes, huge thanks!). The amount of work required to replace the bolts is so high that re-using the hangers is not inappropriate in the case where anyone would want to re-use the hanger. Of course if someone just goes and steals hangers off climbs leaving the hangerless bolts behind, that would be a different matter!

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 3, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
Thanks for the volunteer work you do John Mac - everyone should give back and it sounds like you absolutely do.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 3, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
If the hanger is so bad that they need to use ASCA money to replace the hanger why would you then put them on another route. Seems a little shady.

Here you go Mike:

If the unit was bad enough to replace, both hanger and bolt, hanger does not get used.

If the bolt is bad, or spinning, but the hanger is in fine shape, then you reuse it if it is SS, and sized appropriately for the ASCA bolt being placed.

The comment about how much work it is to put them in outweighing the effort to replace? You have not done enough rebolting.

How about "Hours" for removal of one bolt? Then Hand drilling to place the new fat SS rig.

"Shady" might not be the right verbiage as you are obviously not aware of ASCA's effort to MINIMIZE the cost of replacement. I.E. using a perfectly good hanger that was removed from a spinning/destroyed bolt placement.

Nobody is popping out brand new hardware, and replacing it with ASCA gear.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 3, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
Greg, please elaborate on using old hardware taken off routes because it was bad and the using it on new routes. Do you then immediately hit up the ASCA to replace that route. Seems like a waste of the ASCA's resources to do this. if it is public property left by the fa it is not yours to use as you see fit. Replace it if it needs it, but then don't use it for your purposes because you are only replacing it if it is bad hardware. Bad policy

I reuse much of the 1/4" and 5/16ths hangers I remove for ASCA replacement.

I hand drill routes with 1/4 bolts and use the hangers I pulled off the crusty routes. Then I go back and replace them with MY NEW PERSONAL HARDWARE.

It is my choice to use what I remove and considered bad for the masses. Most would not complain about not having to clip a 1/4" bolt with old hanger? Maybe you would?

I would never go out of my way to give back any of the hardware I remove for the ASCA unless the owner wanted it back.

Sounds like you are missing the whole picture?

Edit for clarity.


Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
Mike M,
I will try to answer you concerns. Most, if not all of the re-bolters doing the bulk of the replacement in TM and Yosemite are volunteers in the most basic sense: They are few, they are not affiliated (including the ASCA) and give UNCONDITONALLY (no pay, no t-shirts, not NOTHING) of their time. I have replaced quite a few routes in TM and all the bolts have been old crap; not a single piece of gear have I replaced been re-usable in any form. If it is a good anchor, I leave it but I focus on the worst and hardest to access.

Anything I've kept is junk but may be sentimental in that it has history (the bolt I just replaced on the Eunuch in TM placed by Bob Kamps for instance)and if the FA wanted the gear, I'd gladly give it to them if convenient.

As to the work involved. I have placed many 1/4" and 3/8" bolts. It takes much longer to pull and replace then place a new bolt. A 1/4" on lead takes 3 to 5 mins on average but much longer to replace and 5/16' and up button heads are a real pain in the ass.

And I agree with what other posters have said. If you clip a bolt with the ASCA stamp on it, that should be more then enough thanks especially to those who have never donated to the cause.


Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
Using the best hardware avoids controversy.

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
I don't know of anyone using old gear and REPLACING another route with that gear. I didn't even THINK to do such a thing but now that you mention it...........

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
Mike M....The ASCA has done far more good then what appears to be a minority complaint. What if the ASCA had NO funding? Would it then be OK to try and mix and match to try to make more climbs safe? Do you think they replace other routes with old gear for their own personal benefit? Greg Barnes is one of the nicest most honest cats on the planet. He's worked his ass off more then anyone in terms of trying to make it safe for all of us including you. Roger Brown and all the folks who give selflessly would not be able to make it safe for all of us if it weren't for Greg's efforts.
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
Mike, I don't know who replaced your stuff in the Black Hills, and as far as I know it's not ASCA gear, but I don't know for sure.

That being said, the vast majority of "early U.S. sport routes" are perfectly fine stainless hangers with old, rusting bolts. Generally speaking when we run into these, we re-use the hanger on the same placement. You typically know that ahead of time and you'd just bring fewer new hangers - saves weight in your pack too.

However, if the new bolt is for instance a 1/2" bolt with a 1/2" hole hanger, or a glue-in bolt, or even a similar new stainless hanger that is factory camouflaged instead of non-camouflaged, the old hanger that is removed is now the rebolter's to deal with. Whether it goes to a climbing museum, straight to the recycling/trash bin, or to a rebolter's own new route is no one's business but the people who remove the bolt. Obviously in particularly significant cases, there is interest in the climbing community to preserve the bolt, so hopefully they don't just get tossed.

There is nothing wrong with re-using old bomber stainless hangers that are in good shape, and there is nothing wrong with using them for personal routes if they don't get used in replacement.

I realize that in your case it sounds like bolts you considered fine were replaced which annoyed you, but perhaps the rebolters were just being thorough since some bolts were super rusted and others were not too rusted. Maybe they thought that while they were there they might as well upgrade everything to stainless.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 3, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
Reusing old 1/4"/5/16ths hardware garnered from replacement, to establish a route ground up with 1/4 drilling is very common.

Then after the route is finished, the replacement effort includes removing the OLD hangers and new 1/4" bolts and replacing them with 3/8th hardware purchase for personal use.

Nobody is doing the routes in between, it is all one process.

No "modern" hardware is used from a rebolting effort.

Are we talking about the same usage of hardware? Or are you inferring that modern 3/8ths hangers are then placed on personal FA's?

Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Oct 3, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
few things make me more content than finally making it to that bolt and reading ASCA on that gleaming stainless wonder.
Donation on the way man
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
Generally with late '80s-early '90s sport routes, it's the bolts that are bad, not the hangers. And I think most people out replacing just re-use the (perfectly fine) original hanger. There are exceptions, but mostly not.

And to be clear, yes those thick 5/16" hole stainless SMCs get re-purposed to hangers for new 1/4" buttonheads, which people then replace - sometimes the same day - with their OWN new bolts & hangers, not ASCA! It's just that it's hard to find good hangers for new 1/4" bolts, and hand drilling 3/8" from stance is a pain (not that it stops some people from doing exactly that even on super hard, desperate routes!).

Mike, it sounds like the locals up your way respected your opinion and didn't go out and replace all your bolts - it's really good of them to check with you first. Hopefully over the next few years, before your bolts do need replacement, rebolters will perfect replacement of 3/8" bolts in the same hole. I'm heading out tomorrow with some folks who've been working on cool innovative ways of doing exactly that, hopefully I'll learn something (and I'm crossing fingers that I can figure out ways of adapting some of these power-drill-intensive methods to hand drilling areas…that might be pretty tough).
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Oct 3, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
Thanks for all you do, Greg and all the volunteers! I just made a contribution. No need for a t-shirt or thank you--I know it's the right thing to do. I'd much rather see a new bolt than one of those sketchball open cold shuts that were popular for too long. Carry on!
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2014 - 07:01pm PT
Weird, I've never heard of that sort of thing, replacing good bolts with worse quality gear? Of course in most of my replacement, a 3/8" no matter how rusted is so much better than the nasty spinning 1/4" bolts with Leepers that we didn't mess with the 3/8"!

I'm hopeful that your bolts will be replaced in the same hole in the future. Check out the following:

Jim Taylor at the New River Gorge has done some great work with core drilling 3/8" bolts out. Google "Jim Taylor bolt replacement" for some videos.

Take a look at some of Greg German's innovative replacement methods - just google "Greg German bolt replacement" - he's got some cool tricks which he has on videos.

There's also the "blunt force" core drilling method which doesn't require any specialized equipment beyond glue-in familiarity (it does require a power drill legal area) - drill a bunch of holes around the bolt with the smallest size SDS bit, pull the bolt with vice grips, then expand the hole to 5/8" and use a fat glue-in (requires glue rated for oversized holes unless you use a huge Petzl Bat'inox glue-in). Here are some photos of this method from this May at Courtright Reservoir (in the Sierra south of Yosemite). Also it may not work in very soft rock since the 5/32" bits may track out into the rock.

So Mike, hopefully your bolts will be replaced in the same exact hole sometime in the future!

Trad climber
Oct 4, 2014 - 07:34am PT
bump for helping keep climbers safe

Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 4, 2014 - 07:48am PT
Donation sent. Thanks to ASCA for all they have done. Getting rid of the scary ass hardware out there is reward enough.

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 4, 2014 - 09:49am PT
a donor must have a bank record or written communication from a charity for any monetary contribution before the donor can claim a charitable contribution on his/her federal income tax return

The above was taken from the IRS guidelines for nonprofit reporting.
For all the years I made donations by check I always received a letter from ASCA with your tax id number on it. Over the past 3-4 years I have made the annual donation through paypal and there is never a document from ASCA. The paypal receipt names ASCA but has no information on the non-profit ID. I'm not sure if the IRS considers a paypal receipt a "bank record".

The purpose of the acknowledgment from ASCA is not to get one's ego stroked, but for us at the intersection of compulsively organized and previously-audited by the IRS (venn diagram needed).

Perhaps this can be accomplished by just incorporating the ASCA tax ID into the part that prints from Paypal.
Regards, Phyl
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2014 - 07:04pm PT
ASCA tax ID# is 68-0419449

I need to figure out why those responses aren't going out, Chris was handling them and I didn't realize responses aren't going out to paypal donations.

We try to get responses out to everyone. Technically speaking, I think the IRS regulations state that donors are required to have a receipt for donations of $250 or more.

Trad climber
Oct 7, 2014 - 08:33am PT
bump for climbing and for safety.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Oct 7, 2014 - 09:35am PT

although the techniques for re-using 3/8" holes are still in their infancy.

I do not see where the problem is in reusing the 3/8" empty hole but achieving its vacancy when there is a 3/8" wedge bolt occupying the hole.

Drill the stainless steel out with a cobalt bit?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 7, 2014 - 11:27am PT
I was wondering if I can go out and learn how to replace old bolts with someone? I would love to re-place some of the old bolts in SEKI with own money and on own time. Even though I know how to place bolts, I don't know how to remove old ones properly, re-use holes etc. Is it possible to follow someone at some point when they are replacing?

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 7, 2014 - 05:34pm PT
$100.00 Done.
Thanks for all your hard work, much appreciated!
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Oct 8, 2014 - 08:41am PT
The Tollhouse Faceoff coming up on October 25, east of Fresno, has donated all proceeds to ASCA the last few years. I think we raised $1,000 for ASCA last year. Come by this year, have some fun and help support ASCA.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 14, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
This just in, Planet Granite is matching all ASCA donations up to $20K till the end of November. more details to come soon. Thank you PG and if you are thinking of making a donation, NOW is the time to do it as it will be doubled. I'll be starting an online auctions and donating all the proceeds from staying at my tahoe home until December 1. Here are the links to the houses. Perfect Tahoe climbing weather these days!!

And below is a photo i took this afternoon from this house. Only 20/30 minutes from the Leap

>>Make a Donation through PayPal Here of go to and click on "make a donation" in the upper right corner.
Greg Barnes

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
The awesome team at Planet Granite climbing gyms will match up to $20,000 in donations to the ASCA from anyone nationwide for October and November! This includes everyone who responded to our earlier donation request, so we are already 1/4 of the way there!

The ASCA is a 501(c)3 organization, so donations are (typically) tax deductible. Please donate now and see your donation matched by Planet Granite!

Planet Granite has gyms in San Francisco, Sunnyvale, Belmont, and opening in a few weeks in Portland, Oregon! This is the 4th year that Planet Granite has helped raise the bulk of ASCA's annual budget. Please support them if you can - see for more.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 14, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
worthy bump

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 14, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
V, have you seen this MP forum on stud bolt replacement?
Buttonheads are a real bitch. Best method could be a hacksaw blade behind the head, but reusing the hole is questionable. A good discussion on that can be found here on ST.

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2014 - 10:42pm PT

the upcoming Pinnacles National Monument(er, uh, Park) rebolting season is just about to get underway. Clint and I will let you know when our next outing is scheduled and you can tag along. Bring a headlamp. Sunset doesn't mean that the work stops.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 31, 2014 - 11:05am PT
Another way to help ASCA below:

Alex Honnold at PG Nov 19 and ASCA auction items needed

Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 24, 2015 - 07:01am PT
Bump for the ASCA.

In light of the recent bolt failure, I'm sure Greg has a new laundry list of hardware that desperately needs replacing.

Stay safe people. Pony up, new bolts don't grow on trees (unfortunately).;)

upper right hand corner "Make a Donation"
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