Best way to start Virginia?

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
BrandonAdams

Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
Anyone have any experience with the Virginia start? Any advice on whether to do the first pitch of lost in america and traverse over instead?

I see that Neil Chelton is currently on the route. Any one know which start they used?

Thanks.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 29, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
Clance said to lead the first pitch.

Burt

Social climber
Angelus Oaks, Ca
Sep 29, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
From the ground preferably
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 29, 2014 - 11:38pm PT
Chim-Chim for the win, with a somewhat defensible PG interpretation.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Sep 30, 2014 - 07:33am PT
bump
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 30, 2014 - 07:50am PT
respectfully. learn a little history.
Barbarian

climber
Sep 30, 2014 - 08:39am PT
Chim Chim has step 2 nailed. I'm going to step 1. Buy her dinner.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 30, 2014 - 08:55am PT
There is a V4 sit start to an A3 hook move.....classic, but rarely done these days.
Rocky IV

Social climber
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:31am PT
scramble up 40 feet to a bush, to the right of which is a rivet ladder, maybe 2 or 3. That's the start. once you find that the rest of the pitch should be fairly obvious.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:32am PT
Buy her dinner.
Easy there tiger. Maybe take her to coffee first.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:35am PT
The start is fairly obvious. As I recall it begins with some thin nailing in expanding features interspersed with some hooking. Nothing too bad, but a bit heads up 'cause you're close to the deck. You traverse left at the top of P1 and belay at the base of an aesthetic seam/thin crack. This feature takes great peckers (ha,ha) mixed with other small gear. Fun climbing (for aid).
BrandonAdams

Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
Thanks for the tips on how to treat a lady right. I do my best, but advice is always appreciated.

Well, sounds like the direct and true start to Virginia is the way to go.

If anybody else has any other first hand advice or beta (on the route in particular), feel free to keep contributing. Thanks again.
Barbarian

climber
Sep 30, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
Maybe take her to coffee first.

Perhaps maybe I just tell her she's pretty and see how it goes from there?
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Sep 30, 2014 - 03:53pm PT
Definitely do the Virginia start, it's very steep and fun.I remember my aiders were blowing around in the wind quite a bit. It's no harder than A2.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 30, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
I did the LIA p1 start when we used Virginia to approach the Trip.

I took a nasty header out of the A3+ heads section just before the rivet. Ripped the heads and a blue/green alien is the only thing that saved me from a headfirst plunge into the talus.

Heads up there...

I went back up and put in solid beaks instead.
Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
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