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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2014 - 09:21am PT
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How much weight should I expect this hanger to hold???
There's an old 1/4" bolt-ladder on a big boulder nearby, my friend and I went up there the other night, bailed at the third bolt (after a 1/4" drilled hook move). We went back the next night and our nut and draw that we lowered off of was still hanging at our previous high point.
I had purchased 2 Moses 3/8" Rivet Hangers and one of those Camp Wire Rivet Hangers. I told my friend that I wasn't sure that I would trust the Camp to hold a fall, he thought it would be fine.
So my friend heads up the 1/4" bolt ladder, gets to the high point and puts the Camp Wire Hanger on the bolt in front of the nut that was already on there.
He says "I wanted to take that nut off."
I say "it's probably a good idea to keep it on there and leave it clipped in."
He then has a hard time finding the next drilled hole to hook, puts a draw on as a fifi and starts to high step and leans left, leans right tries to hook an arete with no success.
Then pop he's hanging 2 feet below the bolt off of the "backup" nut that was already on there. The Camp Rivet Hanger had broken. If he had removed the wired nut he would have taken at least a 15 foot fall to the ground. I lower him down and inspect the Wire Rivet Hanger, it was the little end crimp that had popped off.
We decide that the pitch is a lil' too exciting to try and lead, so we go up the other side of the boulder so we can set up a TR, which allowed us to rap the route to discover that 2 of the upper 1/4 in bolts are broken off at the threads, and this is above another drilled hook move. This "route" is at least 10 degrees over hanging.
We set up a TR on the route and would not be brave enough to lead it in the future, unless a solid bolt was placed somewhere in the upper part of the route.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Sep 29, 2014 - 09:34am PT
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bolt it up dude!
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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Also My friend that broke it weighs 150!
I weigh 195#-naked. . .
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 29, 2014 - 09:36am PT
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Heh I replied before reading it all. I figured body weight only. Guess I was wrong.
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2014 - 09:54am PT
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I don't know why Wilson's sells these things instead of the Moses wire hangers, which may also be rated for body weight, but look a whole lot more bomber. Not really sure why the Camp one costs $9. . .
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 29, 2014 - 10:09am PT
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'Camp' is Italian for 'lite'.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Sep 29, 2014 - 10:27am PT
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Yea man don't hurt yourself on Manmade funkyness!
Another words don't make a rivit ladder A4 and be proud of it.
Years ago when I did Desert Shield in Zion, I had to hook a bunch of broken rivits. Turned out to be the hardest moves on the rte. Thats queer in my book.
Round cable will easily slide off a round rivit. If there is enough sticking out one can with a hammer bend them up. But leaving on the bolt is the best thing you can do.
Have you tried the Washer rivit hanger? It's a sharpened washer that is slung. They will bite I and be held in place with just one thread showing.
Sounds like the best idea would be to pound in the rivit with ur hammer, take some epoxy and rock dust and hide the old hole and put in a new bomber bolt next to it!
Happy Hammering!
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Oct 31, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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Another words don't make a rivit ladder A4 and be proud of it.
you callin out anyone in particular for recent routes on the cracked bell formation?
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 31, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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On the first pitch of the Zodiac the first bolt before the start of the right facing corner the nut was missing.
the German climber put a tie-off on it then clipped a fixed head on his next placement.
The head blew and the tie-off slid off the bolt stud because the nut was missing.
He angered into the ground, broke both ankles and did a face forward face plant into a boulder knocking his teeth out.
A cable would have slipped off too, so keep the nuts on the bolt studs!!!!
I found his teeth and stuck them back in his mouth.
They said the dentist can use them to stick back in their original place?
Ho mannn .......
Also that cable in the photo sucks.
It's not built right.
It should be double swagged when using that small gauge steel wire.
And make damn sure your crimp is calibrated otherwise the cable can slip right out of the swage.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Oct 31, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Just take a wire stopper and slide the nut back. If it's a small one you can slide the nut back up like a cinch to help prevent it from popping off.
That wire thing in the OP looks like body weight only, not to take any kind of a lead fall.
Sounds like you should just TR the route as stated. Rebolt it to modern standards if it's worth the effort.
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