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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The Open Book (my first 5.9 lead) and O'Kelly's Crack are two of my favorite climbs. Haven't done Flower of High Rank.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Gnome- yes that is p2 of Struttin. But it's not flipped. That's right where the route starts to slab out! ;)
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Indeed Randisi, The Entrance Exam!
And so very many more.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2016 - 11:25pm PT
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Always good,
Horseman, (5.5) climbs up to & through the big corner
Here's mud in yer eye!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 12:04am PT
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great bump, wish to climb in the 'Gunks again... who knows...
never did Balrog nor Junior
but the first time on Dirty Gerdy was in Sept. 1984
Frog's Head 1982, Maria and City Lights 1983
that was 35 years ago, so much more to do...
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jul 13, 2016 - 06:57am PT
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I hate Balrog. It looks so doable until I get close; then it turns into a nightmare for me.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
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repeated climbs (more than 10 ascents)
After Six (mostly solos)
Bishop's Terrace
Nutcracker
Generator Crack
Munginella
Pot Belly
South Crack
Eunich
Hermaphrodite Flake
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 14, 2016 - 06:10am PT
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Haven't been at this that long, but with Patty,
Walk on the Wild Side
Fingertrip
El Whampo
With Mark (my first Mentor), getting on Whodunit is a regular thing.
Too many things I HAVEN'T done.....
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 14, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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In Boulder Canyon - The Owl on the Dome, Empor and Huston on Cob Rock
In Taylor Canyon, Gunnison - Left Hand, and Dunn's Dihedral
These are all pretty weak sauce for most people here.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Jul 14, 2016 - 11:46am PT
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Country Club Crack, Castle Rock
Climbed it every day for over a month one year.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 14, 2016 - 11:50am PT
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Gnome mentioned Loose lips in JT. You know the whole thing under the horizontal crack fell off some time ago. Before that happened i recall watching Coz solo that thing in a big down jacket on a blustery winter afternoon.
When I started climbing at The Gunks we'd TR Dirtie Gerdie from time to time. More recently I was back there, and as Barbara and I walked past it I decided I wanted to lead it. This was about ten years ago. As I flaked my rope out and grabbed a couple thin tcu's some of the young buff boulderers there and other folks turned to watch. I thought to myself "what's up, some old guy is gonna lead 5.8". It seemed kind of dicey for 5.8.
When I was back down some dude walked by me and said under his breath so as not to be heard by the others, "nice lead".
Horseman has a special place in my heart. On my first day climbing my mentor led us up Three Pines. Our descent brought us down at the Uberfall. He informed me that it was my turn to lead, and that Horseman would be a good choice. Taking him at his word, up I went.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jul 14, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Though I'm trying not to do repeats these days, I have found myself repeatedly on Left Crack, Park Lane, NW Buttress, and Daytrippin (all in the Selenites) with a host of first timers to the area. Used to have a little day circuit, up to 4500', I repeatedly soloed at The Leap in the 70's. Ah, but that was ages ago when the physical body felt light and without use wear.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jul 14, 2016 - 12:20pm PT
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Bonnie's Roof Direct (i.e. no P3 bailout to the left... straight up).
Fantastic pro and swinging on P3 with 60m of air below.... so cool...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 14, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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I suppose the routes I've repeated the most times could be
Tahquitz: Daves Deviation P1.
Suicide: Flower of High Rank or Etude.
Needles: Igor Unchained, Spook Book, Howling.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Jul 14, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
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Conway Summit....Watched Don O'Kelly climb O'Kelly crack....Have some slides somewhere...?
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