The leader must not fall- most pieces you've ripped?

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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
It's raining here and somewhat gloomy, so tell me about when you heard the "TING"!??

Hadn't heard it forever luckily, then heard it yesterday 3 times! Aggghhhh!

Sure is a sinking feeling when you fall & then fall again right away. Amazing how much can go thru your mind in a short time.

Sadly I tied my record, except this time I ended up dangling in space 30' from my 00 C3 with a nice soft catch and last time I ended up in a tiny pile of snow at the bottom of the crag from 30' up. Fortunately these are the only 2 times I have had my gear rip despite at least a hundred plus whippers on gear climbs in my time.


Time to go sportclimbing for a bit since I obviously don't know wtf I am doing :-)


Speaking of, has anyone ever unclipped a biner in a fall thru back clipping or rotation of a runner unclipping from the bolt?





Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
It's funny, as I get older a lot of climbing memories tend to blend. Not falls. I remember most of them fairly vividly. Especially those long aid falls where things make noise as the pop out. Yikes!

I'm getting jiggy just thinking about it. I need a toke now.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Just 1, a nut I placed blindly and then tested. Solo aid leading. And just enough extra fall to hit the ground, somewhat. I would like to keep it that way for a while, fortunately my gear seems to hold when I fall on it, which isn't the most often.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
2.5 on some bullshit 5.8 at the Cathouse in Josh. Climbed up on bad pro, downclimbed and foot slipped. the ".5" was a nut that replaced itself a few inches lower and kept me from taking a 30 footer.

Goddamn dummy domes.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
3 pieces. I was on a crappy purple TCU in oozing muck that popped as I was leaning over to inspect the next placement options. I ripped 2 nuts below that. I was nervous about running out of small cams so I had hung on a marginal nut to get the TCU, and had back cleaned the cam before that and put a nut in its place. Dumb. A medium offset brass HB caught me, and when I jugged back up to it the rock was holding the gate of the biner open. I was not in my happy place.

I popped 2 pieces several times in aid falls.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:49pm PT
Two....aiding on first pitch of the FA of The Bourbon Bottle route on Mt. Brsdley, Alaska Range. I would advise against anyone jumping on it.
Free climbing I have pulled a single piece on a couple of occasions...never two.

Raining here....but, come to think of it, I'm in Squamish too.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
What was it that you were on when that happened?

I've only had one piece rip so far, a blue WC Zero on the roof pitch of Freeway. I was just below the anchor and was stepping one foot up when the other one blew. All of a sudden, metal is flying at my face, and I'm swinging in towards Brownie at the belay, ~25 feet below, ~600 feet up.

That got the heart going a bit.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
Hey what's up Jim? Hope u guys got a few climbs in before this.

I'd like to say it's not always like this here but...........

If you are super keen and do not have the dry rock beta give me a shout. There's some sportclimbing that stays dry in the rain not too far away.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
Sep 23, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
Either 2 or 3, I can't remember, on the Good Book, which is now damaged by rockfall. I was laybacking a couple of pitches up and my hand popped out, did a back dive and saw the pieces pull in between my feet as I was looking up. Not injured at all but did remind me that you cant just stuff tcu's into a crack and expect them to hold a fall.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Sep 23, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
Perhaps 20 pieces in a row- I really can only guess. Perhaps a 100ft. fall, as I zippered the entire pitch. Certainly one of my close calls.

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1114340/2nd-ascent-of-the-prow-solo
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 23, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
I've had 4-5 pieces rip up on El Cap a couple of times. Gives you some time to think about it, that's for sure!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Sep 23, 2014 - 02:53pm PT
^^^

That would be one I'd like to see the stuntmen at Camp 4 Collective recreate A good multi-angle video of a 100+ ft, 20+ piece zipper fall. That would tell the tale.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
Sep 23, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
Missionary's Crack pitch #5 on Yam. Pulled 4 stoppers a #6 held just before loading the questionable belay stance. Ended up 15' past the belayer with some nice rock & rope abrasions.(took about a fifty footer)

Stevo
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Sep 23, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
2. Fell just a mere moment before grabbing the thank god black knob on The Pirate at Suicide. Pulled my top piece up and out with me. Ripped all the brass off both sides of an RP then hit the ground and my rope settled gently on the last piece. Nasty big toe tendon tear and a ruined shoe were most of the damage.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Sep 23, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
3 or 4 but there were 3 or 4 hook placements in between as well, overall I took about 60 footer with rope stretch and almost hit a ledge. Yikes
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 23, 2014 - 03:48pm PT
Pretty early on in my climbing, I think I had 2 or 3 placements pop when I wasn't that high off the ground... ended up falling from about 35-40 feet up and stopping about level with my belayer standing on the ground.

Another time had one placement hold but the rope came unclipped, and the last piece was far enough down that I was lucky to live through the experience.

Never zippered a ton of pieces though.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Sep 23, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
Fun topic! Only 3 pieces for me so far (and only one at time). I can tell you one thing - you sure drop quickly down to the last piece!

1. Decked setting a nut in a pin scar - thankfully only 10-12 ft off the ground and a nice sandy landing. I don't set those nuts so aggressively anymore.

2. Small piece (BD .3) pulled out of a lava pocket when I was hang dogging on it - dropped to a bolt about 10 ft down - thankfully a clean fall - belayer was surprised when he was un-weighted, then hit again!

3. The classic aid Noob move - bounce testing a small cam in a crack I thought was bomber - came right out and hit me between the eyes!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 23, 2014 - 04:07pm PT
I witnessed steveA's zipper on the Prow....quite an impressive show!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Sep 23, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
I love ripping a piece that I was 88.3% sure was good. It's funny that the overriding emotion upon ripping such a piece isn't fear but genuine puzzlement: "huh, that piece blew? well, that's a bit of a surprise"

but ripping a piece that was suspect at the outset is skerry
knucko

climber
Sep 23, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
Ripped some pieces while aid climbing. Never zippered anything.

Had one piece rip while free climbing. Travellers Buttress, #5 Camalots make a loud harmonic noise when they pull out!!! The nut I placed before it gets wide kept me just a few feet off the ground. It was early in my climbing career and I almost quit climbing right then!!

My partner calmed me down and after a bit I went back up, and fell again. Expecting the same result as the first time I was surprised and happy to find that it held. Then we bailed to the bar for beer!!!

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