Shoe reviews.....?

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2014 - 11:45am PT

How can a radically downturned shoe that knuckles your toe and has a high toe profile get a 7 for crack climbing when a flat shoe with lower toe profile get's a 5?
Also, how can you grade comfort when fit is so dependent on foot shape which varies so much?
Shoe reviews seem inherently flawed because of the variables involved and the subjectivity of the tester regarding fit and performance.
Stick to tents and stoves.

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Sep 23, 2014 - 12:55pm PT

How many pads does it take you, Ron?

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Sep 23, 2014 - 01:06pm PT

one

Depends.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Sep 23, 2014 - 01:16pm PT

Was that scripted?!?

Lol!!!!

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Sep 23, 2014 - 01:17pm PT

Shoe ratings are all relative.

Some people raved about Acopa's because it was a shoe from JB. I ended up giving mine away after a painful day in Vedauwoo, couldn't wear them for more than five mins without excruciating pain.

5:10 Grandstone and Sportiva Kaululators are great shoes but never sold well and were discontinued. Now they are highly sought after.

I think once you figure out what brand works with your foot most of their lineup of shoes will suit you well.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Sep 23, 2014 - 01:18pm PT

Donini is channeling his inner Farouk, again.
Don't we have enough trouble-makers here?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 01:55pm PT

I guess I sounded a little harsh....sitting out the rain in Squamish.

My point is that performance gear like shoes where sizing and climbing style are all over the board are hard to evaluate objectively.

This thread will peasefully recede from the front page.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Sep 23, 2014 - 01:57pm PT

That's OK, Jim, we know you meant well.

skitch

climber

East of Heaven

Sep 23, 2014 - 02:58pm PT

I'm pretty sure that the gear review guys are only doing as a way to get more clicks & hopefully cash. If they were to do a real shoe review there would bd a lot more shoes to review!

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Sep 23, 2014 - 03:57pm PT

Sweet Jebus, THAT was FUNNY! I was expecting something informative, but that was a home run dood.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 04:25pm PT

Saw the list of the top five shoes. How can you possibly do that when shoes are designed for specific types of climbing? Overhanging sport, crack and slab climbing are totally different animals.
Try getting a TC Pro into a tight Red Camalot crack....might be good for general, multi pitch trad but for thin cracks....nope.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Sep 23, 2014 - 05:16pm PT

Try getting a TC Pro into a tight Red Camalot crack....might be good for general, multi pitch trad but for thin cracks....nope.

Doesn't seem to be slowing Tommy down.

BuddhaStalin

climber

Truckee, CA

Sep 23, 2014 - 05:20pm PT

and also, some appear downturned at first but flatten out, the miura lace does that a bit, as did the scarpa vapor lace, both of which I love for cracks, thin and slammer hands. But, I digress, the TC pro is hard to beat, even in a red camlaot crack.

Ive also not given the reviews here as much merit, even for softgoods and such. I like to look what people who are shredding are wearing. Damn shoemakers bring about so much crap, its hard to wade through.

That said,I know many katana faithfuls for crack climbing, lace and velcro, and they size them a bit looser. Not me, its tc's and moccasyms anymore. The GF has the new techno X and loves them, I tried them, but the fit doesnt suit me as much, otherwise felt perfect crack wise.