Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2014 - 11:45am PT
|
How can a radically downturned shoe that knuckles your toe and has a high toe profile get a 7 for crack climbing when a flat shoe with lower toe profile get's a 5?
Also, how can you grade comfort when fit is so dependent on foot shape which varies so much?
Shoe reviews seem inherently flawed because of the variables involved and the subjectivity of the tester regarding fit and performance.
Stick to tents and stoves.
|
|
The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
|
How many pads does it take you, Ron?
|
|
The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
|
one
Depends.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
|
Was that scripted?!?
Lol!!!!
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
|
Shoe ratings are all relative.
Some people raved about Acopa's because it was a shoe from JB. I ended up giving mine away after a painful day in Vedauwoo, couldn't wear them for more than five mins without excruciating pain.
5:10 Grandstone and Sportiva Kaululators are great shoes but never sold well and were discontinued. Now they are highly sought after.
I think once you figure out what brand works with your foot most of their lineup of shoes will suit you well.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
|
Donini is channeling his inner Farouk, again.
Don't we have enough trouble-makers here?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
|
I guess I sounded a little harsh....sitting out the rain in Squamish.
My point is that performance gear like shoes where sizing and climbing style are all over the board are hard to evaluate objectively.
This thread will peasefully recede from the front page.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
|
That's OK, Jim, we know you meant well.
|
|
skitch
climber
East of Heaven
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 02:58pm PT
|
I'm pretty sure that the gear review guys are only doing as a way to get more clicks & hopefully cash. If they were to do a real shoe review there would bd a lot more shoes to review!
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
|
Sweet Jebus, THAT was FUNNY! I was expecting something informative, but that was a home run dood.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
|
Saw the list of the top five shoes. How can you possibly do that when shoes are designed for specific types of climbing? Overhanging sport, crack and slab climbing are totally different animals.
Try getting a TC Pro into a tight Red Camalot crack....might be good for general, multi pitch trad but for thin cracks....nope.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
|
Try getting a TC Pro into a tight Red Camalot crack....might be good for general, multi pitch trad but for thin cracks....nope.
Doesn't seem to be slowing Tommy down.
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
|
and also, some appear downturned at first but flatten out, the miura lace does that a bit, as did the scarpa vapor lace, both of which I love for cracks, thin and slammer hands. But, I digress, the TC pro is hard to beat, even in a red camlaot crack.
Ive also not given the reviews here as much merit, even for softgoods and such. I like to look what people who are shredding are wearing. Damn shoemakers bring about so much crap, its hard to wade through.
That said,I know many katana faithfuls for crack climbing, lace and velcro, and they size them a bit looser. Not me, its tc's and moccasyms anymore. The GF has the new techno X and loves them, I tried them, but the fit doesnt suit me as much, otherwise felt perfect crack wise.
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
|
cranky septuagenarians taking jobs away from millennials, again
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 06:04pm PT
|
I got a size 40 TC pro into a 5.11 finger crack just last Friday :)
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
Sep 23, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
|
(Supertopo) Shoe reviews seem inherently flawed ... Stone him!
|
|
Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|