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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:33am PT
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Mentally vertigo when the magic is in you is sucking you ln, and up, fear is under control by the relentless clock that starts with a steep latch on the 1st hold and move very fast. The B /Y is huge in comparison and the fry ability and storied fails just relentless the second has to do the positve vibe shake dance a light rain of the dust that spindrifts and the winds swirl intimidating and long that is a whole other world although Kevin was a hero not of the same type of brain as the man JB Both gave us Classic high ball lines of incredible purity to pursue standing below both I think that Kevin would have and could have ...JB would have soloed that rig vertigo.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Sep 23, 2014 - 06:48am PT
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Totally savage. Nice send, Lonnie.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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In the late '70s, I walked under that wall and said, "The day somebody climbs that is the day I give up climbing."
So don't tell me somebody climbed that rig, I like to climb too much.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:37am PT
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can't wait till A1 bolt ladder up the thing..i would send..
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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The BY is just plain baddass and anyone that has the cool
to do it is baddass in my book.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:18am PT
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Sweet.
Somebody help me out this SAT-style question, because I can't think of anything. What is the equivalent in some other pursuit in life?
The Bachar-Yerian is to climbing as X is to Y?
What are X and Y? Any walk of life. I can't think of one that pulls all of the fascinating characteristics that are a part of the ground-up send of the B-Y. Risk, but also the years of technique and strength building (mental and physical) required to give it a go.
Maybe something like riding Mavericks on a monster day is to surfing? Risk, technique, strength, mental control all required. What else?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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What a beautiful route.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:26am PT
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Cheers to Lonnie. If you haven't seen it before here's a cool video of our own Gnome and Andrew Rock climbing the B&Y
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:55am PT
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Sweet.
Somebody help me out this SAT-style question, because I can't think of anything. What is the equivalent in some other pursuit in life?
The Bachar-Yerian is to climbing as X is to Y?
What are X and Y? Any walk of life. I can't think of one that pulls all of the fascinating characteristics that are a part of the ground-up send of the B-Y. Risk, but also the years of technique and strength building (mental and physical) required to give it a go.
Maybe something like riding Mavericks on a monster day is to surfing? Risk, technique, strength, mental control all required. What else?
As you already mentioned big wave surfing comes to mind. Certain lines in skiing and/or snowboarding may also qualify.
I can't relate to surfing as I've never done it. I have skied some very steep lines though. It's never been a relevant comparison for me because even if you drop a 55-60 degree chute it's over relatively quickly and you aren't thinking much, just reacting. On the BY you are presented with endless opportunities to consider each move and the looming consequence if you blow it.
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bpope
climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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more bachar/yerian stoke from a few years back, hayden kennedy and ivo ninov: http://vimeo.com/6102968
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
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When we were getting ready to climb it Waugh said that you needed to plan on spending 45 minutes to lead the second pitch. Think about holding just past vertical knobs for 45 minutes without a break...
In fact both Andrew and I both did the second pitch in that 45 minutes so we were well prepared.
The first pitch is the hardest but it is well protected at the crux. The 3rd pitch is also very run and then the fifth pitch has a 5.9 no-hands slab standup with your last protection about 50 feet below you. This surprised and scared both of us.
And if you didn't climb all 5 pitches you didn't do the B&Y!
And congrats Lonnie. I'm sure he cruised.
As an FYI, Andrew Rock spent a few sessions working on Peace, ground up, this summer. Did the whole thing but hasn't put the two halves together clean yet. I was so proud to see him with no stick clip and no top rope, just climbing!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Sep 23, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
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Is that the way he normally "climbs"
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Well since the climber has been identified, I will say his only hesitations were at the overhang/horizontal crack down low on the first pitch and right below the belay bolts first pitch at the short crack section. Second pitch went smooth, deliberate with authority....don't think it took him much time to put it away. The lighting was gorgeous....he only had 2 hours at best to finish the whole climb due to sunset. He started at 5:00 and was done with the second pitch at 6:15.
Peace
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 23, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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I will say his only hesitations were at the overhang/horizontal crack down low on the first pitch and right below the belay bolts first pitch at the short crack section.
The move at the flake/crack up high on the first pitch isn't that hard, but it is a bit awkward. Despite having climbed p1 a total of 7 times that move always gave me pause.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 23, 2014 - 01:25pm PT
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Is that the way he normally "climbs"
I do not think he even owns a stick..... to clip with.
Andrew normally "climbs" with no falls and a big desire to on-site everything.
hanging is not in his bag of tricks.
And to Mike a ...... what is the "hardest" climb in the Needles? (SD)
not to drift off topic but Im curious.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 23, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
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I think the hardest ground up effort in the Needles is in the 5.13(for sure quite a few 12+) range, but I think there are a few 5.14 sport routes spread throughout the Black Hills.
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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There was a BY thread a while ago on recent attempts and how many leads it has seen over the years. I'm curious if anyone knows if Ron Kauk did it back in the day?
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