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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 7, 2014 - 10:25am PT
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power, endurance, joints or desire? I feel that the old adage "climbing is 80% mental" applies here.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Joints? Did you say joints? Fire it up, Jimbo.
I would say joints go first, then you don't care about the others.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Maybe it's more like 100% mental Jim. Hope to run into you in Squamish soon.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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If you're a climber who only ever sport climbs or just a casual day cragger, then losing desire may not be a factor. Big wallers and alpinists often lose the desire for all the hard work and suffering, not to mention the biggest factor for many...commitment of the climbing.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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My joints (L. knee and R. Sacro-iliac) were injured over a year ago in a ranch accident, and after much time and $$$ spent on getting things fixed this past July, there is no shortage of desire. Since I've been working out in August, my power is still behind the normal curve, and my endurance is beginning to return. Add in a dose of improving technique, and I should become a decent partner on reasonable climbs again...soon.
Re: the mental aspect; the problem plaguing me is my total lack of confidence anymore. I just need to get out and climb a lot more, and that problem will solve itself.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Power goes first.
Then joints.
Then endurance.
I dunno about desire... still have plenty of that.
DMT
Ditto-ing what DMT said, at least for me.
Susan
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Am I the only one to bring up how thin-skinned one gets? And I don't mean it
in the figurative sense. I have to tape up from fingertip to elbow if I don't
want to look like an audition wannabe for Texas Chainsaw Massacre XIV. And,
yes, I have heard about that thing called 'technique', but at this point I am
resigned to just getting by on sheer obnoxiousness.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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In my case, and if I'm not too lazy (the 80% mental), I think this is it:
1. Some joint
2. Endurance
3. Power
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Locker, old buddy, you won't be partnerless too much longer.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Am I the only one to bring up how thin-skinned one gets? And I don't mean it in the figurative sense.
Yeah,
It seems like I'm permanently bleeding from somewhere on my shins. Hands are still holding out though.
First thing to go though was the joints. Specifically osteoarthritis in the big toes.
That negatively impacted the desire to do multiple consecutive days of climbing or multiple climbs in a day.
That of course accelerated already diminishing power.
Endurance?
Still have that left.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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My joints went first.
Ain't nuthin' wrong with the rest of those things.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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First of all, we all disintegrate in different ways, some of which are entirely unpredictable. You are at the mercy of your environment and your genetic heritage. Suck it up, pal!
I guess Rodger and I are the senior citizens here, being over 75 (I’ll be 78 in a few months).
One aspect that I don’t believe has been mentioned is balance. At the age of 70, after doing nothing but free-soloing and very light bouldering for the previous 20 years, I discovered my innate sense of balance had deteriorated – although visual balance had compensated. I still have a bit of that. But high up on a steep and convoluted wall sometimes one’s visual balance is inadequate, due to convolutions of the rock. I began to feel insecure . . . so I quit. After climbing since 1953 and having an existence apart from the sport I found it easy to just retire from the rock.
For those who think power and strength fade significantly, think again. Fred Archambault of New Hampshire is on video doing 20 pullups at age 89. If you’re interested you can find videos of me on my horizontal ladder at age 76, doing what I continue to do. True, not the strength and power at age 30, but you can continue to be physically strong if you persist in an exercise regimen. But don’t slack off too much after 70 or you’ll lose much of it. On the other hand, be realistic!
At 74 I made the mistake of doing a dynamic muscle-up, which I had discontinued many years previously. Result: torn rotator cuff. When diagnosed, it was discovered that I had no cartilage in either shoulder, so I had lost a lot of flexibility. But this was not due to climbing, rather to my still ring work 50 years prior, a sure way to destroy your shoulders. I was still doing a little ground-level traversing, but this put an end to that, which was OK.
The loss or continuance of desire may depend upon how much of your life you have invested in climbing. It may depend also on whether you have an addictive personality. Or who knows what else!
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go-B
climber
Cling to what is good!
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Strength to weight ratio for pullups!
Over use on joints, (without lighters)!
...Loss of Speed is first!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Another factor not mentioned or considered is RECOVERY TIME. How soon after a big day on the rocks can you go "do it again?" My Dolomite plan is a day of climbing , followed by a day off--or even two days off--just to let my body recover from the induced aches and pains to the muscles and joints.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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One aspect that I don’t believe has been mentioned is balance. Excellent point! My trainer added balance exercises to my workout last year. I kinda scoffed! Holy Hannibel, I couldn't believe the difference I felt the positive results especially skiing and hiking over rough terrain, talus and scree. I started ice skating lessons again last year and it's been great fun.
And agree with Rodger about recovery time. We've routinely been adding several extra days for road trips and back packing for "lay days". It's also made an incredible difference.
The last six months I've also added 4 to 5 nights of restorative yoga. It's all floor postures holding them up to 5 minutes each...major stretch through hips and core. Amazing the increased flexibility it's given me.
Aging has it's issues, but good preventative maintenance has helped me a lot
Susan
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
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How could I have forgotten to put recovery time on my list? It's probably my biggest issue.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Hey Jim,
I had a good day today after not climbing for 1 month. I've been very busy on a building project and have been climbing up and down ladders constantly, Apparently,it hasn't hurt my climbing, since I went out today and hiked 10 miles, and then went to Cathedral ledge and did 6 pitches of 5.9-10.
I would say my joints etc suck, but my desire is still un-diminished.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
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Completely "forgot" about memory.
Good job Steve!
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