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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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It was! I think this was the "Wheww" moment after I punched in the bolt and clipped in.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Hey Bob,
What are your thoughts on the comment above about ripping that flake off?
Do you remember it?
Think it will go without it?
Sweet photos of the FA!
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Wow, I really am stupid. I must have bagged one of the early tags on that route without even knowing it. All's I ultimately remember about that route was how scared I was.
Loved the picture of the pirate, steep sucker.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
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So the crux isn't above the ledge.... this is a good thing. Maybe I'll yo yo it with a friend sometime wearing padding for if/when we rip gear and go whipping.
Great pictures! Thanks BG! I didn't realize this was only a 20yr old climb. I've been looking at it for almost 15 with curiosity.
Great route name by the way. That route name adds to the appeal.
Josh
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Thanks Josh. The crux hooking sections are relatively safe, since the wall is very steep and the falls would be clean, plus you're far enough above Vampire Ledge that you shouldn't hit it.
The most dangerous part is an expanding flake right off the ledge that can't be avoided. You nail a little crack then stick a cam behind a dinner table sized flake. As I remember, when I weighted the cam, it opened up a little wider! If someone wants to add a bolt here to avoid it altogether, I'm cool with that.
Above the expanding flake is a bolt. From there you tension traverse left, nail some thin features (A3), then there's a bathook hole, a bolt, and a little more nailing up to the original 2-bolt belay. Since this pitch winds around you'll get serious rope drag if you continue past the 2-bolt belay, which is not what you want for the tenuous hooking that comes next.
The next pitch has 4 bolts, several bathook holes, and plenty of scary hooking. Looking at my notes, I used 2 Black Diamond Talon hooks (these work in the bathook holes), a logan skyhook, a pointed Leeper hook, and 2 Fishhooks. The key for me at the crux was balancing on multiple hooks at the same time. This pitch ends at the Vampire belay.
Pitch 3: Move left to a bolt, then tension traverse left (or 5.12) to another bolt, then traverse left across a ledge (5.10) to a 2-bolt belay at a small ledge.
Pitch 4: Incredible face climbing straight up past 5 bolts (5.11+, A1 or 5.13a) ends at the 2-bolt belay shared with Stairway to Heaven. This pitch was free climbed by Scott Cosgrove at 5.13a after rappelling down from the top, and was given the seperate name "Infinite Justice" when done free.
Pitch 5: One aid bolt leads to free climbing, joining the Vampire finish to the top (5.9)
The topo in the 2001 guidebook is pretty acurate. Bring a few knifeblades, a few small Leeper pitons, and couple of baby angles.
Go for it!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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This is a great thread. ST at it's best.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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(cool angle of the Vamp too)
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Aiding the Pirate, in winter, early 70's . Stoppers and a pin or two.
TY
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 16, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
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I could not see aiding from the third to the fourth bolt on the second pitch. Really wild up there but there are holds. Lots of loose small flakes breaking off, not sure what will be left.
What is the incomplete direct start pitch that would take you to Vampire ledge? A couple of bolts down low.
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