Happy Hooker at Tahquitz

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Messages 21 - 34 of total 34 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Sep 4, 2014 - 10:19am PT
love when a troll account becomes a real account
prrrdylady

climber
Sep 4, 2014 - 10:23am PT
love when a troll account becomes a real account

Me too!




Wait. What does that even mean?

BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 4, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
photo by mike borrello
photo by mike borrello
Credit: BG
Here's a photo from the first ascent, 20 years ago (in 1994). I'm hanging from a bolt placed at the end of the scary hooking section. This photo was taken from the hanging belay about 50 feet off Vampire ledge. The first bolt is a 3/8 incher that protects the tough hooking section. Although it doesn't look too far here, it's a distance of about 20 feet to the next bolt (that I'm hanging off).

So if you try it in one pitch, skipping the hanging belay, if you blow it just below the second bolt (that I'm hanging off here) I'm guessing you'd fall at least 60 feet (figuring 30% rope stretch) but wouldn't hit Vampire ledge.

I've talked to a few people that have taken the fall!



mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 4, 2014 - 03:43pm PT
Drilling that second bolt must have been.....*shudder*!
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 4, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
photo by mike borrello
photo by mike borrello
Credit: BG

It was! I think this was the "Wheww" moment after I punched in the bolt and clipped in.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 4, 2014 - 07:04pm PT
Hey Bob,

What are your thoughts on the comment above about ripping that flake off?

Do you remember it?

Think it will go without it?

Sweet photos of the FA!
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Sep 4, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
Wow, I really am stupid. I must have bagged one of the early tags on that route without even knowing it. All's I ultimately remember about that route was how scared I was.

Loved the picture of the pirate, steep sucker.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
So the crux isn't above the ledge.... this is a good thing. Maybe I'll yo yo it with a friend sometime wearing padding for if/when we rip gear and go whipping.

Great pictures! Thanks BG! I didn't realize this was only a 20yr old climb. I've been looking at it for almost 15 with curiosity.

Great route name by the way. That route name adds to the appeal.

Josh
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 4, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
Thanks Josh. The crux hooking sections are relatively safe, since the wall is very steep and the falls would be clean, plus you're far enough above Vampire Ledge that you shouldn't hit it.

The most dangerous part is an expanding flake right off the ledge that can't be avoided. You nail a little crack then stick a cam behind a dinner table sized flake. As I remember, when I weighted the cam, it opened up a little wider! If someone wants to add a bolt here to avoid it altogether, I'm cool with that.

Above the expanding flake is a bolt. From there you tension traverse left, nail some thin features (A3), then there's a bathook hole, a bolt, and a little more nailing up to the original 2-bolt belay. Since this pitch winds around you'll get serious rope drag if you continue past the 2-bolt belay, which is not what you want for the tenuous hooking that comes next.

The next pitch has 4 bolts, several bathook holes, and plenty of scary hooking. Looking at my notes, I used 2 Black Diamond Talon hooks (these work in the bathook holes), a logan skyhook, a pointed Leeper hook, and 2 Fishhooks. The key for me at the crux was balancing on multiple hooks at the same time. This pitch ends at the Vampire belay.

Pitch 3: Move left to a bolt, then tension traverse left (or 5.12) to another bolt, then traverse left across a ledge (5.10) to a 2-bolt belay at a small ledge.

Pitch 4: Incredible face climbing straight up past 5 bolts (5.11+, A1 or 5.13a) ends at the 2-bolt belay shared with Stairway to Heaven. This pitch was free climbed by Scott Cosgrove at 5.13a after rappelling down from the top, and was given the seperate name "Infinite Justice" when done free.

Pitch 5: One aid bolt leads to free climbing, joining the Vampire finish to the top (5.9)

The topo in the 2001 guidebook is pretty acurate. Bring a few knifeblades, a few small Leeper pitons, and couple of baby angles.

Go for it!




BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 6, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
Detail of pitches 1 and 2. Compared to this, the upper pitches are a p...
Detail of pitches 1 and 2. Compared to this, the upper pitches are a piece of cake.
Credit: BG
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 7, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
As "Big Wall" as Tahquitz gets.
As "Big Wall" as Tahquitz gets.
Credit: BG
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Sep 7, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
This is a great thread. ST at it's best.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Sep 7, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
(cool angle of the Vamp too)
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Sep 7, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
Credit: TYeary
Aiding the Pirate, in winter, early 70's . Stoppers and a pin or two.
TY
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