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climber
Cling to what is good!
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Sorry about that, you can add bolts to my routes! :)
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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purely an academic question but....
what if the first ascensionist solos a route? does that mean protection is forever forbidden?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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long fixed lines for the 5.9X route?
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scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
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I top rope it then troll on Supertopo. Mostly, I just climb trad routes and curse the FA team of badly bolted sports routes.
For a more sincere answer: It would depend if the route is top rope-able. My feeling is if it is, just top top rope it until you're woman enough to lead it. I do get pissed at sparsely bolted routs, but I also get pissed an any single pitch bolted route with easy access to the top. Dazed and Confused, though, now that's a route.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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I only have established two types of routes, under bolted and over bolted.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Define "bolt".
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Do what I always did. Climb the route anyway and don't fall where ever you are severely run out. Don't fall on the well protected crack sections either unless you put your gear in shitty, ensuring that you'll take a good screamer anyway before something finally holds.
What's going on?
Where am I ?
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Or use a top rope
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Personally, I whip out and masturbate furiously while cursing the FA-ists name as loud as possible to the wind.
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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The length/girth of a man's penis is measured by the distance between his FA bolts.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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And when that varies you must be a grow'er not a show'er.
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Dingus,
Too hot in summer, too suburban always.
My little peice of heaven is rural acreage near Sloughhouse, but close enough to the city where I can sell tree work.
If the crazies show up, I can wander the night buck naked in flip flops with a load of buckshot and nobody is the wiser.
Our view of desolation wilderness area is nicer.
Why do you ask?
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Following the FA's intention is.....
perfect............
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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oH sloughhouse, sloughouse, how does ur house slough
my hearts yearning for the sweet summer days i learned that were you
every year we'd pack the family car in Auburn and down the hill we flew
our faces grew smiles our hearts grew songs in anticipation of what we knew
no one on god's green planet grows golden ears as tasty as you grew
we loved ur jerky so much grandma used'ta put it in the stew
but that was looooong before anybody ever called me blue
one day i'll make the drive north that i can do
just to awake one more day refreshed with your smell of green amplified by the morning dew
that's what i crave not all those cows that just stand around and chew PU
and PU to this spew
To bolt or not to bolt,
the last few rtes i've helped put up. i had envisions of my daughter doing them someday. So my rtes tend to be safe. On the otherhand maybe if i had a son i would've spaced'em to try and scare the heck out of him? Then tell him to sack-up?
in Josh there's lots of 5.8's with one bolt put up 20yrs ago by 5.12 climbers that deserve a few more bolts and anchors. These rtes go years without seeing any action cause nobody wants to die or break a leg on 5.8.
Some of these rtes have really fun climbing on good rock and if they were safe it would take some pressure off other rtes.
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