Dealing with underbolting?

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Messages 21 - 35 of total 35 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
go-B

climber
Cling to what is good!
Sep 1, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
Sorry about that, you can add bolts to my routes! :)
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Sep 1, 2014 - 08:41pm PT
purely an academic question but....
what if the first ascensionist solos a route? does that mean protection is forever forbidden?
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Sep 1, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
what if the first ascensionist solos a route? does that mean protection is forever forbidden?

The last sentence of the Tuolumne ST's entry for Isostacy has always interested me for this reason: http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Tuolumne-Meadows-Dozier-Dome-Isostacy
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 1, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
long fixed lines for the 5.9X route?
scaredycat

Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
Sep 2, 2014 - 12:00am PT


I top rope it then troll on Supertopo. Mostly, I just climb trad routes and curse the FA team of badly bolted sports routes.

For a more sincere answer: It would depend if the route is top rope-able. My feeling is if it is, just top top rope it until you're woman enough to lead it. I do get pissed at sparsely bolted routs, but I also get pissed an any single pitch bolted route with easy access to the top. Dazed and Confused, though, now that's a route.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Sep 2, 2014 - 06:18am PT
I only have established two types of routes, under bolted and over bolted.
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
Sep 2, 2014 - 06:24am PT
Define "bolt".
Bushman

Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
Sep 2, 2014 - 07:56am PT
Do what I always did. Climb the route anyway and don't fall where ever you are severely run out. Don't fall on the well protected crack sections either unless you put your gear in shitty, ensuring that you'll take a good screamer anyway before something finally holds.
What's going on?
Where am I ?
Bushman

Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
Sep 2, 2014 - 07:57am PT
Or use a top rope
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Sep 2, 2014 - 10:42am PT
Personally, I whip out and masturbate furiously while cursing the FA-ists name as loud as possible to the wind.
coolrockclimberguy69

climber
Sep 2, 2014 - 10:50am PT
The length/girth of a man's penis is measured by the distance between his FA bolts.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Sep 2, 2014 - 11:18am PT
And when that varies you must be a grow'er not a show'er.
Bushman

Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
Sep 2, 2014 - 11:24am PT
Dingus,
Too hot in summer, too suburban always.
My little peice of heaven is rural acreage near Sloughhouse, but close enough to the city where I can sell tree work.
If the crazies show up, I can wander the night buck naked in flip flops with a load of buckshot and nobody is the wiser.
Our view of desolation wilderness area is nicer.
Why do you ask?
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Sep 2, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
Following the FA's intention is.....

perfect............

BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Sep 2, 2014 - 02:50pm PT

oH sloughhouse, sloughouse, how does ur house slough
my hearts yearning for the sweet summer days i learned that were you
every year we'd pack the family car in Auburn and down the hill we flew
our faces grew smiles our hearts grew songs in anticipation of what we knew
no one on god's green planet grows golden ears as tasty as you grew
we loved ur jerky so much grandma used'ta put it in the stew
but that was looooong before anybody ever called me blue
one day i'll make the drive north that i can do
just to awake one more day refreshed with your smell of green amplified by the morning dew
that's what i crave not all those cows that just stand around and chew PU
and PU to this spew


To bolt or not to bolt,
the last few rtes i've helped put up. i had envisions of my daughter doing them someday. So my rtes tend to be safe. On the otherhand maybe if i had a son i would've spaced'em to try and scare the heck out of him? Then tell him to sack-up?

in Josh there's lots of 5.8's with one bolt put up 20yrs ago by 5.12 climbers that deserve a few more bolts and anchors. These rtes go years without seeing any action cause nobody wants to die or break a leg on 5.8.
Some of these rtes have really fun climbing on good rock and if they were safe it would take some pressure off other rtes.

Messages 21 - 35 of total 35 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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