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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 31, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???
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thebravecowboy
climber
strugglin' to make time to climb
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
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gape
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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create loaded questions
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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Head point, bro.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:17pm PT
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Liquid courage before the run out lead.......
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
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Make April Fool's day threads about retrobolting the BY
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
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What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???
Laugh at people like you.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
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What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???
Do other routes if they don't like the runouts.
Don't clip the bolts and call the route over bolted otherwise.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
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In the NC community you respect the FA style, and you can sac up and climb the route or leave it alone. You never know... you might just find some natural gear that makes the route more reasonable. If none of that works and the climb so appealing that you absolutely have to lead the damn thing, you should talk to the FA party and ask how they managed the runout. If they weren't finding un-obvious pro via covert trickery, ask if they would consider adding a bolt. Don't let your feelings get hurt if they say no.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
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In the NC community you respect the FA style, and you can sac up and climb the route or leave it alone. You never know... you might just find some natural gear that makes the route more reasonable. If none of that works and the climb so appealing that you absolutely have to lead the damn thing, you should talk to the FA party and ask how they managed the runout. If they weren't finding un-obvious pro via covert trickery, ask if they would consider adding a bolt. Don't let your feelings get hurt if they say no.
Perfect.
I've always liked what I've heard about the North Carolina climbing community.
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grover
climber
Northern Mexico
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Less is more
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ruppell
climber
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:39pm PT
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Most climbers deal with it by rising to the challenge. Some cry about it on supertopo. Guess we know which one you are.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Aug 31, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
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Retro troll
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 31, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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Don't worry... be practical
It's easy to add another bolt.
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Aug 31, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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Except NC and a few places, they "murder the impossible".
Luckily there are lots of alpine routes and places where this is impossible, because the routes are too remote, too big, too serious, too pant filling for the posers to venture.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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If you put runouts on top roped, rap bolted routes, either your a cheap bastard or a duffus!
Help , I'm be sucked into a vortex of Trolls!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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A wise man never lets boy psychology interfere with his own safety. Bolt the SOB.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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In my "area" there are 500,000 routes to do. So if there's some I can't do, I don't climb them. I realize this is not true for every area.
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