Dealing with underbolting?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 31, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???
thebravecowboy

climber
strugglin' to make time to climb
Aug 31, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
gape
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Aug 31, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
create loaded questions
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Aug 31, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
Head point, bro.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 31, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
Credit: Todd Gordon
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 31, 2014 - 05:17pm PT
Credit: Todd Gordon

Liquid courage before the run out lead.......
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Aug 31, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
Make April Fool's day threads about retrobolting the BY
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Aug 31, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???

Laugh at people like you.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Aug 31, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
What does your community do about "route developers" that put in ridiculous runouts on climbs well within their ability because it makes them feel like badass climbers???

Do other routes if they don't like the runouts.

Don't clip the bolts and call the route over bolted otherwise.
Old&InTheWay

Trad climber
NC
Aug 31, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
In the NC community you respect the FA style, and you can sac up and climb the route or leave it alone. You never know... you might just find some natural gear that makes the route more reasonable. If none of that works and the climb so appealing that you absolutely have to lead the damn thing, you should talk to the FA party and ask how they managed the runout. If they weren't finding un-obvious pro via covert trickery, ask if they would consider adding a bolt. Don't let your feelings get hurt if they say no.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Aug 31, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
Retro bolt.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Aug 31, 2014 - 06:30pm PT

In the NC community you respect the FA style, and you can sac up and climb the route or leave it alone. You never know... you might just find some natural gear that makes the route more reasonable. If none of that works and the climb so appealing that you absolutely have to lead the damn thing, you should talk to the FA party and ask how they managed the runout. If they weren't finding un-obvious pro via covert trickery, ask if they would consider adding a bolt. Don't let your feelings get hurt if they say no.


Perfect.

I've always liked what I've heard about the North Carolina climbing community.
grover

climber
Northern Mexico
Aug 31, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
Less is more
ruppell

climber
Aug 31, 2014 - 06:39pm PT
Most climbers deal with it by rising to the challenge. Some cry about it on supertopo. Guess we know which one you are.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Aug 31, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
Retro troll
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Aug 31, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
Don't worry... be practical

It's easy to add another bolt.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Aug 31, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
Wes to the rescue with the answer!

http://rockclimbinglife.wordpress.com/2014/07/07/do-first-ascentionists-have-any-rights/
Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
Aug 31, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
Except NC and a few places, they "murder the impossible".
Luckily there are lots of alpine routes and places where this is impossible, because the routes are too remote, too big, too serious, too pant filling for the posers to venture.
Rolfr

Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Sep 1, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
If you put runouts on top roped, rap bolted routes, either your a cheap bastard or a duffus!
Help , I'm be sucked into a vortex of Trolls!
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Sep 1, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
A wise man never lets boy psychology interfere with his own safety. Bolt the SOB.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews