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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 30, 2014 - 06:19am PT
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This new topic is an outgrowth of the original Dolomites topic started by Drunkfox some time ago.
I'm just wrapping up week 2 of a European vacation, and battling the weather has been a major factor. In fact since arriving in Cortina a week ago, there's been only a small window of opportunity to climb with Enrico Maioni, a.k.a. drunkfox.
Since I'm still recovering from a back injury, my goals and expectations are diminished from other times, and we started climbing this past Wednesday 27 August 2014 in the Cinque Torri group, and specifically Torre Inglesi. We climbed the "Standard Route," which was established in 1901, and is now rated as 5.6 on Mountain Project. That grade is accurate, since the first 25 feet of the climb are polished by passage of uncountable hands and feet over 113 years. It was difficult enough for me to work hard on the dihedral section, and made the rest of the route a real pleasure. I had this route on my "hit list" last year, but falling temperatures and knee soreness on my final day then made me put it off until this year.
Here is a small collection of photos from Torre Inglesi:
Some climbing:
After Torre Inglesi, it was just a short stroll over to Torre Latina and the extremely easy "Normale" Route. Not very remarkable, but some additional climbing readily at hand.
There are some nice rappels from Torre Latina:
Although we managed to escape any precipitation, it was chilly enough in mid August to warrant wearing wind parkas and warmer clothing. After this we adjourned to the Rifugio Scoiattoli for a bite to eat and a beverage, followed by the chair lift down to the car park.
All in all, I was pleased by my first decent day of climbing this year, and the realization that my year-old ranch accident injuries are now behind me.
A great day with Enrico "drunkfox" Maioni!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 08:11am PT
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Hey Andrzej-
The beverage at the Rifugio was...what else...BEER!
Cheers,
Rodger
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 09:06am PT
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Way to go, man.
I can't tell you how much I envy your trip. I've wanted to climb in them mountains for years.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 09:49am PT
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So sorry to hear about your bad weather for climbing. Still it's such a beautiful place to be! Glad you are having a good time.
Phyl
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 09:54am PT
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This weather is really pretty sucky right now; it's been raining since dawn, and the forecast doesn't look good for the next 3-4 days. According to everyone I've spoken with--this has been the pattern all Summer. Oh well, I can always hope. I'll be relocating to Wolkenstein tomorrow, so maybe the weather there will be more cooperative?
Phyl-
Maybe it's my Karma at work, keeping me from going out and overdoing things too soon after getting my lower back fixed? ;)
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crankster
Trad climber
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Aug 30, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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Good stuff!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
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Sweeeet! Hope you get some more good days in. Shooting for something in the Sella Massif group?
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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Way to go. I'm afraid I was just too beat up to climb when I was in the Dolomites last October. Enjoy!
lars
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Aug 30, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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My experience from living there was that Europe is a wonderful place - except for the weather. At least south of the Alps, fewer people die from it.
Good thing you were planning a cultural trip as well.You'll have more of that when you move to the eastern Dolomites and can practice your German.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Aug 30, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
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Way to live the rich life! I'm jealous; have yet to climb out there. Looks beautiful and fun.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 30, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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Maybe it's my Karma at work, keeping me from going out and overdoing things too soon after getting my lower back fixed? ;)
Yup! ;) good to see you out on the rock brokedown!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 30, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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Looks so cool. Would love to get there some day.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Aug 30, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
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The Mites sure is nice. I sure wish I could climb over there some time.
Thanks.
BAd
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 30, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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Way to seize the moment gentlemen . . . climb on!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
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Wonderful, Rodger! You are awesome.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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You inspire me, Roger. Talk to me about the wine. Did you get to quaff any good ones?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
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Wayno-
Nothing at all exceptional--just the usual cheap schitt cabernets served as "house wines" these days. While I was in Germany I tried a new-to-me beer: "Tucher," brewed in Nuremburg. Not bad, but not quite enough hops for my taste.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
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This trip I'm planning only on very easy "rehab" climbs, nothing spectacular or truly difficult. My next goal, however, is the "Bergfuehrerweg" on the West Summit of the Torre Grande in the Cinque Torri; if that goes well, then "via del Buco" on the Piccola Lagazuoi, which is a 10 pitch, 5.5 route. Weather is definitely playing a role in determining what to attempt, since many of these climbs are truly "high mountain" adventures. So...I'm procrastinating about "what's next."
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2014 - 07:09am PT
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Update:
Tried again yesterday with Mauro Bernardi, and although was cold and rainy here in Wolkenstein, we thought we could get something done back towards Cortina at the Cinque Torri. Very optimistically we set off up the Groednerpass, looking for sunshine; alas, the Groednerjoch was sitting in a drizzling fogbank at only 3 degrees Celsius. Planning to try again Sunday, but things aren't looking very good in the interim.
Wayno-I bought some "Resirva" grade Montepulciano for dinner tomorrow night; I'll let you know how good it is. You too Moose!
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